DIYPNP- the do it yourself Plug-n-play EMS for your car - Page 7 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-15-2009, 03:50 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xitsam View Post
Here a shot of "my" DIYPNP fitting for Miata 1.6 MK1, 90-93

Stock Ignition, No MAF, VarTPS (Stock wiring), KnockSensor, LC-1, Boost-Controller
What are you doing with the fuel pump and PA0?
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Old 10-15-2009, 03:59 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Ah, cool then...

@Werner - looking nice. Already wired for sequential ignition?! Why did you wire all 4 ignition outputd as well as the ign1 and ign2?

Greets
I'm wondering why you wired S1 -S4 as well. I don't believe that you need those wired in. Even if you are going to run COPs I think you wire ign1, ign2, Aled, and wled.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:04 PM   #123
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Alright, I'm back for some help. I appear to be out of i/o circuits that I need for the fan relay.

PT6, PT7 sequential injection
PA0 boost control
wled, aled used for ignition

How should I wire my fan now that I'm out of on/off controls?
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:05 PM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I'm wondering why you wired S1 -S4 as well. I don't believe that you need those wired in. Even if you are going to run COPs I think you wire ign1, ign2, Aled, and wled.
Doesn't matter. Directly out from the drivers is more convenient to the DB15.

S1=IGN1
....
S4=WLED

Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
Alright, I'm back for some help. I appear to be out of i/o circuits that I need for the fan relay.

PT6, PT7 sequential injection
PA0 boost control
wled, aled used for ignition

How should I wire my fan now that I'm out of on/off controls?
To risk sounding like a broken record, you get the sequential card for injection. That frees up both those outputs.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:08 PM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
Doesn't matter. Directly out from the drivers is more convenient to the DB15.

S1=IGN1
....
S4=WLED


To risk sounding like a broken record, you get the sequential card for injection. That frees up both those outputs.
The sequential card still uses PT6 and PT7 it's connected to them through the sequential plug in. I emailed Matt about this.

"PT6 and PT7 are connected to the sequential board through the 10 pin
>> header. You just install the header and the 2 output wires, then set it
>> up in the software.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Matt Cramer"
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:13 PM   #126
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wheellll then, that's a problem. I have PT6 to cooling fan and PT7 to VICS
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:14 PM   #127
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In case this helps anyone, or anyone can help me.
Attached Files
File Type: xls usdm-mazda-miata-1991-B6-mt.xls (122.0 KB, 56 views)
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:17 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
wheellll then, that's a problem. I have PT6 to cooling fan and PT7 to VICS
I may have to get rid sequential spark. It seems this would be a better option than removing sequential injection.

There is one more output that is yet to be determined with new firmware. Maybe we should request that this be another on/off output. Looks like we need another module that will supply more outputs
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:20 PM   #129
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I personally would rather have individual spark than fuel.

There is a I/O board coming out soon. That would give the ability to get crazy with stuff like dual stage cooling fans n junk.
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Old 10-15-2009, 04:23 PM   #130
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Well motherf*****. When's the new board supposed to come out? I just spent $38 bucks for sequential injection not realizing it was going to screw up my setup.

If I had known this, I would have waited to buy the sequentail chip until the next i/o plugin came out.

I'm aggravated, I'm going to get a beverage.
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Old 10-15-2009, 07:23 PM   #131
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You could give up the fan output and use a 1.6 thermosensor to activate the fan. Alternatively you could modify a Velleman mk138 to the desired temp range. Here's the schematic.
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Old 10-15-2009, 11:22 PM   #132
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I wonder if I could use the thermosensor with the clutch switch so that the fan would only come on when the clutch was pressed. Maybe a main switch that I could turn on and off so that it wouldn't come on when the car was being started. Of course I plan on bypassing the clutch switch on startup anyway.

I really just need a temporary solution until the i/o add on comes out.
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Old 10-16-2009, 03:05 AM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
Ah, cool then...

@Werner - looking nice. Already wired for sequential ignition?! Why did you wire all 4 ignition outputd as well as the ign1 and ign2?

Greets
I just wired them because, we will make that easy to use in the future, just setting the next 2 jumpers 3 and 4.
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Old 10-16-2009, 03:38 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xitsam View Post
I just wired them because, we will make that easy to use in the future, just setting the next 2 jumpers 3 and 4.
But I think you don't have to jumper S1-S4 AND IGN1&IGN2 S1/S2 should be the same as IGN1/IGN2.

And Ben is right, why did you wire the fuelpump to PA0? Fuelpump goes to wherever the fuelpump is on your model at the adapter board.

@all:
How do you wire IGN1/IGN2 for wasted spark with this tiny holes in the main board. Jumper at the adapter board?

Greets
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:22 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
What are you doing with the fuel pump and PA0?
Nothing, it just crossing over together

PA0 goes to 1R

and

Fuel Pump to DP15 Pin 15
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:29 AM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post
But I think you don't have to jumper S1-S4 AND IGN1&IGN2 S1/S2 should be the same as IGN1/IGN2.

Greets
Maybe it is the same, but for a Plug&Play solution it is easyer to use the DP15 pins, simply wire them up to the Coils, otherwise you have to lead of the correct wires from the stock wires.

And i think, if Jonny goes coil, he also make sequential inj as well, so the wiring gose at once.

I just think what is the cleanest solution, not the easyest.
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:31 AM   #137
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zaphod View Post

@all:
How do you wire IGN1/IGN2 for wasted spark with this tiny holes in the main board. Jumper at the adapter board?

Greets
Hm? Stock?
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Old 10-16-2009, 08:45 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xitsam View Post
Nothing, it just crossing over together

PA0 goes to 1R

and

Fuel Pump to DP15 Pin 15
More specifically, what are you doing with them? Why does FP goto the DB15? Why do you have a processor output connected directly to something?
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:01 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
More specifically, what are you doing with them? Why does FP goto the DB15? Why do you have a processor output connected directly to something?
I just follow the hints you wrote here..

Fuelpump is switching the ground, because the 90-93 dosent switch with the ECU (using MASS AIR FLOW).
Corrected in the new manual from Matt posted here in the forum.

And the PA0 i asked:

Quote:
Originally Posted by xitsam
if i want to solder the BOOST-Controller PINOUTS to the DB15, which PINS have i to brigde to the DB15? IN or OUT?

and djp0623 wrote:
If I remember correctly I jumped PA0 to the IN and the Out I jumped to pin 15 on the DB15. I believe the IN will become more apparent with use of the tunerstudio software. I assume that PA0 will be the value you change to define the max psi/kpa that you want to run.

And this is, what i am doing with it.
If i am wrong, please correct me, i dont know what is realy right, spezialy for the boost-controler thing.
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Old 10-16-2009, 09:07 AM   #140
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I think I know the answer for the fuelpump - as the 09-93 Miata doesn't seem to have a fuel-pump wire to the ECU so you have to wire it separately via the MAF connector.

About PA0:

You have to wire from PA0 to BOOST (at the main board) IN and from BOOST OUT to the DB15.


Greets
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