Cross

iTrader: (4)

I went out and redid the wideband to a custom voltage that matches the LC-1 Program settings o 0.000v - 7.35 afr and 5.000 - 22.39 afr.
Gauge still reads one direction in Megasquirt while the Gauge with the LC-1 reads another.

Coolant and AIT both calibrated to their GM and Mazda settings no change.

This thing is one fart away from me pushing it off a ******* cliff.

I can not even sell this MS2 and AbeFM unit as I can not get it working, nor do I think I can go back and complain with how long I have been fighting it. It just frustrates the hell out of me.

Cross

iTrader: (4)

Wideband reads correctly, forgot to unplug the Narrowband O2's.

In Warmup PMW I forced the % to 0 it did nothing to the idle.

Cross

iTrader: (4)

I gave up, disconnected the IAC and set the idle with the Idle Air Screw. I need to finish smoothing things out but it idles where it should now, timing is cleaned up alittle and I am working on the AFR's during idle.

However I have a new issue, I am not getting the fans to turn on so I need to make a thread on that. Sitting I got over 220 and no fans on at all.

Cross

iTrader: (4)

Yet another update, went into the controls in;
extended > output

Found 2 turned on, no idea if this is normal but well its an AbeFM and I honestly do not know.

However I found that IAC2 was enabled and set to rpm, threshold was at 5262 o.O and temp 250.0!!
WTH!!!

Not sure if this was where my idle issue came from, I am not going to test it yet I have clean up under the hood, intake rerouting, and wire route changes to make to clean things up.
Once this is solid I will be removing a lot of the harness I no longer need as I now have a backup non cali harness on the way to replace the one I currently had (Thinking that was the problem possibly).


What do you think of this brain? Possibly where the issue may have been?

There is one other enabled I will check it now, out of all the options I have no idea what is setup and what is not.... I could load the old tune and check that might give me an idea.

Cross

iTrader: (4)

Ok went for a drive and did some tuning, idle is around where it should be but goes up and down between 600 to 1000.
It also shows a notable drop when you turn on the head lights then comes back.

Either way, its progress, atleast its not racing to the finish at a light.

I looked back at the old tune it came with and I found that its settings under
extended > output
were as follows:






IAC1 was not even enabled and the settings were different in mine, I believe they were the default settings.

It leaves me wondering if this is where my problem was, I did not hear the fans turn on at all but I do not think this has anything to do with that.
There are some radical changes from what I had esp in the lack of an IAC1 option being enabled and IAC2 saying well over 5200 / 500.0 o.O

Very interesting.

Also the last pic shows the only difference in the general settings between mine and the AbeFM package I found.
Any thoughts? Should I run with it or should I be aware of something else if I were too?

Thanks

Cross

iTrader: (4)

Well I think Brains done with it too, I tried the changes still idled at 3-4k steady.

I have given up on it for now since no one has any idea's. When it gets to AC time I should be ready for the KL Swap anyway so it will be a while new game then.

When that time comes it will be interesting to see the wiring and my MS vs the current setup. I talked to Brain about a custom setup for the vehicle have not heard much back but no rush at this point.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

what is connected to IAC1 and IAC2?

I'm just kinda clueless at this point. You really need to get in touch with Abe.


my sample window deg is 10. look like my angle is 45°

ScottFW

iTrader: (4)

In your settings for PM5 (warmup LED) you need to change the "trigger value" to 1 if you want your fans to ever come on.

Cross

iTrader: (4)

Alright I drove around today and I could swear they came one, I mirrored the settings I found from Abe.

As for whats connected I do not know I just mirrored what Abe lists as his default tune.

I have had no luck at all getting Abe to answer me at all.

I tuned and data logged today with great luck. I never got above 198 all day and I assumed the fans were on because of that but I will go back and change that to see what it does.

Cross

iTrader: (4)

Alright, with the car running via the IAC unplugged I have been riving it and tuning it as follows. I am looking into getting the warmup enrichment right and smoothing things out but there is still this High Idle Issue if I plug the IAC back in.

I would love some advice on my current msq and the data logs I have done the past few days. I will put them in order from the first day to today's last one.
Any and all advice on things I should look at, smooth out etc I welcome. I feel a random hesitation at times and I am sure its data logged esp this morning as well as being way to rich on cold start this morning but I think I am starting to get it pretty close to being dialed in.

Logs:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...un 1 12.11.msl
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...un 2 12.11.msl
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...un 3 12.11.msl
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...ning 12.13.msl
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...Home 12.13.msl
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...rive 12.14.msl
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...rive 12.14.msl

Again they are in order from start to today, the last two are today's.

Here is my Warm up enrichment since I have IAC control completely off (Its disconnected so I believe that to be the proper choice at this time):


And here is the Current MSQ:
http://www.fileden.com/files/2009/6/...est%20Tune.msq

Thanks, hopefully someone will have an idea oh and on the fan comment I tried changing it to one and noticed no difference, put it back to 0 and checked to find both fans were on.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Wow, I don't know where you are on this. I'm really sorry for being gone for so long. I've had some pretty hairy stuff going on for a while and wasn't really online. If you're still messing with this unit, I'll give you my IM and we can chat online. The truth is, I'm relatively out of touch with the whole thing as it's been a while. But let me give you a couple small pointers:


On the fans, I believe I have it set to "0" for the triggered value because the output is inverting (it uses the middle LED as the driver for the fans). You might change the Power On value to 1 so it doesn't briefly power them before you start.

The temp settings were always goofy - I think I list somewhere the numbers that I use. They aren't great, but no one has ever given me better. Basically, you just type the three numbers in I list and it gets the temps roughly correct in the range most people care about (~155-220f). It lets me set when the fans come on accurately, and that's fine.

FYI: The OEM water temp guage is crap. It lies to you. By the time the needle moves, it's generally too late. I linearlized mine some time ago, I don't know if I did a thread here on it, but I did take some pics to show what's involved:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/Miata/Modif...er-Temp-Guage/
Doing that will give you a handle on what's going on it other places. I guess you could just as well buy an aftermarket gauge - but basically the response is flat (needle not moving) for a 40-50 degree range.

With your idle valve being open, yes, it's very likely one of the two outputs you saw set to trigger on RPM. I have no idea why they are that way - I wonder if it's a change in the EXACT version of the MS-II code/.ini files. Unfortunately, the version of the code I did all my development on the MS guys decided to pretend never existed. They pulled it off all the servers and started numbering stuff out of order. At any rate, the output is overriding the idle code - so turn those off.

One of them is to control VICS (the one set for 5250), if you're still in this project and still stuck, let me know, I'll dig out the schematics and figure out which output is the one you need to tweak.

A couple quick questions: Is your wiring harness stock? You mentioned replacing it. Another friend had a similar problem with this set up - stuff wasn't working and it turned out his wiring wasn't stock.

Actually, let me see if you're still looking at this 6 months later. Again, sorry for not being around.