Another person with idle woes
10-23-2013, 10:46 PM
#42
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Richened my VE like DIY asked(around 50-52 in idle range),
tightened my intake manifold to the head,
double checked vacuum lines,
temp installed fuel pressure gauge in place of cut line.
Still won't idle but does seem like it "tries".
Won't hold idle unless I'm +16% TPS but even then it's a give it take if it's going to or not. I did however actually get it to respond to varying RPMS and holding. Sounded horrible so I stopped.
Fuel pressure is great, 62psi. even though the gauge was leaking a bit (needed to put thread sealant in it)
So now that I've been basically taking to myself for almost a month.. does anyone have ANYTHING?
I was looking into the cam phasing with the 36-1 with single cam tooth setup, DIY says 120° is the optimal point when my cam tooth should align with the sensor(according to their guide about it)
from my composite logs and knowing my missing tooth is 70° BTDC, I can't tell if my cam tooth aligns with TDC or if it's already past the sensor at TDC since on the NB it's covered with my valve cover..
but judging by another person's post about their 36-1 trigger wheel and grind off their CAS until they had the smallest tooth. my trigger is too soon since his was just a little before his missing tooth.
DIY guide on 36-1 w/ Single cam tooth- http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm
Other MT.net Thread with persons composite log I talked about: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/fitted-36-1-trigger-wheel-firing-2-cylinders-68724/
tightened my intake manifold to the head,
double checked vacuum lines,
temp installed fuel pressure gauge in place of cut line.
Still won't idle but does seem like it "tries".
Won't hold idle unless I'm +16% TPS but even then it's a give it take if it's going to or not. I did however actually get it to respond to varying RPMS and holding. Sounded horrible so I stopped.
Fuel pressure is great, 62psi. even though the gauge was leaking a bit (needed to put thread sealant in it)
So now that I've been basically taking to myself for almost a month.. does anyone have ANYTHING?
I was looking into the cam phasing with the 36-1 with single cam tooth setup, DIY says 120° is the optimal point when my cam tooth should align with the sensor(according to their guide about it)
from my composite logs and knowing my missing tooth is 70° BTDC, I can't tell if my cam tooth aligns with TDC or if it's already past the sensor at TDC since on the NB it's covered with my valve cover..
but judging by another person's post about their 36-1 trigger wheel and grind off their CAS until they had the smallest tooth. my trigger is too soon since his was just a little before his missing tooth.
DIY guide on 36-1 w/ Single cam tooth- http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Dual.htm
Other MT.net Thread with persons composite log I talked about: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/fitted-36-1-trigger-wheel-firing-2-cylinders-68724/
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10-24-2013, 10:05 AM
#44
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It doesn't idle. I tried to help out but couldn't figure out why it wouldn't stay running.
It didn't help that I was unfamiliar with the MS2 idle settings. I was hoping there would be something in the log or msq that would stand out.
halp!
It didn't help that I was unfamiliar with the MS2 idle settings. I was hoping there would be something in the log or msq that would stand out.
halp!
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10-24-2013, 02:11 PM
#45
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Forget idle settings.
Just adjust the throttle to be slightly open and you should be able to run at 1500 rpm or so. Maybe it's 2000, but who cares. Then check all your settings: AFR, vacuum and timing (use a timing light) above all.
If AFRs read OK and timing reads OK, but it won't run, maybe an injector is busted. Or a spark plug, or the cams are off...
And turn off the EGO and all other corrections!
Just adjust the throttle to be slightly open and you should be able to run at 1500 rpm or so. Maybe it's 2000, but who cares. Then check all your settings: AFR, vacuum and timing (use a timing light) above all.
If AFRs read OK and timing reads OK, but it won't run, maybe an injector is busted. Or a spark plug, or the cams are off...
And turn off the EGO and all other corrections!
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10-24-2013, 03:02 PM
#46
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Forget idle settings.
Just adjust the throttle to be slightly open and you should be able to run at 1500 rpm or so. Maybe it's 2000, but who cares. Then check all your settings: AFR, vacuum and timing (use a timing light) above all.
If AFRs read OK and timing reads OK, but it won't run, maybe an injector is busted. Or a spark plug, or the cams are off...
And turn off the EGO and all other corrections!
Just adjust the throttle to be slightly open and you should be able to run at 1500 rpm or so. Maybe it's 2000, but who cares. Then check all your settings: AFR, vacuum and timing (use a timing light) above all.
If AFRs read OK and timing reads OK, but it won't run, maybe an injector is busted. Or a spark plug, or the cams are off...
And turn off the EGO and all other corrections!
Timing was spot on last I checked,
I had the injectors flow tested by boost labs (they're perfect) and nothing seemed bad when I installed them,
Spark plug were just changed actually I can check their condition tho,
Cams, The builder that put them in guaranteed they are right. (I do believe I have a picture of them at TDC in my fail build thread)
I'm thinking of swapping the stock crank wheel in and stock intake cam wheel(non ground down) to see if my ignition settings have to do with it or if the sequential settings are wrong and causing everything. (the car did run perfectly fine before on stock system and sequential injection) I haven't changed any settings fit sequential.
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10-24-2013, 03:35 PM
#48
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So I'm pretty your signal is oscillating. My guess would be that it's caused by some correction. Most likely EGO.
Turn all corrections off and try again.
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10-24-2013, 04:36 PM
#51
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Yes sir I'll give multiplying them, just seems weird VE starting at 50.
EGO and all other corrections are already disabled.
