miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I drove my car today and had trouble with the tacho output causing a conflict. I think it is because the base map has the tachoutput set to on for the 94+ cars. The 90-93 cars should have it turned off. Once I turned it off my dash tach stopped behaving erratically.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I connected my EBC and drove around today. I have the boost solenoid set to 26 HZ since diyautiotune.com says that operating range is 19.5-40Hz. While idling the thing sounded crazy. It was rapidly clicking. I'm assuming that this was the sound of the valve rapidly opening and closing. I connected one wire to the 12v on my db15 and the other to my boost control wire on the db15.

Anyone have a guess as to what is going on? I was running in open loop with all cells set to a duty cycle of 45%.

Otherwise, I noticed that the car is very smooth with the diypnp. I have some fuel tuning to do, but still have a couple of gremlins to take care of first.

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

When you flash a new firmware do you then have to recalibrate the TPS, IAT, and CLT values?

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

I'm about to wire in my ignition for sequential fire. Do I need to wire ign 1,2, 3, 4 to cyl 1, 2,3, 4 respectively, or do i need to wire the ign 1, 2,3,4 to the firing order?

Wire ign 1 to cylinder 1.
Wire ign 2 to cylinder 3.
Wire ign 3 to cylinder 4.
Wire ign 4 to cylinder 2.

Like the wiring for the sequential injection?

FoundSoul

iTrader: (5)

Yes and yes.

Re-flashing firmware will blank out everything, so you'll need to recall TPS, IAT, CLT. It's pretty easy to do with MS2/E though.

And yes you'll wire the coil outputs in firing order just as you outlined above. Output 1,2,3,4 is the order the ECU fires them in, it's up to you to wire them in the in the proper order for you engine, which is 1,3,4,2.

FoundSoul

iTrader: (5)

In your duty table, in the area around idle, try setting the DC to 0 so the valve won't be doing anything at all when you're sitting still. I think that will fix you up.

jerrah

I'm still having difficulty. Current piece of information:

With the VR2 wire disconnected from the adaptorboard I connected the DIYPNP to my car and got the following values:

OPTO Resistor: 12v
VR2 Resistor: 0v

I then connected the DIYPNP to a 12V plug pack (disconnected from the loom)
OPTO Resistor: 12v
VR2 Resistor: 4.88v

Thoughts?

Matt Cramer

I think your VREF may be shorted to ground. I've emailed you with more details.

jerrah

I think it may be sorted. Matt suggested it may be my TPS, disconnected the TPS and I'm getting 4.88v at VR2. I'll have to test to see if I get RPM after work.

jerrah

Got home from work and turned the key (TPS disconnected) and it started first go and idles.

It's a bit rough but it's beautiful to see it running!

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

In case anyone was interested in the COP harness wiring for individual spark. I found this post helpful:


Quote:
Originally Posted by bpt323 View Post
Turbotim, would you be so kind as to advise me on the following:
how to wire the tach signal with toyota COP's when running sequential(1 @ a time)
what diodes/reisistors/compacitors extra are needed & where.

thanks in advance
I wired the tach wire on each coil together to the factory tach wire. No diodes/resistors/capacitors needed.

I figured the factory tach wants to see 4 "pulses" each engine cycle.

jerrah

For convenience I'm thinking of wiring my wideband through the DB15 for power and earth.

Is there a flaw to this idea?

How have others got their wideband connected?

Zaphod

I connected mine like this - no problem

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Fuse the +12V out

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

The wideband requires a peak of 4 amps, make sure your wiring can handle it (before, in and after the MS).

Jim

miatauser884

iTrader: (11)

Need tuner studio ignition settings for running individual spark cops. I believe mine are correct, but I burned up my number four coil. It went south when I tried to start the car repeatedly with the ignition outputs wire incorrectly 1,2,3,4 ti cyl 1,2,3,4 respectively. I want to rule out incorrect tunerstudio settings I don't want to buy a new coil and have the same thing happen. Ignition outputs now wired correctly to firing order. Here are my current settings for attempting to run sequential spark and ignition. Here are my ignition and injection settings. Do you see any problems with them?



Thanks

jerrah

I've got it idling smoothly now but I've got two points of concern:

Warmup idle is around 1700rpm
regular idle is 1500rpm

And my wideband reports I'm arund 12.1 at idle.

The idle is smooth, but is there somehow of telling the unit that it's a little high?

jerrah

Set the Idle using the Idle screw to 950rpm.

AFR jumps to max when I touch the throttle then levels out to 12.1

FoundSoul

iTrader: (5)

You can tune your idle speed in either warmup mode or closed-loop mode. The map we posted for the 1999 has some good settings for the car we had here to test on, should be a good start for CLI on your car.

For the tip in lean spikes you need to tune acceleration enrichment.

More details on all of this are in the MS2/Extra manuals at MSx/Extra EFI • Index page

FoundSoul

iTrader: (5)

DJ-- you could probably turn your cranking dwell down a little on those COPs. Maybe 5ms. It's hard to imagine you cranked on them enough to burn one due to that but it's the only thing I see there that may have played a role. You could set your running dwell a little lower too until you know what it needs to be. Really need to scope the primary current to set that properly, or know the specs on the coils and do it mathematically. Alot of guys copy a buddy, who probably copied another buddy, who took a guess, but you might burn one...