DIYPNP 94-95 No Start
#1
DIYPNP 94-95 No Start
I have read all the threads on no start and none of them seem to pertain to the problem I am having. I just installed my built MSII and I got through setting up the sensors but when I tried to start the car it just turns over. I have checked for spark and fuel and I don't think I have either. The MS isn't showing any rpm, p/w or duty cycle activity. The car will start with the oem ecu in place, although it has no maf and 550s so it doesn't run long. My guess is that it isn't getting an rpm signal so nothing else will work, but why? is there some ignition setting I am missing, I just have what ever was loaded on it when I got it. Any help would be awesome, the setup is 2000, 550s, walboro 255 and maf delete. I am a total newb, so if I have left out any important information just yell at me and I will add it. Also, on the ts default gauges at the bottom, during cranking, it says "not cranking".
Hey!
Jumped into this thread since I've got the exact same problem. Got the basemap for 94-95 miata installed and made alterations for wideband etc.
Tried diagnostics in Tuner studio, like suggested, but got no readings at all in any of the Loggers. getting fuel though, but what else?
Suggested experiments?
Regards///Magnus, sweden
#2
This may have nothing to do w/ not starting, but I just ran through an issue w/ my MS related to the RC550 injectors. I found out the hard way that MS does not like the RC550 low impedance injectors, so you may want to make sure you have high impedance injectors. It wouldn't cause a non-start, but it will cause poor performance and fuel control and possibly break your injectors if they are low-z.
#3
This may have nothing to do w/ not starting, but I just ran through an issue w/ my MS related to the RC550 injectors. I found out the hard way that MS does not like the RC550 low impedance injectors, so you may want to make sure you have high impedance injectors. It wouldn't cause a non-start, but it will cause poor performance and fuel control and possibly break your injectors if they are low-z.
Still running stock though since I havent gotten that far yet.
#4
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Hey!
Jumped into this thread since I've got the exact same problem. Got the basemap for 94-95 miata installed and made alterations for wideband etc.
Tried diagnostics in Tuner studio, like suggested, but got no readings at all in any of the Loggers. getting fuel though, but what else?
Suggested experiments?
Regards///Magnus, sweden
Jumped into this thread since I've got the exact same problem. Got the basemap for 94-95 miata installed and made alterations for wideband etc.
Tried diagnostics in Tuner studio, like suggested, but got no readings at all in any of the Loggers. getting fuel though, but what else?
Suggested experiments?
Regards///Magnus, sweden
If you're not reading RPM, then you shouldn't be getting any fuel. If you have no tach, but your injectors (or coils) are working, then you might have some major problems with your jumpers. I would re-verify every wire and go from there.
#5
k20's problem is very obvious that his ecu is not reading the cam signal.
If you're not reading rpm, then you shouldn't be getting any fuel. If you have no tach, but your injectors (or coils) are working, then you might have some major problems with your jumpers. I would re-verify every wire and go from there.
If you're not reading rpm, then you shouldn't be getting any fuel. If you have no tach, but your injectors (or coils) are working, then you might have some major problems with your jumpers. I would re-verify every wire and go from there.
Last edited by Miata140; 04-20-2010 at 02:38 PM.
#6
Forgot to attach the small OEM harness to coils after loading files again. The diagnostics look like this now.
Last edited by Miata140; 04-20-2010 at 02:49 PM. Reason: attachment missing
#8
Cannot get an attachment to stick. Tried various ways and it still doesnt work. Putting in a URL to an image, last chance.
http://kyrkbyn.zoomin.se/index.php?p=1&p1=123329&
But you got my Comp Log a few days ago didnt you? Find anything?
http://kyrkbyn.zoomin.se/index.php?p=1&p1=123329&
But you got my Comp Log a few days ago didnt you? Find anything?
#10
Ill try posting a pic of my board but i havent been succesful w any attachments today.
BTW cant remember anything in the soldering instruction about needing pullups. Thought they were optional if you wanted to add extras.
BTW cant remember anything in the soldering instruction about needing pullups. Thought they were optional if you wanted to add extras.
#11
One issue I was having with my DIYPNP was that the Tacho output was set to on. I turned it off and the car fired right up. Not saying that is your issue, but it did happen to me. I used the '94-'95 base map from DIYAUTOTUNE, by the way.
#13
Read thru the beginning of the assembly and it says - "Install all resistors in the locations marked on the board except R26 (the knock sensor trim pot), R39 (camshaft signal adjustment), and R1 through R5".
And then R1 -R5 never appeared again.
Now I found a reference under ignition control but then theyre talking about pos R22 and 51K.
It is a hellish thing to get thru your manuals and know which doc you should go to next. Very confusing if you dont know the special tech lingo and are very good in english.
I would not recommend DIY if youre not already a car tech freak AND extremely fluent in english AND used to that kind of programming.
Im 43 and am a technician w good computer skills so im not the unsharpest tool in the shed.
I know you get a solid product in the end with strong software and lots of tuning abilities but the Hours and guessing before that...
///Magnus
#14
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there's a pin conflict error with js10, a few circuits are set to use it, there should have been a warning message that told you this when you powered it on.
Those are the general board assembly instructions, but as you can see the pull ups are listed in the spreadsheet on how to assemble it for your specific application. They are required to get your tach signal.
#15
there's a pin conflict error with js10, a few circuits are set to use it, there should have been a warning message that told you this when you powered it on.
Those are the general board assembly instructions, but as you can see the pull ups are listed in the spreadsheet on how to assemble it for your specific application. They are required to get your tach signal.
Those are the general board assembly instructions, but as you can see the pull ups are listed in the spreadsheet on how to assemble it for your specific application. They are required to get your tach signal.
You can see what diagnostics looked like yesterday, before pullups, on my webpage
http://kyrkbyn.zoomin.se/A123329
since i can't attach it the doc.
Also, Pic of board in useless state. Anything missing?
///Magnus
#16
Im going to test mine as well to see what I read.
I also got a wiring diagram from a club member in sweden, to check if all signals go to correct position on ECU harness.
Does anyone have a layout of the OEM harness so I can match it with the el. diagram and ECU harness. its marked from 1A to 2Z on the el. diagram.
///Magnus, S Sweden
I also got a wiring diagram from a club member in sweden, to check if all signals go to correct position on ECU harness.
Does anyone have a layout of the OEM harness so I can match it with the el. diagram and ECU harness. its marked from 1A to 2Z on the el. diagram.
///Magnus, S Sweden
#17
It looks like you're also missing the IAC flyback diode. It wouldn't cause a no-start condition, but it might be something to fix while you're working on it. I made the same mistake when I built the DIYPNP unit for my 95, as it's easy to gloss over in the instructions.
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