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Boost, Stumbling, No Power

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Old 03-09-2012, 08:30 AM
  #21  
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Can't see your vid. If the intake you're talking about is on the suction side of the compressor, then your theory is plausible. Can you swap it out and test?
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:24 PM
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It is on the suction side.
Straight off the compressor, 130' then straight pipe to filter.

I will try and figure out a way to lose the silicone.

Wish i had off thought of this a week or so ago..... UGHH!!

Will report back results..

Might take plug gap back to 0.030 also.
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Old 03-09-2012, 06:26 PM
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Yeah, run the biggest gap you can without engine miss.
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:27 PM
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Dwell dude
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Old 03-09-2012, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Dwell dude
??????

hah I'm lost
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Old 03-10-2012, 03:55 AM
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You CAN put something in the pipe.... like a pvc section to stop it sucking closed, but it MUST NOT be able to fit into the compressor, ive seen a brand new GT35 killed this way.

Dann
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dweezle
??????

hah I'm lost
Fae means ignition dwell. If it's not set correctly, you'll have a weak spark.

However, your approach is better. 9 times out of 10, it's messing up because you messed it up, not because something randomly failed. So, think back to when it was running right and try to remember what you did (wrong).
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:09 AM
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Originally Posted by nitrodann
You CAN put something in the pipe.... like a pvc section to stop it sucking closed, but it MUST NOT be able to fit into the compressor, ive seen a brand new GT35 killed this way.

Dann


Wow that is super fails!!!


Dude just replace the flex fail section with hard pvc pipe. For the intake, it is legit.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:55 PM
  #29  
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update..

Lost the silicone joiner but still had stumbling and No power.
Whacked a 2.5" Exhaust with a new Cat on and issue was still there.
For ***** and giggles we added some more fuel to the REQ FUEL, Issue got worse.
So we incrementally went down.
Was at 6.5 with my 450cc injectors.
Went 6.3, 6.0, was getting better and better, all the way to 5.6.
Now it pulls quite strong the whole way.
My LC1 Gauge reads alot leaner, still safe but am assuming the LC1 Sensor needs to be recalibrated.
Perhaps the calibration was lost and then when autotuning it just went to town FUEL wise and was over fuelling to death.

So will get the LC1 out and recalibrate and see how i go.
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Old 03-28-2012, 11:15 PM
  #30  
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so finally got a chance to pull the LC1 out and recalibrate.

Issue is obvious once i looked in LOGWORKS.
I am getting the wrong readings at the analogue gauge and Tunerstudios.



I am actually running at least 1.4 leaner than what TS and the gauge thinks.
Explains why it idles so well at 15.. oops.

So am now trying to get Tunerstudios and my G5 gauge to read what LOGWORKS does.
Attached Thumbnails Boost, Stumbling, No Power-2012-03-29102322.jpg  
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Old 03-29-2012, 01:18 AM
  #31  
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Picture says you are richer...

BUT - why do you trust one reading over 2 other readings? Just a thought...
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Old 11-14-2014, 03:17 PM
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I have very similar problem with my 1.8 turbo miata NA, so i don't create new topic.

The problem began when my car don't start at all one day, starter was spinning flywheel but engine don't evan cough, after one hour engine start whitout any problems, i don't do practicly anything, it was running at idle very well, but when i start moving it run very bad, idle goes teribbly low, when i put trottle down there was exhaust shooting.

After night engine run perflectly well and i drove around 40 miles without any issues.

Suddenly during driving engine stop and the same story, engine wont start for one hour. In this time i checked gauges in Tuner Studio and all was fine and i swaped a CAS from my friend car, it didn't start with the swaped CAS and my CAS works in friend's car.

After one hour engine started and stay in this condition to this day. Huge lack of power when boost is rasing above 0, acceleration is worst than standard N/A. it is running quite normal when i'm adding trottle gently in low range of RPMs (max 3000 RPM).

I changed also MapSensor from dual 400kPa, to singel 250kPa, couse i saw in log that boost is incredibly high in low RPM (120kPA in 2500RPM). After Map Sensor change log looks better, engine runs better at idle, at full trottle still have the same lack of power, but it don't shoot from ehaust so much.

Here is link for MS logs
http://www.pagadesign.net/logs.zip

I checked also fuel pump, i swaped it, but nothing changed. I checked also wiring for CAS and stuff like that, all good.

Have you any adviced?

Dweezle how you story with your problem end?
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Old 11-15-2014, 07:53 AM
  #33  
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Patryk, I looked at your logs. Something is definitely wrong. Is it actually going into boost or is your MAP reading off? It is going WAY rich under acceleration.

What part of the world are you from?
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Old 11-15-2014, 08:13 AM
  #34  
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I'm from Poland.

Please download again zip package.

I uploaded wrong file 'new map sensor driving.msl' yesterday, now it's correct.

Boost in this file seams real in my opinion.
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Old 11-16-2014, 06:21 AM
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At 1826.422 it goes super rich under acceleration, just like I saw on the other logs. That is not good at all.

Then it looks like it hits the overboost protection at 1826.562, which makes it the computer cut the fuel off. Do you have the overboost protection set for around 200kpa or 14-15psi?
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Old 11-16-2014, 08:18 AM
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yes i have overboost protection at 200kPa.

What could be a cause of this super rich moments?

Here is my msq file, from time when car was working properly. Now it has changed ASE and idle section in fuel and spark, but it doesn't matter in this case.

http://www.pagadesign.net/msq.zip
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