Heckfire, Huck! 30v's confounded my MS
04-28-2010, 12:31 PM
#21
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I just had it laying around. Lower mileage than my 97 alternator. Plug is the same, ground is the same, had no idea 01+ use an external voltage regulator tho lol.
btw, thx brain
btw, thx brain
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04-28-2010, 12:58 PM
#22
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You can tell what kind of part something is by the reference designator.
Anything beginning in Q is a transistor (which includes FETs). If it starts with U, it's an integrated circuit (note that U5, the 5v regulator, is technically an IC, even though externally it only has three pins and it looks like a big transistor.) Parts starting with D are diodes (including LEDs), R for resistors, C for capacitors, Y for crystals, K for relays, etc.
You know, this is an excellent question. I can't for the life of me seem to find a BOM for the 3.57 PCA.
Some sleuthing is in order...
D12 is a Zener diode, which in the 3.0 BOM is a 1N4749. 22v, 1 watt, and from the pictures it looks to me like it's in a DO-214 package on the 3.57 board. I'm going to call it an SMA4748. Twenty-one cents from Mouser: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Taiw...GrvkMHLekDw%3d
MOV1... Well, it's obviously a Metal Oxide Varistor, a kind of Transient Voltage Suppressor. Varistors are interesting little devices which are typically used as surge protectors. Those power strips you buy for lightning protection contain them.
This one's proving difficult. This one is close, but I think it's a little larger than the one on the 3.57, and it has a lower surge energy rating than the one on the 3.0 board: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Litt...c3Hpfx7tgkI%3d
It'll definitely work if you can't find something closer.
This one's another possibility, again, it's close but not exact. Has a very low surge energy rating, and is physically a tad smaller than the stock one: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=495-2593-1-ND
Fortunately, the MOV is not at all a mission critical part. It's job is to try and protect the rest of the board from transient overvoltage conditions, which is exactly what you did to yours. (And obviously, the MOV failed to do its job there, because you exposed the board to a sustained overvoltage, not just a quick surge.)
Anything beginning in Q is a transistor (which includes FETs). If it starts with U, it's an integrated circuit (note that U5, the 5v regulator, is technically an IC, even though externally it only has three pins and it looks like a big transistor.) Parts starting with D are diodes (including LEDs), R for resistors, C for capacitors, Y for crystals, K for relays, etc.
If so which ones are they and can I buy them from somewhere?
Some sleuthing is in order...
D12 is a Zener diode, which in the 3.0 BOM is a 1N4749. 22v, 1 watt, and from the pictures it looks to me like it's in a DO-214 package on the 3.57 board. I'm going to call it an SMA4748. Twenty-one cents from Mouser: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Taiw...GrvkMHLekDw%3d
MOV1... Well, it's obviously a Metal Oxide Varistor, a kind of Transient Voltage Suppressor. Varistors are interesting little devices which are typically used as surge protectors. Those power strips you buy for lightning protection contain them.
This one's proving difficult. This one is close, but I think it's a little larger than the one on the 3.57, and it has a lower surge energy rating than the one on the 3.0 board: http://mouser.com/ProductDetail/Litt...c3Hpfx7tgkI%3d
It'll definitely work if you can't find something closer.
This one's another possibility, again, it's close but not exact. Has a very low surge energy rating, and is physically a tad smaller than the stock one: http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...=495-2593-1-ND
Fortunately, the MOV is not at all a mission critical part. It's job is to try and protect the rest of the board from transient overvoltage conditions, which is exactly what you did to yours. (And obviously, the MOV failed to do its job there, because you exposed the board to a sustained overvoltage, not just a quick surge.)
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04-28-2010, 01:20 PM
#23
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Oh man all it takes is a post from Joe Perez that is longer than 3 sentences to remind myself on how much I dont know lol.
Thx for the help! Looks like all these parts are sub $2, I can dig it.
Thankfully I got a guy I autox with that solders under a microscope daily and will be able to fix me up
. Will probly use this thread as a reference for parts too.
Thx for the help! Looks like all these parts are sub $2, I can dig it.
Thankfully I got a guy I autox with that solders under a microscope daily and will be able to fix me up
. Will probly use this thread as a reference for parts too.
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04-28-2010, 01:57 PM
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I need help figuring out what the part numbers are for the 3 transistors.
My friend says once he gets the MS he could probly get enough info off it to figure it out, but if one of you guys knows it off the top of your head that would be great
He's also going to look at the d12 diode and the MOV1 suppressor.
He uses digikey.com for the parts he gets at work.
Any help is much appreciated!
My friend says once he gets the MS he could probly get enough info off it to figure it out, but if one of you guys knows it off the top of your head that would be great
He's also going to look at the d12 diode and the MOV1 suppressor.
