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Old 11-29-2010, 04:40 PM   #41
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looks okay now. see what happens. your idle settings will need to be altered to try to lower the engine speed, like you tried before.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:17 PM   #42
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Damit the battery is to dead it trys to kick over and just dies.\

Ok just got it data logging now.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:30 PM   #43
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Alright it just idles up and down still, I put it on PWM Warm Up and changed everything (I believe where I was supposed to) to 6% and logged it as well as playing around with other settings I believe you mentioned (If I was doing it correctly is another matter...).

Here is the data log, I ran it for awhile hoping it would put some power back in the battery.

Here we go:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup.msl
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:35 PM   #44
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blah, beats me at this point.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:42 PM   #45
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Without Abe to tell me if maybe something is different with his (Although I have looked at the only AbeFM tune I could find (I can post it for comparison if need be) and made changes to mirror it) but either way this is just too weird.

I am going to throw in the stock ECU, plug back in the MAF and IAT and start it up. Just because now I even doubt myself although I need to reopen the Idle Air Screw again.
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:43 PM   #46
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there's something amiss with the MS, it's not your idle valve.

what does it look like when you take a composite log?
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Old 11-29-2010, 08:44 PM   #47
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I have not done that before, so I have no answer for it at this point.

Last edited by Cross; 11-29-2010 at 09:19 PM.
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Old 11-29-2010, 10:55 PM   #48
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I think I found something!

So I was looking through all my MS files I keep as backups (I had some really old stuff lol) and I had downloaded a group file that I guess Abe made that contained two MSQ's.

I loaded the newest one up and the issue was the same but he had quite a few changes across the board so I figured why not.

I am uploading that tune right now as we speak.

But I played around and found this:
Basic Settings -> CLT Based Rev Limit

The table really looked strange but then I honestly was not familiar with this tables purpose.

Looking though my idle seemed to be following its guide lines so I said screw it and dragged the plot down (This is all in my Data Log that I have uploaded too) and low and behold the idle started coming right down... but the car started running really rich and not recovering. It also started running like crap and when I finally shut it off sounded like it back fired....

The idle was def coming down I just felt the car was running to rough so now would you care looking things over Brain and telling me what you think?
He changed some of the crank and dwell etc I am curious if I should put those back or not...

But anyway here is the data log:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup 2.msl

And the new MSQ:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Tester 2.msq
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Old 11-29-2010, 11:27 PM   #49
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But this seems to be linked to the rev limiter... so this can't be it as the MS was just limiting the car's rev limit to lower the idle and it hints why the car was running like crap....

Damit I thought I had got somewhere but I think this was just a fluke... on a side note I guess I could read up on this setup but I don't see myself using it.

Last edited by Cross; 11-29-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 11-30-2010, 12:40 AM   #50
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Well here is the latest log I played around a little and only succeed in scaring the crap out of myself and heating the car up almost to far well beyond the limits I wanted...

http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/26/2490169//Current Setup 3.msl

I put back in the stock ecu and cooled it off seems fine idles just fine I did not even adjust the idle screw yet.

I have no idea what this is I turned off the Idle Control tried different timing (Which lead to the high heat I am going to go back and review just how high and how long... it still had coolant but it did drain around 30% through the coolant over flow which was almost full as it was).

A scary night with no answers.... I really do not see how the last owner got this running no problems, and I can not even get it to idle.

Reviewing the log there was less than 2 minutes between going from 205 to 250.... just a steady rise like the fans did not even come on it never seemed to just spike but even the dash temp gauge did not move till right near the end when I caught it (the gauges do not work when making changes to menu items so I could not see it on MS itself). I shut it off obviously so were talking less than 2 minutes from rise to shut off but...

This just scared me a little more than I would like. I have a KL v6 sitting here for the car but I was not ready yet to do the swap I wanted to get MS working first and used to MS2... now I am just thinking about selling this unit and walking away from it.
I don't mind toys nor what they bring but this was too close for comfort on a car with less than 70k. Now I am going to be paranoid I hurt something.
Less than 2 minutes to reach that temp and I caught it but it does not change the fact that it unnerved me. It only take a split second as everyone likes to say (Including me). The logical side says I am fine I caught it and handled it correctly but doubt never fails on these kinds of issues to make you second guess yourself.

Last edited by Cross; 11-30-2010 at 01:33 AM.
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Old 11-30-2010, 09:56 AM   #51
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have you calibrated your CLT, AIT, and WB sensors under tools? I ask because none of them look correct.


on your last log "//Current Setup 3.msl" the idle valve is still locked fully open. Can you try it again fully closed and see if that solves it?