I've tested the AFR signal going into the MS (at the he D15 plug) and it doesn't oscillate like shown. The logged oscillation has happened with 2 different and "New or refurbished/ repaired" MS2PNP's
I even used pin 15(ecu ground) to ground the AFR gauge/controller and chassis together, it seemed to lessen the "ignition on but engine not running" oscillation it had.
I'm starting to fear that in the, 9 months now, the cars been sitting and when someone attacked a battery charger set for cranking to my battery while I loaded firmware and double checked everything when the motor was going to get it's first start,
it blew my laptop charger,
the cigarette lighter plug,
one of the LED bulbs in my dash went it, my tach didn't work (replaced LED bulbs with better ones and gauge cluster works),
and took out the AFR signal component in my first MS2pnp alonging with the charging circuit and idle circuits
that the cars harness got fucked and now it's messing with my MS. But all my fuses are fine.
EGO and all other corrections are already disabled.
I've tested the AFR signal going into the MS (at the he D15 plug) and it doesn't oscillate like shown. The logged oscillation has happened with 2 different and "New or refurbished/ repaired" MS2PNP's
I even used pin 15(ecu ground) to ground the AFR gauge/controller and chassis together, it seemed to lessen the "ignition on but engine not running" oscillation it had.
I'm starting to fear that in the, 9 months now, the cars been sitting and when someone attacked a battery charger set for cranking to my battery while I loaded firmware and double checked everything when the motor was going to get it's first start,
it blew my laptop charger,
the cigarette lighter plug,
one of the LED bulbs in my dash went it, my tach didn't work (replaced LED bulbs with better ones and gauge cluster works),
and took out the AFR signal component in my first MS2pnp alonging with the charging circuit and idle circuits
that the cars harness got fucked and now it's messing with my MS. But all my fuses are fine.
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10-24-2013, 05:27 PM
#54
Yeah I just checked because I was curious, and Reverant's basemap had the idle cells in at 60, so I'm guessing my low-50s is closer than your 36-42. Though of course VE is dependent on req_fuel so you could have had your req_fuel high enough that it idled fine at 36-42.
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10-24-2013, 05:48 PM
#55
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Idle cells from 35 to 65..
Holy. ****.
it idles!
it struggles trying to catch the RPMs if you rev it up a bit. but I live the fact it idles.
it seems to lose sync at high idle. buzzer comes on and what not, i have a video I'll post(if you have my Facebook l posted a video). I also gotta get a datalog if things, my laptop died.
Holy. ****.
it idles!
it struggles trying to catch the RPMs if you rev it up a bit. but I live the fact it idles.
it seems to lose sync at high idle. buzzer comes on and what not, i have a video I'll post(if you have my Facebook l posted a video). I also gotta get a datalog if things, my laptop died.
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10-24-2013, 07:21 PM
#57
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With WUE and ASE I idle at 14.3 ish but after ASE it seems to go to 15-16 is this weird? Nuge are your injectors ID1000s?
Other then that. My videos tell it better.
Cell phone video: (funnier)
GoPro Video:
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10-24-2013, 11:14 PM
#59
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I ended up with 67-70 in idle cells.
I actually went driving around. There isn't any problem now besides I can't blip the throttle to down shift. I have to hold TPS for a bit. And when I engine brake it goes completely lean ( over run fuel cut is off) my cells in the engine brake area are like 88-90 something. over all it was a good drive.
HOW EVER.
I forgot my wallet so I went back home to fetch it. Got ******* pulled over right in front of my place. Though I was going a bit over the speed limit(I think Speedo doesn't work) probably 30-33mph in a retarded 25mph zone. I didn't get a ticket for that.. he gave me a citation for not having my license.. while I wad on my way to GET my license. RIGHT THERE.. 50ft and a door and I would if had it.. but NOOOO.
Sorry for the rant. I just don't wanna make the trip to downtown Tampa to part like 5-8$ tu show them my license. Also having to explain it to my supervision (military life yo)
Also I discovered my front crank seal leaks like a bitch when the engine is running :(
So my problems are as lies, AFR signal, leaking crank front crank seal, and tune.
Shall I start another thread on my AFR signal problem? I think its an internal MS issue though.
I actually went driving around. There isn't any problem now besides I can't blip the throttle to down shift. I have to hold TPS for a bit. And when I engine brake it goes completely lean ( over run fuel cut is off) my cells in the engine brake area are like 88-90 something. over all it was a good drive.
HOW EVER.
I forgot my wallet so I went back home to fetch it. Got ******* pulled over right in front of my place. Though I was going a bit over the speed limit(I think Speedo doesn't work) probably 30-33mph in a retarded 25mph zone. I didn't get a ticket for that.. he gave me a citation for not having my license.. while I wad on my way to GET my license. RIGHT THERE.. 50ft and a door and I would if had it.. but NOOOO.
Sorry for the rant. I just don't wanna make the trip to downtown Tampa to part like 5-8$ tu show them my license. Also having to explain it to my supervision (military life yo)
Also I discovered my front crank seal leaks like a bitch when the engine is running :(
So my problems are as lies, AFR signal, leaking crank front crank seal, and tune.
Shall I start another thread on my AFR signal problem? I think its an internal MS issue though.
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10-24-2013, 11:16 PM
#60
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Sorry, I almost forgot!
Thank you everyone for your time in helping me with my setup, I greatly appreciate your time and vast knowledge.
Special thanks to sixshooter traveling down here to me during his busy day to give me a hand.
Thank you everyone for your time in helping me with my setup, I greatly appreciate your time and vast knowledge.
Special thanks to sixshooter traveling down here to me during his busy day to give me a hand.
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