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Old 04-18-2010, 12:51 PM   #1
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Default DIYPNP 94-95 No Start

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Originally Posted by K20 Mini View Post
I have read all the threads on no start and none of them seem to pertain to the problem I am having. I just installed my built MSII and I got through setting up the sensors but when I tried to start the car it just turns over. I have checked for spark and fuel and I don't think I have either. The MS isn't showing any rpm, p/w or duty cycle activity. The car will start with the oem ecu in place, although it has no maf and 550s so it doesn't run long. My guess is that it isn't getting an rpm signal so nothing else will work, but why? is there some ignition setting I am missing, I just have what ever was loaded on it when I got it. Any help would be awesome, the setup is 2000, 550s, walboro 255 and maf delete. I am a total newb, so if I have left out any important information just yell at me and I will add it. Also, on the ts default gauges at the bottom, during cranking, it says "not cranking".

Hey!

Jumped into this thread since I've got the exact same problem. Got the basemap for 94-95 miata installed and made alterations for wideband etc.
Tried diagnostics in Tuner studio, like suggested, but got no readings at all in any of the Loggers. getting fuel though, but what else?
Suggested experiments?

Regards///Magnus, sweden
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Old 04-20-2010, 08:30 AM   #2
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This may have nothing to do w/ not starting, but I just ran through an issue w/ my MS related to the RC550 injectors. I found out the hard way that MS does not like the RC550 low impedance injectors, so you may want to make sure you have high impedance injectors. It wouldn't cause a non-start, but it will cause poor performance and fuel control and possibly break your injectors if they are low-z.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:39 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by efe View Post
This may have nothing to do w/ not starting, but I just ran through an issue w/ my MS related to the RC550 injectors. I found out the hard way that MS does not like the RC550 low impedance injectors, so you may want to make sure you have high impedance injectors. It wouldn't cause a non-start, but it will cause poor performance and fuel control and possibly break your injectors if they are low-z.
Thanx for the tip!
Still running stock though since I havent gotten that far yet.
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Old 04-20-2010, 12:48 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Miata140 View Post
Hey!

Jumped into this thread since I've got the exact same problem. Got the basemap for 94-95 miata installed and made alterations for wideband etc.
Tried diagnostics in Tuner studio, like suggested, but got no readings at all in any of the Loggers. getting fuel though, but what else?
Suggested experiments?

Regards///Magnus, sweden
K20's problem is very obvious that his ECU is not reading the cam signal.

If you're not reading RPM, then you shouldn't be getting any fuel. If you have no tach, but your injectors (or coils) are working, then you might have some major problems with your jumpers. I would re-verify every wire and go from there.
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Old 04-20-2010, 01:51 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by ben View Post
k20's problem is very obvious that his ecu is not reading the cam signal.

If you're not reading rpm, then you shouldn't be getting any fuel. If you have no tach, but your injectors (or coils) are working, then you might have some major problems with your jumpers. I would re-verify every wire and go from there.
1

Last edited by Miata140; 04-20-2010 at 03:38 PM.
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Old 04-20-2010, 03:40 PM   #6
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Forgot to attach the small OEM harness to coils after loading files again. The diagnostics look like this now.

Last edited by Miata140; 04-20-2010 at 03:49 PM. Reason: attachment missing
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Old 04-20-2010, 03:41 PM   #7
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needs more attaching and less editing...
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Old 04-20-2010, 03:52 PM   #8
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needs more attaching and less editing...
Cannot get an attachment to stick. Tried various ways and it still doesnt work. Putting in a URL to an image, last chance.
http://kyrkbyn.zoomin.se/index.php?p=1&p1=123329&

But you got my Comp Log a few days ago didnt you? Find anything?
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Old 04-20-2010, 04:40 PM   #9
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I looked through your previous posts to see if you posted a picture of your board. Couldn't find any, but found this:

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Originally Posted by Miata140 View Post
Hi!

It's a DIYPNP.
Input mods is straight off the one from DIY Autotune, only forwarded O2 from harness to serial 18 pin. No pullups, no knock, no I/O, no H C drivers.
There's no way you'd get RPM without pullups at R3 ahd R4.
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:29 PM   #10
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Ill try posting a pic of my board but i havent been succesful w any attachments today.
BTW cant remember anything in the soldering instruction about needing pullups. Thought they were optional if you wanted to add extras.
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Old 04-20-2010, 05:55 PM   #11
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One issue I was having with my DIYPNP was that the Tacho output was set to on. I turned it off and the car fired right up. Not saying that is your issue, but it did happen to me. I used the '94-'95 base map from DIYAUTOTUNE, by the way.
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Old 04-20-2010, 06:05 PM   #12
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R3 and R4 pullups aren't really optional. That's why they're listed in the docs and specifically called out in the application guide.
Your car will not run without them.
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
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R3 and R4 pullups aren't really optional. That's why they're listed in the docs and specifically called out in the application guide.
Your car will not run without them.

Read thru the beginning of the assembly and it says - "Install all resistors in the locations marked on the board except R26 (the knock sensor trim pot), R39 (camshaft signal adjustment), and R1 through R5".
And then R1 -R5 never appeared again.
Now I found a reference under ignition control but then theyre talking about pos R22 and 51K.
It is a hellish thing to get thru your manuals and know which doc you should go to next. Very confusing if you dont know the special tech lingo and are very good in english.
I would not recommend DIY if youre not already a car tech freak AND extremely fluent in english AND used to that kind of programming.
Im 43 and am a technician w good computer skills so im not the unsharpest tool in the shed.

I know you get a solid product in the end with strong software and lots of tuning abilities but the Hours and guessing before that...

///Magnus
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Old 04-21-2010, 02:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MX5RACER View Post
One issue I was having with my DIYPNP was that the Tacho output was set to on. I turned it off and the car fired right up. Not saying that is your issue, but it did happen to me. I used the '94-'95 base map from DIYAUTOTUNE, by the way.

there's a pin conflict error with js10, a few circuits are set to use it, there should have been a warning message that told you this when you powered it on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Miata140 View Post
Read thru the beginning of the assembly and it says - "Install all resistors in the locations marked on the board except R26 (the knock sensor trim pot), R39 (camshaft signal adjustment), and R1 through R5".

Those are the general board assembly instructions, but as you can see the pull ups are listed in the spreadsheet on how to assemble it for your specific application. They are required to get your tach signal.
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
there's a pin conflict error with js10, a few circuits are set to use it, there should have been a warning message that told you this when you powered it on.




Those are the general board assembly instructions, but as you can see the pull ups are listed in the spreadsheet on how to assemble it for your specific application. They are required to get your tach signal.
Just put in R3, 4. Now i dont even receive one signal in diagnostics. Totally blank. This is SOOO messed up.

You can see what diagnostics looked like yesterday, before pullups, on my webpage
http://kyrkbyn.zoomin.se/A123329
since i can't attach it the doc.

Also, Pic of board in useless state. Anything missing?

///Magnus
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Old 04-24-2010, 07:27 PM   #16
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Im going to test mine as well to see what I read.

I also got a wiring diagram from a club member in sweden, to check if all signals go to correct position on ECU harness.
Does anyone have a layout of the OEM harness so I can match it with the el. diagram and ECU harness. its marked from 1A to 2Z on the el. diagram.

///Magnus, S Sweden
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:48 AM   #17
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It looks like you're also missing the IAC flyback diode. It wouldn't cause a no-start condition, but it might be something to fix while you're working on it. I made the same mistake when I built the DIYPNP unit for my 95, as it's easy to gloss over in the instructions.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:56 AM   #18
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Dates. Look at the dates.
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