aeathb

iTrader: (1)

I tried disabling EGO control, along with using the single WB02 setting, both with the same result. I can however give the specific number everything goes downhill. 175 degrees is the magic number. As long as the CLT reports back under 175 everything is fine, at and above is the issue.

southernmx5

iTrader: (1)

When CLT >= 175 F the cpu sends a self destruct signal to your car by PA0.

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

I tried disabling Pa0 and I found that problem went away, thus it was safe to assume there was a jumpering issue. I stumbled upon someone else’s jumper diagram as provided by Matt at DIYautotune. This is what I changed mine to:

AC:
1p -> input 1 in
input 1 out -> pe1
PA0 -> relay 2 in
Relay 2 out -> 1S
1S -> 1I
2.2k resistor in (R14?)

Radiator fan:
WLD -> Relay 1 in
Relay 1 out -> 1R

Clutch Switch:
Clutch Switch -> DB15 connector 11
DB 15 connector 11 -> input 2 in
input 1 out -> FLX

After doing this, I reflashed my ECU because I wanted a fresh start (probably no point in doing this...) and these are the problems I am now having.
1) My AC compressor is always on, whether or not the AC button is pressed, or the fan is in the off position. As soon as I turn the fan on (with the AC button in the off position) cold air comes right out. The same result is with the button pressed on. This doesn't make sense to me....
2) My Tachometer goes to 0 RPM when I step hard on the throttle with Tacho Out setting set to off. If I turn Tacho Out setting on, the RPM gauge moves very slowly, then occasionally oscillates randomly from 2k-6k.
3) When the car is sitting warm at idle, if I go to start it, it will start strong, try to stay alive, then die. I must wait for the car to cool before it will start well on it's own. If I give it some gas to stay alive long enough to read AFR's, it will be at 16-17; however, if I start the car from a cold start and let it warm up, it will idle right where I want it to ~14.7.

Attached is my current tune file (I know the whole VE table is not tuned, but the bottom end/idle looks good enough).

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

I tried opening your tune under a new project with your current firmware that was on your .msq and got so many errors I didnt feel like reading them. Send me all the details of your build and Ill try to get you a decent start up map while Im at work. Then we can go from there. Otherwise I feel like were pissing in the wind. Also reflash to the newest firmware again. Its freakin **** and BEER.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Ok try this map and use these jumpers for AC

Add 2.2k resister to r14

1Q>Input 1 IN
Input 1 OUT>PE1
PA0> Relay 1 IN
Relay 1 Out > 1J and 4S.

Post results. This map is intended to fix your output settings and correct the AC Idle up setting you had before as well as turn off EGO control until you get a more developed tune. IMO I never use EGO control. Never really had enough reason to turn it on

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

Are you sure about 1Q, 1J, and 4S? Not trying to doubt you, but judging by DIYautotunes page these aren't the AC/Rad fan I/O's (DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata). If your sure, I'll go change that!

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I meant 1P, 1S & 1l. I was helping another person with a 95 earlier.

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

I already have this jumper config (going through relay 2 instead), so I assume I can just plug and chug with the tune? Or should I disconnect the WLD -> relay 1 in, relay 1 out -> 1R? (Radiator fan circuit)

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

I really dont think it should matter. you should be good to go then. Nothing in it will hurt your car. Im using the same ign, fuel and sequential settings you already had. Try this map. It should work out as long as your wiring is as you said.

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

So tried the tune and a few odd things are happening:
1. Once the car warmed up, I think I hear some ping at idle (I didn't try driving it). AFR's read ~14 and timing is only around 15-17.
2. My AC compressor idle up is not working properly, and on top of that, it appears that the compressor is still "always engaged." No matter which way I turn the AC button, or fan position, there is no change in idle and the air is always ice cold (it's ~70 degrees here ambient temp). I tried searching, but everyone with a similar problem seems to have the opposite where the AC comp will not engage.....
3. It didn't look like VICS was configured, and why isn't coolant based on CLT temp? Also, why shouldn't I be running CL idle?
*edit* here is the log file.

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

Weird. the reason why I took of Closed loop is to eliminate your idle fluctuations or eliminate closed loop being the case. Closed loop idle is not something you tune tell the very end. I havent even fully perfected my closed loop idle yet just because I am still playing with hot restart enrichment. Once thats done than Ill tighten up closed loop a little more. As for the AC Compressor I think you have something going on with your jumpers. Could you post HQ pictures f the front and back of your board. Maybe at this point you may even want to roll back your firmware since you said it was fine before. I wonder if when you update your msq after updateing your firmware if you didnt update it correctly. Could you also post your msq from when the car was running correctly?

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

The car has always been running on 3.3.1, and it hasn't ever been running correctly. The thermoresistors have always read off, and the AC idle up has never worked properly. I just went for a drive, and it actually seemed to be working pretty well. The Tach read properly, the AFR's stayed pretty constant, and the radiator kicked in (I changed it to turn on >175. The only real problem I am having right now is the AC, and to my understanding, the ECU does not control when the AC turns on and off. The compressor kick in right at start all the time, then never turns off. Also, AC idle up is not working, so I assume it is not getting a signal. I could post up pics of the jumpers, but I think there is too much going on to see anything; it's hard enough holding it in my hands. Do you/anyone know how the AC clutch decides to kick in and how it send a signal to the ECU? I'm thinking there may be an actual hardware problem....

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so as I was buzzing out the circuit, I found what I had and was recommended can not work. First off, that radiator circuit will not work. WLD is a relay, so putting it in series with relay 1 will never control 1R as 1R never get's input voltage. 1R must go directly to WLD. Problem 1 solved. Problem 2: 1P needs to control 1S and 1I, but 1P also needs to go to PE1 to tell the ECU when to idle up. So here is my issue; how do I connect 1P to the IS-1I circuit and relay 2? drawing for reference, please pardon MSpaint. What goes where? And what does R14 do?

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

Okay, how about this? This way the compressor relay kicks on correct and I also get to keep pe1 for AC idle up. Do I need to remove R14?

ScottyP3821

iTrader: (2)

PM Sent

aeathb

iTrader: (1)

So after looking into this further and playing with the multimeter, I found the last schematic was wrong too. Here is the correct diagram. This appears to be working, I will update with any issues.