Adster

Hi All,

I'm just setting up the firmware and startup map on my DIYPNP before I install it on my 99 miata.

I installed the latest firmware (3.3.3) but was confronted with quite a few errors, I soon realised the startup map I had downloaded (from here MegaSquirtPNP by DIYAutoTune.com) was setup for the 3.3.1a firmware.

So I reflashed the firmware to 3.3.1a and I'm still getting fimrware compatibilty warnings:


7 Warnings:
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:flexport equal to the proposed LAUNCH
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:rtbaroport equal to the proposed Baro
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:ego2port equal to the proposed Baro
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:boost_ctl_pins equal to the proposed BOOST
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:launch_opt_pins equal to the proposed Launch
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:N2Oopt_pins2 equal to the proposed InjectorD+C
Warning: Parameter in .msq, but not valid for current firmware: No options found for Bit EcuParameter:shift_cut_in equal to the proposed Tableswitch

Am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Adam.

Matt Cramer

The MSPNP has slightly different pin names because certain MicroSquirt Module outputs are tied to dedicated circuits. TunerStudio usually gets it figured out correctly, but give your I/O pin settings a sanity check. If they're on the pins you want them to be, go ahead and run it.

Adster

Thank you very much Matt, I've checked and double checked everything.

The only discrepancies I can see between my build and the build on DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata



Are:

1) "If you are using the knock sensor, add the "ENABLE" jumper in the knock area. To jumper these connection, use a short piece of a snipped lead from one of the resistors or capacitors you've already installed." - Should I jumper the enable?

2) The PCB version in the guide is V1.1, mine is V1.5B are the jumpers the same?

3) "Input 1 1P (remove R14) 1S, 1I A/C Relay & Fan" - I do not have A/C so I have left R14 in situe and have not wired the jumpers.

4) High current drivers s1, s2, s3, s4. - Should I jumper wire these connections?

Thank you very much in advance for any help with any of my questions (apologies if they're a bit 'noobish' I'm quite new to this).

Adam.