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Blown D2 diode/microchip after battery blew up while drive

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Blown D2 diode/microchip after battery blew up while drive

 
Old 10-22-2018, 08:17 PM
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Default Blown D2 diode/microchip after battery blew up while drive

whats going on my fellow miatans, ive come in contact with a very cruel evil. ill explain. ive got a 00 miata that ive just had freshly boosted and tuned for a little less than a month now. doing pulls here and there but not

constantly. i have a gt2554r garrett with rx8 injectors, oilcooler for the oil pick up and im running 7 psi at the moment putting 210 to the wheel. anyways, im driving on the freeway yesterday and im getting this smell and

i dont know where its coming from. so i pull over and pop the hood. it smells like rotten eggs and fritos (as my girlfriend said LOL) but i just smelt rotten eggs. it was very feint in the engine bay but it got worse when we

hopped back in the cab. so were driving and i still smell it and its not getting any better, and then my windshield wipers go on the fritz and my airbag light starts flashing and then my rpms just cut out while im going 80

the highway... after the rpms cut, my cabin starts to fill with smoke (the rotten eggs smoke the green eggs and ham smoke) i get off the side of the freeway and pop the hood. i had very minimal smoke coming from

under the hood.the cabin smoke had disipated because my windows were down. i also had ticking sounds coming from under the dash (where MS is located but i couldnt tell if it was actually MS or not because of

traffic) and i also heard ticking from the fuse box under the hood but no fuses were popped. i popped the trunk and my battery is just smoking out the wazoo! battery acid all on the bottom of the metal "firewall". i had

no plastic plate on the bottom of my battery because i didnt have a battery tie down (i know this is where i fucked up). so i get a new battery from vatozone and re instal it. all lights work and i get a crank but no start:( i

get home finally, took MS out and tried to hook it up to tuner studio to see if it would connect but it didnt. it detected once and then i went to test the port and it failed. hasnt been detected since. so i took MS apart and

decided to see if i had done any damage to MS (i did:( ) aaaaannnnnnnddddddd i fried something. idk what it is but its gotta be something impotant because its not allowing any signal to it. on the side of MS i have the

1st and the 3rd red led light turn on while the key is in the ignition. i have pictures that i will post with this post of what i fried... my questions are; has this ever happened to anyone else? how can i go about fixing my

MS? if it is just a diode can i just solder it in myself? what if its a microprocessor?





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Old 10-23-2018, 08:40 AM
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anyone? i want to see if its an easy solder in or if i have to send it back to diyautotune.
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:46 AM
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sounds like the alternator controller didn't do its job and let the voltage get crazy -- i'd go directly to DIY with this one.
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
sounds like the alternator controller didn't do its job and let the voltage get crazy -- i'd go directly to DIY with this one.
damn... so is there any way to control voltage to the alternator through MS??? thats what i was thinking i would have to do :( can you tell if its just the diode or is it gonna have to be another motherboard?
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by lowandslowbecausenoturbo View Post
damn... so is there any way to control voltage to the alternator through MS???
Since you have an NB, the alternator voltage is already being controlled by the MS (unless you've installed some other hack to manage it.)

From the nature of the questions you're asking, I would recommend shipping the unit back to DIY for repair. I don't mean for that to sound insulting, merely pointing out that damage from over-voltage can be sinister and difficult to find, and I am guessing that you don't have a lot of experience in circuit-level troubleshooting.
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Old 10-23-2018, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Since you have an NB, the alternator voltage is already being controlled by the MS (unless you've installed some other hack to manage it.)

From the nature of the questions you're asking, I would recommend shipping the unit back to DIY for repair. I don't mean for that to sound insulting, merely pointing out that damage from over-voltage can be sinister and difficult to find, and I am guessing that you don't have a lot of experience in circuit-level troubleshooting.
thanks for the reply, but youre not suppose to tell me the truth! lmao jk what would a rebuild cost me? like ballpark you think???
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lowandslowbecausenoturbo View Post
thanks for the reply, but youre not suppose to tell me the truth! lmao jk what would a rebuild cost me? like ballpark you think???

[email protected]

or

678-261-8789
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Old 10-23-2018, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
[email protected]

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Old 10-23-2018, 09:14 PM
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7psi on a 2554 is only about 170whp max but you've got bigger problems than exaggerated horsepower.
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Old 11-06-2018, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
7psi on a 2554 is only about 170whp max but you've got bigger problems than exaggerated horsepower.
gt2854r sorry i had to look it up, thought it was a stock 240 turbo
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:32 PM
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Sounds like what happened to me. However I was trying to control the NB alternator on a NA chassis. The required wires were not on my car from factory and didn't know I needed to add additional wires to control the alternator charging.

Post #33 on my build thread https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...p-92987/page2/

I had to ship it back to DIYAutoTune and it cost me $137 to repair. Took less than a week to get it repaired and sent back to me.
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Old 11-09-2018, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by konmo View Post
Sounds like what happened to me. However I was trying to control the NB alternator on a NA chassis. The required wires were not on my car from factory and didn't know I needed to add additional wires to control the alternator charging.

Post #33 on my build thread https://www.miataturbo.net/build-thr...p-92987/page2/

I had to ship it back to DIYAutoTune and it cost me $137 to repair. Took less than a week to get it repaired and sent back to me.
damn man that does sounds pretty close to what happened to me. But I sent it in to auto tune and they replaced three diodes and the MicroSquirt module so itís coming back to me today, on my birthday🤘🏼 Happy birthday to me lol Iím pretty sure itís because I didnít have my battery tie down on and the plastic plate broke and let my battery bounce around (0 dampening because racecar lol) and I think it might have either grounded out to my frame or what I think really happened since it was bouncing around it cracked the cells inside and let them fuse together and boom. But thatís just me guessing, I have no affirmed reasoning

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Old 11-19-2018, 07:43 PM
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so to anyone following this or interested in what actually happened. im a noob to the bosted miata community (and i learned the hard way because i didnt do enough research) and its been one hell of a ride so far but i have learned so much. im glad to say my car is finally "done". (its a racecar, its never done) ive got it running at good temps with no leaks and a wopping 210 whp and 200 tq which im happy with right now. its a great feeling under the butt dyno (or when i beat full bolt on 350z"s lol) but my problem with the blown diodes was my alternator -_- i didnt do my research and didnt know that the nb alternators were regulated by the stock ecu. so two battery's later and i swapped the alternator for a 95 alternator and put a voltage gauge in to know at all times what my voltage is reading. so yea, dont use MS and a stock nb alternator, you will regret it lol
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