wpapallo

Updated that last post. Accidentally hit submit before I was finished. Damn smartphones and my sausages don't get along.

I don't feel heckled. For the most part the info and threads I've crossed through on this forum has been very helpful.

Stubborn in the other hand, I am.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

Impressive fab work. Sweet manifold. Kitties awarded.

wpapallo

Thanks!

Still have a long way to go. I need to make a bunch of stuff for temperature control. Previous owners left no under tray or even fender liners it. The issue is easily seen at highway speeds. It runs warmer at 80mph (yay Montana highways!) than it does sitting and idling non stop. A front splitter and boxing off the rad/intercooler should help immensely.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

indeed, get proper ducting in there and you should be good to go.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

move your AIT bung to the intercooler outlet endtank...

use that, now empty, pre-tb hole for your boost source.

wpapallo

I could use some help understanding the logic of that.

This is how I see it. IAT temps will be negligible between the end tank and 1' of charge piping. The boost source for the IWG is already right there next to the IAT sensor. I suppose my logic for putting it there was so that the IWG was seeing actual pressure at the TB rather than at the compressor outlet. I also put the IAT sensor in that location because its sorta where it ended up. When it was equipped with ITB's I extended the harness to sit right above the passenger strut tower. So it kinda just worked out that way.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Because the IAT sensor will heat soak in the engine bay and make for false temp readings.

Cant tell if your boost source is post throttle body, but that is a bad place for it to be. Part throttle will cause overspinning the turbo. And with no BOV even more turbo go boom.

wpapallo

I can see the logic in that. But I don't think by that alone I would move the sensor to the end tank(its certainly not the easiest thing to get to). The coupler between the throttle and charge piping doesn't transfer much heat. And after a fair amount of road testing I'm not seeing the cold side charge piping getting heat soaked. It maintains a pretty constant temperature. I would think if anything is going to cause heat soak in the sensor its going to be the large tube of aluminum it is attached to. So if that isn't getting hot, then sensor shouldn't either. Seems like the charge piping will help equilibrate the sensor whether its warmer or colder. And I haven't even started on my heat shielding projects. To add to all of that, its an open air GM sensor. I don't see the filament getting heat soaked. And if it did it wouldn't take long for it to get back to normal.

I'm not doubting that I have nothing to lose by moving the sensor. But this is no hot weather application. Up here in the mountains it doesn't get real warm. The folks down south may have different experiences...

That being said, I believe that in my application it is in a perfectly fine and easily accessible location. If something changes or it becomes inefficient, Ill change the design.

Boost source for the IWG is pre throttle body. Literally right next to the IAT sensor.

aidandj

iTrader: (5)

Boost source is fine then.

It actually is worse in cold weather. The engine bay heatsoaks and it can cause issues. You don't have to listen to any of it, but this is all from a lot of peoples experience. I think I even took a video recently of heating up the outside of the sensor and seeing my AIT go up and the Megasquirt added fuel even though my actual intake air temp was cooler. Car went rich and started stumbling. Video is somewhere around.

wpapallo

I appreciate the knowledge, and am not knocking it. I honestly just don't have any drivabilty issues with it right now, its been on blocks for as long as I can remember(long MT winters), and I really just want to enjoy it. When the front gets ducting I might look into moving it.

If you are seeing higher IAT temps shouldn't the ecu be pulling fuel and be experiencing a lean condition? Warm air is less dense, requires less fuel sorta thing. I know under boost more fuel can be used to cool the engine, but I'm assuming you did this test at idle.

wpapallo

After doing a lot of logging attempting to recreate what the car may see during autox events I did start to notice heat soak. It never stuck around after moving, but temps were definitely rising. It would level out pretty quickly.

Anyway, this past weekend I built a splitter, which had me removing everything in the way of the intercooler. So while I was in there I pulled the intercooler and moved the iat sensor to the end tank. So far I haven't done any logs in the new position. But I can only assume what soak there was should now be gone.

I also picked up an EBC that I'll hopefully sick in sooner or later.

Onyxyth

iTrader: (2)

Just seeing this thread now, looks great. Lots of DIY still which is awesome. How much solder/electronics experience did you have going into the Megasquirt build? Did you use a particular build guide?

Full_Tilt_Boogie

iTrader: (1)

Hey, D-series buddy! Glad to see youre now on the other best car forum on the web.

wpapallo

Ive been soldering larger things for at least a few years. But we are talking 18-12ga wire. Nothing nearly as small as ecu parts. My first real ecu project was chipping a Honda P28 ecu. And that was a simple 28pin zif socket and a few other things. I am pretty mechanically inclined, and I would say I was psyching myself out about it and over complicating the task at hand. I don't know how comfortable you are with soldering, but there is an easy test.

