I'm seriously considering starting an Eliminator build next summer. Of course the engine will be running off an MS.
Target of the build is: Cheap first, power later.

Now when you run an Exocet, Eliminator or Ghettocet, the driver and subsequently the ECU may be exposed to weather-conditions. Rain comes to mind.

I don't much trust the DB37 connectors used in MS. Any ideas how they hold up to getting wet? Any suggestions for a different type connector? Something waterproof maybe? Making an adapter-board seems pretty easy.

Please don't suggest MS-Pro. The price difference to the MS3 is just too much.

 

Build the standard MS with standard connectors, then mount it within a semi-water-tight box. Have the only non-sealed opening be at the bottom, with the wires going up inside.

That way you can use standard connectors, but water intrusion will basically be eliminated.



I'm thinking of a sealed aluminum box, with the only opening at the bottom. Two plates with a small semi-circle cut in them mate together to form the bottom. The wires go through this now full circle opening.

 

You could mount it inside a totally wateright box, then use a firewall bulkhead connector or two. I'm thinking totally ditch the DB37 and stock case and just mount **** up in the custom box, wire straight to the pcb off the bulkhead connector.

 

^ Like that bulkhead connector. I'd say waterprrof box from Polycase.com and that BH it is.

 

Orrrr, you could get the ms3 pro which is fully waterproof.

 

/\ that

 

MS3 Pro: $1200
MS3/MS3X: $500

The difference is a set of Bilsteins with coilovers. Or a manifold and downpipe (I have the rest needed for a turbo setup for the eliminator)
At $800 or so, I would consider the Pro. The current price-tag is just way out of my league.

 

One way to weatherproof non-weatherproof connectors is to smear silicone grease all over both sides of the connection before mating them. Silicone spray can be easily shot into the pins of the connector first, followed by grease to fill up the remaining space.

It's messy, but this is how we treat RF connectors which go up on the top of a tower and are thus difficult to access for repair years down the road.

A better solution, obviously, is to mount the ECU in an area where it's not likely to get wet. Like inside a box. If you really want to be awesome, put it into a totally sealed box, and make a short wiring harness to go from a DB-37 to a properly weatherproofed connector, and mount that connector through the side of the box.

 

I really like that display lol.

 

FWIW, it's more than just a plastic case and better connectors. I 100% respect working within a budget, just mentioning it in case the other benefits to the MS3 PRO would be useful in your build.

What Joe said to do is what I would do if I had more time than money and needed my MS3X to be waterproof.

 

What would be the other benefits (beyond having to build it yourself)?

 

So what Joe is saying: when in doubt: lube....

I think I'll go the sealed box with a weather-proof bulkhead connector route. May or may not lube the bulkhead connector.

 

MS3 PRO has really good input filtering for cam/crank signals for example. No pots to adjust like on a MS3X, just hit the key and it works.

Input filter for other sensors (air, coolant, etc) are all perfectly smooth. I've seen plenty of datalogs from other ECU's where they are jumpy, my MS3 PRO's are perfectly smooth/stable.

See Ben's post here

https://www.miataturbo.net/ecus-tuni...a-2-7-a-86755/

 

IOW, marketing bullshit.

 

Kind of. The crank/cam input circuit really is significantly better. I'm actually going to be building my own version of it soon because of some of the issues that the normal inputs have. It uses a maxim VR chip, which is much better. The MS3/3x works well and is a good deal, but the MS3Pro is another level.

 

In all seriousness, MS sucked for years, slowly got better, and with MS3 PRO it's actually a well designed and executed part even when compared to other high level aftermarket ECUs. I was one of the first to buy it when it was released, cause I had fought through all kinds of stupid problems with my MS2E for years and always wanted a better ECU. I've used MS2E, MS3X, and MS3 PRO, and I'll never use a MS3X again.

 

May I ask why?
I installed my MS3X a few years back and it worked pretty much right out of the gate.

I also installed one in a '64 F100 on a 351 from a 97 F250 without a hitch.

Both cases took a little fiddling with the Crank or Cam sensors, but that was all I'd consider even slightly problematic.

 

Basically all the reasons Ben listed. It's a better part, better designed, better connectors, better case, inputs are smooth vs all my experience with MS2/MS3 they were noisy. I've used the cheaper versions and they work, I'm not knocking them. Ran them for years. But I won't buy one again when there's a much better one out.

 

Ive run a MS1, MS2, DIYPNP, MS3, MS3x, MS3PRO.

I'd never run a MS1 or MS2 again.

 

I've done a back to back comparo with the pro vs the 3x.

I haven't noticed a SINGLE one of these "improvements". Not one. Not a single time.

In fact, the biggest problem, with my PRO, was the mind-numbingly STUPID prehistoric serial connection to the computer, that required an extra usb/serial adapter, and kept losing connection a billion times. Not one of my 3x's ever had this problem with their USB cable.

I just received another freshly built Rev unit that I'll be installing and tuning on Thumpetto's 01. I'll gladly post my feedback of that one too, and take my words back if the above stated personal experience is changed within these next couple weeks.