looking good.
It's about time you ate that banana though.

 

Heh. There should be a prize for that. I was wondering when I took the picture if anyone would comment on the bananas.

AbeFM : photos : First Build, Final Kit
Gallery of build pics, as well as final product. Looks like the kits are fine. I mislabeled one thing (Q3 vs Q2) and it looks like everyone gets an extra 1k resistor, but otherwise the kits are fine.

I've got two totally ready to go, and a third I could get out tomorrow with a tinsy bit more tricky soldering to get the jumper blocks on - but very minor.



It took me 2.5 hours to solder the thing together. It's mostly very straightforward, working off the list - I thought it easier than building the MS. I took a bunch of notes which I will put in a thread dedicated to building the board.



A few of the parts in these kits are better (higher temp range, physically smaller, screw terminals are heftier, etc) so everything looks pretty good. Technically, the AC switch and the alternator circuits could be on the wrong pin or something,

Here's the sin:


And you have to do this twice:
and install it rotated. But I came up with what I think are very straightforward directions:




And that's it. I think two kits are ready to go right now, so I can mail those out, and another one once I go home to get it. :-) I'll let everyone know what the shipping turns out to be. If anyone wants it rush shipped you'd better let me know really soon. Will be sending them to the addresses I got on paypal. :-)
-Abe.

 

Ok, that's 3 kits out today, one tomorrow, one already delivered. Certainly qualifies as a reasonable beta test. :-) Good luck to everyone who has them - and there are still a few more if people are interested. Going to start a install thread soon.

 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t38342/

Ok people, as you have issues, post them there. I'll try to host an MSQ or two there as well.

Remember:
AbeFM : photos : Build for Leo C. pics of MS build
AbeFM : photos : Kitting And Resistor Pics pics of resistors
AbeFM : photos : First Build, Final Kit pics of build process
AbeFM : photos : Schematics and Issues pics of mods

Will try to clean this all up later.

Anyway, for now, let's try to keep this thread about "where can I get one" and the other about "I have one now what do I do?"

 

I have this lingering fear that I left the jumper blocks out of one of the kits, no idea which. If yours shows up without them, let me know I'll get them right out. It IS a standard 0.100" pitch so they aren't too hard to find at a good electronics store if you're in such a hurry you can't wait.

What I'm saying is, open them as soon as they come and check! :-)

 

Success! My Megatune and the MS talks. I am just waiting on the vacuum line that I ordered and I am hoping to get this installed sometime next week.

 

Awesome abe, i Just got it in, everything looks great. Working all day today, so ill start building it up later tonight, and let you know how its going.

If it helps narrow down that uncanny feeling, i got my jumper pins in my package ^_^

EDIT: Ok, got a question.

I just recently saw frank's topic about setting the idle correctly to work at the OEM derived frequency (500Hz), and its deemed impossible with the current MSII-E code (maximum without seriously affecting duty cycle resolution is about 244Hz).

There is a board that is available (found here http://jbperf.com/pwm_converter/index.html, thanks kday) that allows one to multiply the frequency without having to change much settings to an unreasonable range.

Now, my question is, if I were to incorporate this into the MSII adapter board, would I interrupt the signal at the jumper points?

 

I haven't given it a through look yet, but at first pass, EVERY signal is set up to be interrupted at the jumper block.

The question is, this probably goes before the actual drive transistor, right? Let me see...

Ok, it has to go ahead of the drive transistor, actually, it goes in place of the drive transistor. I would probably put it where the big transistor on my board goes, i.e. the "input" would be the pad with the small trace going to it, and the "output" would be the one going to the jumper block. Can find this later. 5 volts should be easy to find (5V ref on the jumper block).

You might use the transistor I included instead of his tip, I think it might be better.

I've had a lot of advice to use something like this, but never actually tried it. I use a simple idle routine which works well, but yeah, the closed loop stuff works poorly so perhaps that will help.

Link to Frank's post?