Go to radio shack. Buy one of their smaller DIY Arduino kits ($20) and a cheap low amp soldering iron. And just follow the directions and see if you can set it up. If you can follow the directions and make it work, you've probably got what it takes. I literally chipped my first ecu and built my MS using a $15 pen style 20 watt radio shack soldering iron and some solder braid I got at a pawn shop.

Link to the Arduino kit.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/...ant=7188616645

Here are just a few of the links I used. Some stuff is outdated.
https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...n/diypnp-v1-5/
https://www.miataturbo.net/useful-sa...asquirt-13676/
Engine Management Megasquirt DIYPNP "How-To" - Step-By-Step Instructions - Miata Forumz - Mazda Miata Chat Forums

Basically everything you need you can find. Some of it takes some searching, but trust me the info is all out there to be had. The trick is using the right search words. Which you will figure out as you go.
Start with the diyautotune link. From there that first link can be broken down into almost all of what you will need. My issue was that I learn things differently probably than most. It can sometimes be difficult for me to conceptualize certain things. Which is why I was constantly looking for other writeups that explain the same thing, but in a way I understood. I would say I have an undiagnosed learning disability. But don't tell anyone...

You just have to believe that you can do it. But if your only reason for doing the DIY is because its cheaper I think you're gonna have some difficulties. I went the DIY route (with the ecu and everything else) to prove to myself and the nay sayers that I could do anything I set my mind to. I still cant pick up chicks though...

Thanks!

I believe every forum has something to offer though. Even though some of those forums are only good for a laugh... But where would I be without DSO.

Also, I made a splitter.

wpapallo

And, for the first time ever my tig welder made me money!!!
I put some reducers on the end of these ceramic coated Hookers.


Painted splitter pic with Hookers.

90civichhb

iTrader: (5)

That TIG finger, you watch Jody on Welding Tips and Tricks?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

You need a welding jacket unless you want lots of sun burn on your arms. I have been there, done that.

wpapallo

+

His channel is where I learned 90% of what I know.

I usually wear something with long sleeves. But yes, I should get a jacket.

wpapallo

So, for the first time ever racing with my local autox I finally won a pint glass. I was racing in XP, which the car is way underclassed for. But with the gutted interior and everything else I kinda get stuck in the catch all class. Not a big deal, and it will never be competitive. But my whole deal with the Miata is just to challenge myself on a mechanical level and have fun all the while. I would say I succeeded that goal and then some. And there is still a ton of stuff left that I want to mess with.

But anyway, heres the pint glass for taking first in Prepared today(this is the first time Ive ever received any sort of "trophy" in autox).


Said scratched GoPro lens.


And a lap from today. This wasn't one of my faster laps, seems I failed to record any of the decent laps. And don't mind the hood prop banging around in the trunk. It appears as though I accidentally left it in there after lunch.

YouTube Video:

wpapallo

Oh how our plans change...

First, its notable to mention that the thread title should no longer include "ITB". I sold my setup to someone else.
What happened was I experienced some detonation and cracked the top of a piston off. Long story short, I decided to rebuild it using an eBay rebuild kit with the intentions of saving up to go V8. Well again, plans change. I experienced some more detonation causing the same outcome. I tried listing a few things for sale. Like a full LSD swap, trans, motor for rebuild, for sale. Had no real interest in the matter. So I let the car sit for about 6 months.

Now, Ive started amassing parts to build my 1.8. I have...
Supertech 83.5 8.6:1 pistons, Wiseco XX rings, except through some ordering mistakes I was freely upgraded to 8.5:1 Wiseco's
ACL Race main/rod bearings
ARP main/head studs
eBay H-beam rods w/ 3/8 ARP2000 bolts
Gates water pump/ racing timing belt kit
BE oil pump gears
Balanced internals/rotating assy
balanced fly/clutch assy

Ive also got a trade in the works for a BP4W head. All I have to do is finish a couple extra sets of these fender braces Ive been making for my car. The trade kinda fell in my lap after posting a pic on a Facebook page. I cant afford to build the head this year, yet... so the plan is to run it but build it next winter.

Beings Im a diy type Im building my own rod balancing jig. So I will balance the piston/rod assy and weight match the bearings/rings. But Ill have my machinist do the crank/fly/clutch. Ill check the rods/pistons on his equipment to be sure its all good though.

Been working my *** off doing OT to support this winters build. Det monitoring will be a huge priority this go round... but Ill still tune it myself. Ill just have a lot more to lose this time, which is incentive to spend more time tuning it. Ive already got an electronic style det can setup built and plan to buy a knocklite style setup as well.

Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure...