Abe's NB-MSII Adapterboard/PnP
#243
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Huh, I didn't know your caps were all that bad. I'd run them on a scope and saw some issues at higher RPM, but the lab is a bit far from reality.
I do remember the smaller I went the happier I was, with the caps, which is why I have none. But I might throw those in to help with the one-buck-per-day I typically get.
Or, it's not as good as you thought. :-)
I do remember the smaller I went the happier I was, with the caps, which is why I have none. But I might throw those in to help with the one-buck-per-day I typically get.
Or, it's not as good as you thought. :-)
#244
well.
THe cold starts hicks are certainly gone.
But in cruise, the loss of sync drops remain. I'm not sure what's going on anymore. It's not as bad as before, but it certainly isn't just once everytime I drive. It happens occasionally, but way more than once. Im going to do a datalog and a tooth log to see whats going on, And ill make sure the distances of the crank sensor are in spec.
THe cold starts hicks are certainly gone.
But in cruise, the loss of sync drops remain. I'm not sure what's going on anymore. It's not as bad as before, but it certainly isn't just once everytime I drive. It happens occasionally, but way more than once. Im going to do a datalog and a tooth log to see whats going on, And ill make sure the distances of the crank sensor are in spec.
#245
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I think that was the logic that got me to leave the caps off. Taking some out is better, ergo, taking it all out is best. :-) Certainly check the sensor distance, I moved both sensors in and out before I went to the better circuit.
#248
Abe, I picked up one of Jeans PWM multiplier board so I can use a higher frequency without affecting the resolution. I want to see if this will be the trick to getting CL idle to work.
Where would i attach this to, i.e. which wires go where? Would I remove your transistor and put it inline between the circuit?
Where would i attach this to, i.e. which wires go where? Would I remove your transistor and put it inline between the circuit?
#249
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Oh, good question - it depends a lot on what it does. :-) Does it have a high power driver on it, or does it just provide the frequency?
I can't wait to see if it helps. I have my doubts, but if it works that totally rocks.
I can't wait to see if it helps. I have my doubts, but if it works that totally rocks.
#254
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his board should work (i.e. bridge over my part, and install his as normal) or you could take the (Ithink it's pin 1) and use that to run my board (i.e. replace the solder "bridge" on the MSV3 pcb with the input and the "base" of his board.)
I put a question into him, we'll see what he says.
I put a question into him, we'll see what he says.
#256
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yeah - he suggested pretty much what I was thinking, bridge pins 1 and 2 of the tip socket, and then you can drive my part with it. Or, pull my part out, jump over it, and use his board as he describes it, either will work.
If you DO use my part, you don't need to hook up +12V, maybe not analog ground, to his board.You can likely further optimize his R1 for my part, but I haven;t looked into that yet.
If you DO use my part, you don't need to hook up +12V, maybe not analog ground, to his board.You can likely further optimize his R1 for my part, but I haven;t looked into that yet.
#257
It seems like using your part might make of ease for the installation.
Alright, just for clarification..
So on Jean's board, I would just bridge pins 1 and 2?
For example,
Pins holes 1 and 2 if you're looking at the transistor in the front like this?
12V and ground arent needed anymore because you have 12V and grounds for your transistor already correct?
But i suppose you do still need that 5V reference.
Alright, just for clarification..
So on Jean's board, I would just bridge pins 1 and 2?
For example,
Pins holes 1 and 2 if you're looking at the transistor in the front like this?
12V and ground arent needed anymore because you have 12V and grounds for your transistor already correct?
But i suppose you do still need that 5V reference.