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Old 01-17-2008, 05:13 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
Are you guys running unchanged maps with hi-res without any issues?

Just easytherming hi-res, flashing, loading your old map untouched (maybe changing those 2 or 3 .01 values to .1 so as to get rid of the warning flagged in audit.log) and then you're all good?

Just curious on your results here...
sorta, no issues, but the fuelling is 'not right' so it does need a retune afterwards, happily for me anyway everything is on the richer side so it's all safe.

As Chad said, I had to lean out my Idle areas a LOT to get it back where it was before AFR wise. 1st start after loading the high_res code my Idle AFR's were 10:1 to off the scale rich.....
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:21 AM   #62
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+1 on the write up/how to
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Old 01-17-2008, 07:58 AM   #63
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I installed the .1 uf cap today and a huge thanks to DIY for sorting out the fix for the occasional miss!!!!

I then tried the Hi-Res code tonight and it started brilliantly, then died. Way to much fuel. How much fuel are you guys taking off your VE table and have you taken anything off your ASE??

If I get some time might play with it again tomorrow and see if I can sort something out.

For those of you who do have it running maybe you could post something in the Settings sticky?
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:12 PM   #64
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I thought I'd post to say that I fitted the capacitor at the weekend and it has completely cured the annoying missfire and rough low speed running that I was getting. I also loaded in the hi res and it does idle better but (on mine at least) it still doesn't like being much leaner than 13.5 at idle.

A big thank you to the support people at DIY who helped me and e-mailed a board schematics so I knew where I was putting the thing. I'm running a MSPNP on a 90. Bob.
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Old 01-21-2008, 01:21 PM   #65
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FYI guys... I'm also running Hi-res 10d2 on our 91T car now. It was a bit rich at idle, nothing crazy, but about a point or so richer than I had it before. But the beauty was leaning it back to 13.3:1 on the hires code went .1 AFR at a time with gorgeous control.

Took it for a cautious test drive and I'm about a half point leaner at WOT than I was before... so BEWARE! I'll be putting it back on the dyno to dial it in. There is alot of promise here, but it appears some fine tuning will be needed.
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Old 01-21-2008, 04:10 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
FYI guys... I'm also running Hi-res 10d2 on our 91T car now. It was a bit rich at idle, nothing crazy, but about a point or so richer than I had it before. But the beauty was leaning it back to 13.3:1 on the hires code went .1 AFR at a time with gorgeous control.

Took it for a cautious test drive and I'm about a half point leaner at WOT than I was before... so BEWARE! I'll be putting it back on the dyno to dial it in. There is alot of promise here, but it appears some fine tuning will be needed.
it is brilliant code isn't it Jerry

Bob, glad you got it sorted too, now go enjoy the car
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Old 01-21-2008, 04:39 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
FYI guys... I'm also running Hi-res 10d2 on our 91T car now. It was a bit rich at idle, nothing crazy, but about a point or so richer than I had it before. But the beauty was leaning it back to 13.3:1 on the hires code went .1 AFR at a time with gorgeous control.

Took it for a cautious test drive and I'm about a half point leaner at WOT than I was before... so BEWARE! I'll be putting it back on the dyno to dial it in. There is alot of promise here, but it appears some fine tuning will be needed.
That's neat. Thanks Jerry. Maybe we can try this on my car after I get the cams in.
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Old 01-21-2008, 05:57 PM   #68
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Does the hi-res code add more resolution to the VE table?

-Mike
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Old 01-21-2008, 06:16 PM   #69
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it's high res in the fact that the calculations are based on three decimal points and not one. you do not get a larger VE table. but injecting 2.2ms of fuel vs 2.249ms of fuel, can make a worlds of difference.
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:36 PM   #70
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Is this the cap im supposed to buy? Here is a link to the radio shack website: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2102589&cp

This will get soldiered to js8 and ground correct?
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Old 01-21-2008, 10:49 PM   #71
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Voltage rating on that cap is overkill, but won't hurt anything.... that will do the trick...
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Old 01-21-2008, 11:10 PM   #72
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Cool! I hope this help a crazy tach hiccup i have around 4k. I'll add a new engine ground as well.

Edit: I think i found a less overkill version:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2103630&cp

Same thing just less max volatage correct?
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Old 01-22-2008, 09:55 AM   #73
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I had the same issue, the cap fixed it.
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Old 01-22-2008, 10:05 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRiv87 View Post

Edit: I think i found a less overkill version:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2103630&cp

Same thing just less max volatage correct?
Yep-- that would work too. Needs to be .1uf, and probably and about 12-16v or higher.
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Old 01-23-2008, 01:21 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by FoundSoul View Post
Yep-- that would work too. Needs to be .1uf, and probably and about 12-16v or higher.
I checked out the technical specs on it and I chose the first(http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2102589&cp) rather than second(http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2103630&cp), due to the fact that the max temperature rating on the second capacitor is 85 degrees Fahrenheit. I know the first one is overkill with voltage, but it can also handle temperatures up to 225. Due to the fact the temperature rating is so low on the second, wouldn't that be an issue?

If you made the mistake, luckly it only costs a buck and two quarters =P.

It also looks physically smaller, buy it may be the picture. Figure it's the heavy duty version for the same cost.

Last edited by compy; 01-23-2008 at 01:32 AM.
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Old 01-23-2008, 09:06 AM   #76
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Originally Posted by compy View Post
I checked out the technical specs on it and I chose the first(http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2102589&cp) rather than second(http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2103630&cp), due to the fact that the max temperature rating on the second capacitor is 85 degrees Fahrenheit. I know the first one is overkill with voltage, but it can also handle temperatures up to 225. Due to the fact the temperature rating is so low on the second, wouldn't that be an issue?

If you made the mistake, luckly it only costs a buck and two quarters =P.

It also looks physically smaller, buy it may be the picture. Figure it's the heavy duty version for the same cost.
excellent catch-- I overlooked the temp ratings... when picking parts you guys definitely want to keep the temp range in mind that a car will see, and then some. You don't want your car acting funny on really hot/cold days .
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:34 PM   #77
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Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
no Pin11 off the CPU, before the resistor, not after. JS8 is an output for CAN?

obviously neg of the cap goes to ground
These radio shack ones arn't electrolytic correct?
So they have no negative.

Last edited by compy; 01-23-2008 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 01-23-2008, 06:47 PM   #78
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No. Electrolytic caps are polarized*, but those that were linked to aren't electrolytics.

Electrolytics are typically built of a metal cylinder with a plastic wrap. The leads can be either one on each side or both on the same side. They're also usually found only in higher capacitance values than we're dealing with here, typically >1F. Here's an electrolytic cap:




(*) There are a few non-polarized electrolytic caps out there, used primarily in high-power audio filters. They are not commonly used elsewhere.
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:09 PM   #79
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I'm sorry I meant to type ARN'T electrolytic, hence no negative. Corrected it. And agreed, didn't think ones these small would we polarized.
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Old 01-23-2008, 07:44 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compy View Post
I'm sorry I meant to type ARN'T electrolytic, hence no negative. Corrected it. And agreed, didn't think ones these small would we polarized.
Gotcha.

There are some capacitors in this size range that are polarized. Tantalums come to mind immediately. Technically, tantalum caps are a subset of electrolytic caps, however they look more like ceramic caps and are available in much smaller values. They're nicer than regular aluminum can electrolytics as they have a much lower ESR and ESL, they're more temperature-stable, and they're more precise. On the downside, they like to explode (literally) when overvoltaged for even for the briefest of periods.
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