I was looking for a clt based rev limiter but didn't see one on your map when searching through...I'm too used to ms3 and didn't notice any when looking at your msq, so I never suggested it.
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Old 11-30-2010, 01:38 PM   #52
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It was under the rev limit options but if its just limiting the revs due to coolant level and I set it to work at normal temps then will it not cause me to not be able to go anywhere while trying to drive the vehicle normally?

I am positive I did calibrate the sensors but I will do it again just to be safe.

I will close it again and see what it does.
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Old 11-30-2010, 03:37 PM   #53
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Alright I brought the MS in and figured I would use the Stimulator that I also bought and see if it does the same thing on the stim too. Or I would just play with it inside and see if I find anything.

I also wanted to test the Miata with the stock ECU and see how it did. I forgot to open the idle screw but it idled just fine still.
I opened it up where it was before and it runs great no issues so I think the coolant sensor was not calibrated correctly now, if it had gotten that high even for that short of a time I think the stock gauge would have gone much higher I just noticed it on the rise. But either way everything seems fine so my 110 second scare from 205-250 supposedly seems to have been caught when it needed to be.

Hopefully though I can now figure this out, it has to be something with Abe's Unit that can be jumpered, something wrong in the tune or something wired differently in the MS2 unit.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:42 AM   #54
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Alright I have not gotten to play with it but I thought things were great on the car driving it today until I had to work tonight....

Randomly (And I mean randomly I can not repeat it when I want) it will try to stall out.

I thought it was because I needed to reset the idle air screw so I have been screwing with it literally... (Pun intended)

Its still doing it, idles great but randomly it drops to 500 and then dies.

Then it got worse but again randomly, it hesitated and bucked and then was fine.

I found a plug wire loose thought that might be it and it has not bucked but it did die again tonight.

I am going to swap on another set of coil packs, make a thread asking the OHM reading for the coil pack (If I can check it that way, I would think you could) should be for factory specs and I have run across a few threads talking about the CAS.

I guess I might just have found a possible cause here for my issues... wouldn't that be nice.

Hopefully Friday I can jump back on this and actually make some progress.

I again want to thank everyone for the help, Brain if your ever close I really want to buy you a beer I owe you that.

Hope a few stick with me through the rest of this.

Thanks!
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Old 12-02-2010, 09:37 AM   #55
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so is your idle within a normal range now?
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:41 PM   #56
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On the stock ECU yes, but its having that random issue with dropping and stalling and now the bucking.

I am going to check the CAS today and the codes. I have a spare CAS now that I am sure but then I had a spare Crank Sensor too.

I will get back with that info maybe it was the gremlin in all this.
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Old 12-02-2010, 02:44 PM   #57
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ah gotcha.
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Old 12-02-2010, 08:25 PM   #58
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So today I pulled the codes and got:
P0113
P0118
P0123
P1141

So I cleared them and they came back shortly.

So I replaced the Coolant Sensor, IAT Sensor, MAF and the whole Throttle Body with both the TPS and IAC sensors.

Made it a block and the car stalled again.

The gentleman I get all my Miata parts from was out of ECU's for 99-00, but he believe the ECU was the problem.

All those codes mean High Out put except for 1141 I believe is MAF related. All pieces have been replaced so I am not sure what to make of it here.

With all those parts replaced I find myself wondering just what could be the issue but this was not an issue before I started MS so either wiring is the issue for some reason (less likely in my opinion), the Stock ECU got damaged some how (More likely) or there is another issue I am not finding.

What do you think of this Brain?
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:49 PM   #59
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Well i drove it the past few days with no issues. I am going to check codes again now but only expect the usual O2 Error for the second O2 being removed.

I guess once cleared everything was fine, or so I hope but the car has no driving issues at all now.

I will report back but this friday I hope to put MS back in and find everything to be working as it should and one of the parts that I replaced to have been the culprit.
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Old 12-11-2010, 08:53 PM   #60
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I'm am really tired of this BS, I checked all the sensors are calibrated.

I watch the Wideband reading and on the Gauge included the reading goes from 14-15 and in MS it reads 11-12.

I have reset the wideband twice with it connected to the laptop no change so megasquirt is just pissing me off.

The isle is still the same, I have a new MSQ.

I am tired of this bull ****, it makes no sense to any board but it does it none the less. The reading on the Tuner Studio board is obviously screwed up as it thinks its reading 11-12 on AFR while the gauge says differently and both are configured identically in the LC Settings Program.

Someone has to be able to figure out WTF this is, sensors have been changed, tons of playing with the program and no matter what I can not idle nor get any help from Abe on what it could possibly be related to or that I need to change.

Is the Idle Valve still reading locked open? I have no idea why it would be but I have tried Warmup and Closed loop it changes nothing. 3-4k idle and thats it.

http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...1_17.36.10.msl
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