He uses digikey.com for the parts he gets at work.
Any help is much appreciated!
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04-28-2010, 04:25 PM
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04-29-2010, 08:14 AM
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04-30-2010, 09:54 AM
#30
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Well so far my friend found 2 traces blown, and 2 resistors blown.
It would help him tremendously if he has a schematic to look at.
That 30 volts fried more than I thought. The traces that blew weren't visable in any of the pictures.
It would help him tremendously if he has a schematic to look at
.That 30 volts fried more than I thought. The traces that blew weren't visable in any of the pictures.
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04-30-2010, 11:29 AM
#31
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Well my local autox region is saving my *** here. But heres whats blown so far:
List of bad so far:
1) U5, LM2937ET-5.0 removed under suggestion it is bad, have not verified operation, but they are cheap to replace
2) Q12, TIP125TU, blown up, removed what was left.
3) Q2? TIP125TU, blown up, removed what was left.
4) R30, possible 271 ohm, center digit scorched, removed, open- resistor cracked in 2
5) R34, value??, top burnt off, removed, measures 425 ohm
6) Trace melted apart between C14 & D21, installed jumper
7) Trace melted apart between D10 & D12 on D12 side after the via. Installed jumper
Trace under P2 (37pin DB connector) shows evidence of overheating, coating burnt off but not severed at pin28 on the smaller width trace.
My friend was wanting to know if theres any other places you guys have seen to be bad on another over voltaged board before. Theres also a short is between 12V and GND. Between 5V and GND is about 600 ohm. And the large electrolytic marked 3300uF 25V measures 3.08mF when desoldered from the board.
Just trying to get this straightened out. Need to build a MS myself so I can have a better grasp on all this lol.
Any help is much appreciated.
List of bad so far:
1) U5, LM2937ET-5.0 removed under suggestion it is bad, have not verified operation, but they are cheap to replace
2) Q12, TIP125TU, blown up, removed what was left.
3) Q2? TIP125TU, blown up, removed what was left.
4) R30, possible 271 ohm, center digit scorched, removed, open- resistor cracked in 2
5) R34, value??, top burnt off, removed, measures 425 ohm
6) Trace melted apart between C14 & D21, installed jumper
7) Trace melted apart between D10 & D12 on D12 side after the via. Installed jumper
Trace under P2 (37pin DB connector) shows evidence of overheating, coating burnt off but not severed at pin28 on the smaller width trace.
My friend was wanting to know if theres any other places you guys have seen to be bad on another over voltaged board before. Theres also a short is between 12V and GND. Between 5V and GND is about 600 ohm. And the large electrolytic marked 3300uF 25V measures 3.08mF when desoldered from the board.
Just trying to get this straightened out. Need to build a MS myself so I can have a better grasp on all this lol.
Any help is much appreciated.
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04-30-2010, 04:04 PM
#32
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My MS died once when it was being powered by the stim, which was powered by its AC adapter when my apartment experienced an electrical issue. My failure was a quick zapping though, not due to a prolonged over-voltage situation, and I had nothing visibly burned or melted. Here's my thread from almost two years ago.
Cliff's: I'm not enough of an electronics whiz to pinpoint a single failed component so I wound up looking at the power supply schematic on the megamanual site (they have the v3.57 schematics too) and replacing all that stuff- diodes, caps, U5, MOV1, F1. So I used a shotgun instead of a scalpel, but I got 'er done.
Cliff's: I'm not enough of an electronics whiz to pinpoint a single failed component so I wound up looking at the power supply schematic on the megamanual site (they have the v3.57 schematics too) and replacing all that stuff- diodes, caps, U5, MOV1, F1. So I used a shotgun instead of a scalpel, but I got 'er done.
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05-04-2010, 05:34 PM
#34
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Well this snowballed into a lot more problems than I first thought. There seems to be quite a bit of internal damage to the board, so Im guna opt to buy another board or maybe catch the next batch of MS3
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05-04-2010, 05:58 PM
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Haha, I was going to sell it for dirt cheap if you want fix it.
My friend found his MS stim to test it out, there were quite a few problems. Injectors always on, leds would flicker then go off, idle air control wouldnt stay on, fuel pump would stay on for 1-2 minutes then go off, few others. I can ask him for the full list if you want me too brain.
Im sure you could have this fixed in a hurry :P. Just time consuming for my friend.
Actually.... you got PM.
My friend found his MS stim to test it out, there were quite a few problems. Injectors always on, leds would flicker then go off, idle air control wouldnt stay on, fuel pump would stay on for 1-2 minutes then go off, few others. I can ask him for the full list if you want me too brain.
Im sure you could have this fixed in a hurry :P. Just time consuming for my friend.
Actually.... you got PM.
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