The PWM board does require Inverted=Yes.

Dimitris

Went out for a Tuning run and it just WORKS :D
Light acceleration is already much smoother than Mazdas ECU :)

The only thing is that the USB-Serial disconnects very often when running on battery, but thats not MS or Tunerstudios fault.

Oh, well, next time to tune is Monday evening (away until then), but this was really good news.

Thanks for the title change.

Just got TunerStudio and a USB-Serial to work under Ubuntu, so I'll see if that setup works better while tuning (not going Off-Line from time to time as the Virtualbox XP, yes I know it's asking for trouble).

Absolutly nothing has gone wrong today, so I have to be very careful tomorrow :)

If you had filled out the location in your profile, we would have told you a week earlier :loser:.
We've all made that mistake :).

Thanks for the punt :)
I'm happy for every help I get and don't care if the problems are old (and solutions "hidden").

Good thing that switching ECUs is quite fast (but I got a blister on my thoumb :)) since it's in the passenger foot well, this experience would be possible even on a DD.

Once the first tuning run have been made, the manuals make much more sense. The second DIYPNP will be much easier to make :)

Congrats Niklas! Nice to hear you're up and running! I'll bet you've got the first Miata runing with DIYPNP in Sweden. I think you're experience is worth a lot and I know of at least one guy over at the Miata Club of Sweden who are struggling with his DIYPNP install (or did you buy his kit?).

Andreas

Why buy a struggling kit when you can get the complete experience by starting fresh (with the latest additions/options) :)
The learning experience is a big part of it for me.

More updates (it progress steadily but slowly):
1O is the place to regulate the Alternator (at least in my harness).
1V for Launch Control/Flat Shift works (electronically, but I require training to not lift while shifting)
Running AutoTune with a O2 that gets heat soaked is not the smartest idea (tuning against a fixed AFR of 11.0 from the LC-1 is plan dumb).

It needs a new fresh AutoTuning run tonight (it was raining last night) before I pack things up for a weekend of racing. I'll have the OEM ECU with me just in case the quick tune is too slow (feels a bit scary to trust my own soldering to give me performance and reliability...).

Awesome. Good job Nik. :)

After a decent tuning run (trying to hit all cells 5-7k at the freeway result in strange looks :)) it now starts to be really peppy and smooth.

Trying a couple of standing starts with Lauch/flatshift actually works now (when I don't miss the shifts). 2-3 gives a actual push forward that I don't feel with a classic shift.

The main problems I have had as a newbie is the hassle with the LC-1. Granted, I started without a copper heat-sink (now dual 0.7mm sheets) but the reprogramming and calibration is a mess.
After I overheated it yesterday it thought that the ratio between Lambda and AFR was off by a factor of 100 (. This was fixed by switching fuel back and forth (from gasoline to something else and then back).
And before I realized that using a switched power was a good idea (only active in run, not start) I got a bunch of recalibrations due to low power during crank.

During all of this the DIYPNP have done what it's supposed to do (when I moved Fuel Pump) and the same is true for TunerStudioMS :winner:

And the Alternator is pumping out 14.6V steadily and turning on the lights makes the idle drop a little and then pick up again :)

Ah, life is good :giggle:


Question for the future (i.e after the weekend):
Is there an advantage to rescale all tables to max out at 100Kpa since I run NA and will never add boost?
To me is sounds like it would give me a higher resolution (I only "use" 9 of the 16 rows in the fuel table currently)

Sure, you could rescale if you'd like. I don't think it would actually have an impact on how the car runs, but it won't hurt anything either. It will be a little bit more to tune. Maybe if you find time, there's another fella in Sweden who needs some help with his DIYPNP. I think you probably know who it is. ;)

But thats on a 95... The only thing I could manage at this point is to make a copy for a Euro 98-00 :)

But with enough time and correct wiring diagrams it should not be that hard (it's pretty few wires actually), when you have proper grounds, and all the sensors are working, and you connect the fuel pump to the correct pin :)

It's a bit different, but the concept is the same. The 95 is actually easier.

First raceweekend and everything worked :)

Seemed to get higher rpms at the end of the long straight so there might be some more power than with the OEM ECU with just 30minutes of highway tuning.
Launch control and flatshift was fun :) 1->2 and 3->4 at least (2->3 needs more care).

Scaling tables, Knock Sensor (figuring out if the DIYPNP works ok with the stock 99-00 sensor) and timing to suit 99 RON is up next (when I feel I have time)

Tables scaled but I have some questions
 

Attached is the scaled tables after a 1 hour Autotune run (30/30 normal).

I have no idea what the fat spot at 1500rpm 80% is supposed to mean?

And is there something bad when the axes are not the same in the three tables?
That AFR target is the same over 6krpm to save resolution down low I kind of understand, but should it be constant below 30%?

If I only run 99 RON, what parts of the ignition table can be advanced for more power?
This should of course only be done when I've verified the base timing (no, I have not done that yet :loser:)

Your AFR table looks quite rich to me for an N/A table.

To me too when I start to read a bit in the generic manuals ("12.5 at max torque and 13.0 at max power" as a guide).

I'll see what I can do and if it feels better (Need to start GPS-logging to measure progress now that the principles is working).

You need to to autotune more. Set to "Easy" if need be. Some cells (100kPa at 1400rpm) are hard to reach, so insist until you are ok.

Is this a more reasonable AFR target table (just guesswork)?

No idea to autotune a lot with "wrong" targets :)

I don't care that much about idle quality in traffic as I do about max power and fast response at the track. But autotuning for that is a bit tricky in vacation traffic...

Either this one or the previous one would work just fine.