 

Thanks for the input on the PWM multiplier.

So basically, the idle transistor on your board would have to be removed, correct?

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t38372/
MSx/Extra EFI • View topic - PWM IAC valve hum

I've recently began to frequent the msextra forums for more information regarding the idle problems and closed loop idle control, but as far as it seems, it's not viable without an increase in the working frequency. On the link I posted, it's explained thoroughly on what problems are associated with increasing frequency and loss of resolution in duty cycles.

 

Abe, I got the kit in today. A nice birthday gift. Yep you left out the jumper block in my kit.

-Raj

 

I posted ideas for cases in your installation thread, for those contemplating on how to mount the damn thing.

 

I'll drop one in the mail today if I can, tomorrow for sure. You can build the rest of it and do that last. You might not use it all anyway since you're on a different year car and you may cross wire some signals. If so, I'd cut it into two pin strips and install them across things which will want jumpers (like power)
-Abe.

 

Thanks for the link. Yes, you could do that in the case or not.

From Jean's site, it sounds like he's not yet sure what voltage to run the chip off of. I would say to run it off what I have on the board for now, and move to that once the jury is back with a verdict on this.

This is personal opinion here, but I'm pretty convinced that the MS-II's idle is a software issue and not a hardware. With warmup mode, I never have any problems. That said, if/when you get it, I'll make sure you know where to put it.

 

Great. I figured that it is not very important for my setup for now.

Thanks.
-Raj

 

Well its been a good week since I've gotten my board and I've just barely finished up the relay cable from the MS to the adapter board. The relay and box making has been taking my whole time really, so I'm hoping I can get this installed tonight.

Just some finishing shots.






I know, the box aint pretty (only so much you can do with a dremel) but its definitely going to work better than the board just hanging in the air, vulnerable to shorts.

I did the mods Abe set, in addition to the Joe inspired spark circuit, since it easy to do it with the soldering iron handy. It did require more work than just a pullup and a wire, but it should work great.

Mods done on MS:






Relay Cable:





Has anyone got their board up and running yet?

 

I have my adapterboard built. Relay cable is ready.

MSII still not completed. Will need to do the jumpers and test on the Jim Stim. IAT installed, WB02 0-5v ready to go.

Anyone come up with a MSQ to get running?

 

That is really nice MarcD. I have a similar case but its made of ABS Plastic. I am going to start working on it this weekend. Hopefully I can get my MS installed this weekend, if not the following week.

So you have a relay cable running? Does it work?

 

I made an MSQ from scratch, I'm going to try and see if the settings will work or not. As far as MAP settings, im still working on a base set.

It should work, it really isnt that complicated. Just a bunch of wires going to opposite ends on the connector. It took an afternoon to build it, most of the time was taken just to strip the wires and put heat shrink. I really wish i had my "ez-wire stripping" tool, but i lost it somewhere. It would have probably taken only an hour with it.

 

Be sure to enable the pull ups on the jimstim (+5V on ign, spare) or it won't see it - or, use my board, pull the appropriate jumpers and jump from the jimstim to the adapterboard. Email me and I'll send an MSQ, but from scratch it really better. I could send fuel/spark maps perhaps

 

Abe, I was going to post in your other post about the MSQ settings, but I'll post it here instead of interrupting that post.

I have some set guidelines for the MSQ, but there are a couple of things which some of us are still left in the dark, unless we trace each pin on the board back to the MS; What outputs that you connected the wires are for?

D14 ---> IGN = Spark A
D16 ---> IAC2B = Spark B
D15 ---> IAC1B = Tachometer
JS0 ---> SPR4 = Boost Control?
JS4 ---> SPR3 = Knock?
JS6 ---> SPR2 = ?
JS10 ---> IAC1A = Cam Sensor Input
JS11 ---> SPR1 = ?


Otherwise, I have some good settings I think im ready to flash to the computer. Out of town right now, gonna get on installing it as son as I get back.