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Old 10-17-2009, 02:30 AM   #241
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Just started the car QUICK on a cold cold start.


NO HICKS! Its cured! Capacitors were the trick. I'm going out for a long drive to see if they are good as well on cruise.
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:34 AM   #242
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1:33am it says, for me. California is 10:33PM. Moment of truth Marc. What is it?
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Old 10-17-2009, 05:13 AM   #243
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Huh, I didn't know your caps were all that bad. I'd run them on a scope and saw some issues at higher RPM, but the lab is a bit far from reality.

I do remember the smaller I went the happier I was, with the caps, which is why I have none. But I might throw those in to help with the one-buck-per-day I typically get.

Or, it's not as good as you thought. :-)
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Old 10-17-2009, 06:20 AM   #244
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well.

THe cold starts hicks are certainly gone.

But in cruise, the loss of sync drops remain. I'm not sure what's going on anymore. It's not as bad as before, but it certainly isn't just once everytime I drive. It happens occasionally, but way more than once. Im going to do a datalog and a tooth log to see whats going on, And ill make sure the distances of the crank sensor are in spec.
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Old 10-17-2009, 02:39 PM   #245
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I think that was the logic that got me to leave the caps off. Taking some out is better, ergo, taking it all out is best. :-) Certainly check the sensor distance, I moved both sensors in and out before I went to the better circuit.
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Old 10-17-2009, 09:51 PM   #246
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Quote:
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I think that was the logic that got me to leave the caps off. Taking some out is better, ergo, taking it all out is best. :-) Certainly check the sensor distance, I moved both sensors in and out before I went to the better circuit.
Yea. It can't be that the crank sensor is on its way out because its a brand new part that I replaced just a year ago. Could be distance.
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:02 PM   #247
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Heh, that was what I meant by "out".
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:34 PM   #248
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Abe, I picked up one of Jeans PWM multiplier board so I can use a higher frequency without affecting the resolution. I want to see if this will be the trick to getting CL idle to work.

Where would i attach this to, i.e. which wires go where? Would I remove your transistor and put it inline between the circuit?
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Old 10-21-2009, 11:14 PM   #249
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Oh, good question - it depends a lot on what it does. :-) Does it have a high power driver on it, or does it just provide the frequency?

I can't wait to see if it helps. I have my doubts, but if it works that totally rocks.
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:44 AM   #250
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Quote:
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Where would i attach this to, i.e. which wires go where?
The instructions on Jean's site say there's an input, output and power. Can't be that hard?
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Old 10-22-2009, 05:24 AM   #251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f_devocht View Post
The instructions on Jean's site say there's an input, output and power. Can't be that hard?
Understand that if it was going on the MS board itself. The MS board's idle mod is entirely bypassed and it is on Abe's MSII board now. I just need to know the pinouts of the transistors E, B, and C, but I guess a simple google search would tell me.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:29 AM   #252
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now I'm curious. Why is there a seperate circuit? Or do you mean the tip120?
There's a tip122 on Jean's board, so more than power enough. IOW, hookup Abe's output to Jean's input (the boards that is )
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:31 AM   #253
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Abe's board doesnt use a specific TIP one, but i think it has similar properties, except for the fact that the one abe supplied is silicone rather than a metal back.
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Old 10-22-2009, 04:49 PM   #254
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his board should work (i.e. bridge over my part, and install his as normal) or you could take the (Ithink it's pin 1) and use that to run my board (i.e. replace the solder "bridge" on the MSV3 pcb with the input and the "base" of his board.)

I put a question into him, we'll see what he says.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:29 AM   #255
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Damn, I ordered it last week, and it still hasn't made it here. I guess stuff from canada takes a while to get here, but that's weird since I ordered something from regular mail from canada and it came in 3 days. Just ranting.

You get a reply back abe?
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:29 PM   #256
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yeah - he suggested pretty much what I was thinking, bridge pins 1 and 2 of the tip socket, and then you can drive my part with it. Or, pull my part out, jump over it, and use his board as he describes it, either will work.

If you DO use my part, you don't need to hook up +12V, maybe not analog ground, to his board.You can likely further optimize his R1 for my part, but I haven;t looked into that yet.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:44 PM   #257
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It seems like using your part might make of ease for the installation.

Alright, just for clarification..

So on Jean's board, I would just bridge pins 1 and 2?

For example,

Pins holes 1 and 2 if you're looking at the transistor in the front like this?

12V and ground arent needed anymore because you have 12V and grounds for your transistor already correct?

But i suppose you do still need that 5V reference.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:51 PM   #258
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yes, the left and the middle. I think you'd need the +5v to run his chip.
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Old 10-23-2009, 02:54 PM   #259
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Theres also an In and Out connection.

Would I put this on the MS board itself, removed the placed jumper on pins 2 and 3, and put pin 2 to In and pin 3 to out?

Sorry for the questions.
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Old 10-23-2009, 03:10 PM   #260
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Sounds right. Double check that (pin 3) works on the MS, i.e. that that pin goes to the DB37.
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