Can you take a good 10 second composite log for me, and then post it up with a datalog and your current msq. Need to see 8 to 10 seconds of cranking. Thanks.

Oh, did you install the sequential injection module?

Yes, 3 and 4 from the sequential module goes to 4Z (Injector 4) and 4X (injector 2) .

I've left the garage now but I'll be back tomorrow to make a long cranking log (just log to file as these previous smaller ones I guess).

I have no better clue than to keep the msq as the one I posted, no idea what to alter. But a longer log will be made.
From cold or luke warm (idle a couple of minutes on the stock ECU)?

Any clue what the two red/white on 1J and 3P might be (knowledge beats tracing them in the harness)?

output #3 should go to 4Z and output #4 should go to 4X

And they do. Outputs 1,2,3,4 goes to 4W,4Y,4Z,4X which goes to injectors 1,3,4,2 as in the firing order.

Log of 10+ seconds of cranking ice cold (I hope this is what you meant?).
And the msq (which should be the same as before).

I have no clue what to try?
I'm not sure the Fuel pump is running, could it be that easy (but why does it then try to catch when warmer and why does it smell of fuel)?

I got some information from a local Mazda technician.
The 1J and 3P are connections to the Immobilizer. 1J seems to be the Immo input to the ECU and 3P goes to the Fuel Pump relay (3N is used when there is no Immo) so this must be the resulting output (no fuel pump activation if the Immo result doesn't look ok).

So could it be as easy as to move the "Fuel Pump" from 4N to 4P on the connector board? I'll sure try when I get to the garage after work :)

And the neutral switch i combined with the clutch switch on 1V (3I is unused)

Yepp, this should be it.

I did the same here too.

Composite log looks good.

Yes, the pin out on Euro Miatas with immobilizer seems to be different by only 1 pin--and that's the output that grounds the fuel pump relay.

Good to finally know! :)
I'll update the first post when it fires with as much info as I can (hopefully readable for the next one in line).
Maybe a small note in the DIYPNP 1.5 build instructions could be useful (but a small note for a few can make it confusing for the masses).

Hmm, how fast can I get away from work...

The clutch switch and neutral switch are also different.

That is how this looks on a Euro 99. I don't have the 99-00 US wiring digram, but I know the 94-95 are different in any case.

http://www.ingenieure-reichel.de/upload/MS/Clutch.jpg


We had this already here:

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...=clutch+switch

Maybe Joe can post this US spec pic again.

This is why I don't have my launch control activated. I think I have to change some things due to the different wiring here.

Just disconnecting the neutral switch from the transmission would make it very similar to the US diagram (separate switches going to ground attached at 1V and 3I). I'm not sure what the stock ECU does with the signal (if you want to switch back/forth).

Shouldn't be hard to figure out, and the way it's wired, launch would be armed either in neutral or with the clutch kicked in. Basically it would just add a neutral rev limiter as well as launch control--no downside there I guess. If you don't want the neutral rev limiter, just snip the wire before or after the neutral switch.

Does 1V go high or low when the clutch or neutral switch is closed?

1V goes low when either Neutral or clutch is depressed (just tested, not only according to diagram).
A newbie analysis of this means that a lower rev limit when 1V goes low would work as launch control (or flat shift in general I guess).

And of bigger importance, It STARTS and RUNS!!! :bowdown:
But the Idle is at 3500 rpm :D
Is that a fully open IAC maybe?

yes. need to find the workable range of the idle valve.

I could send you a base map if you like...

OK, if 1V goes low then there's no reason why the launch feature would not work without any additional mods. It would arm in neutral and/or when you hit the clutch.

Congrats on your first start. If you want to rule in/out the idle valve, unplug it and see what happens. The valve should close when unplugged, dropping idle. You may need to add throttle to make the car run.

That would be wonderful.
I copied your PWM build so the idle settings would be very similar.

Disconnecting IAC and it works as you could expect.
Things start to make sense now (eh, some parts that is :D).

I was even able to alter the LC-1 to 0-5V 10-20AFR, change the project properties and AFR table to get VE Analyze Live to do some Auto Tuning (while just reving slightly standing still).

Just screendumps of Idle settings working somewhat with the PWM board (set at 16 (or is it 128) as multiplier) would help a lot.

Just tried one thing, inverted the valve (100%=off)....
Presto, perfect idle... :)

I don't know if I flipped anything in the PWM board installation but I cant complain about stable 1030rpm idle standing still (for now).