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Where might I find the most recent version of this fabled document? You have about a gazillion posts on here and I don't want to mix up an old post as "correct" like I have in the recent past...
His signature, go to trubokitty.com. Typo is on purpose.
His signature, go to trubokitty.com. Typo is on purpose.
I didn't realize that was his site! I've been there before. Very helpful.
However, that basemap has "additional drivers" selected, so it is running full sequential? Are the settings not different for semi-sequential?
1/3 and 2/4 pairing? 1/4 and 2/3? Running adjacent cylinders in the firing order together makes the most sense to me... but I want to make sure Im not crazy.
So -340 degrees for "injection timing 1" means that Injector Bank A fires 340 degrees after cylinder 1 hits TDC on the power stroke (so 20 degrees before intake stroke begins on cylinder 1)? Then does Bank A fire again 360 after the first event? Does Injector Bank B fire 180 degrees offset from Injector Bank A?
So -340 degrees for "injection timing 1" means that Injector Bank A fires 340 degrees after cylinder 1 hits TDC on the power stroke (so 20 degrees before intake stroke begins on cylinder 1)? Then does Bank A fire again 360 after the first event? Does Injector Bank B fire 180 degrees offset from Injector Bank A?
To clarify, the below is what I think the car should be doing based on my understanding of the system and what you are saying. Is this right? I want to understand the why behind what you are telling me to do. From what I can tell, this is telling the injector to end its pulse 15 degrees before the intake valve opens?
The fact that the injector banks each fire twice per 720 degrees and alternate A/B is why it is set to 2 squirts per cycle alternating?
As I didn't get any input on my questions about timing, I just threw cuation to the wind and started street tuning. I spent about 3 hours driving, stopping, using VE Analyzer, and driving again. By the end of the night my car ran great up to 6000RPM. I did not tune above 6000 yet. Given that, here is my VE map. Still seems wonky to me, but the car is running pretty well...
One thing I noticed today... I heard something "Click" (similar to the sound of a relay) somewhere in the car, and the car started running extremely lean. it bounced back and forth between lean and rich for a while, then it cleared up. This is the second time I have experienced this phenomenon, though last time I didn't hear the "click". Almost like whatever that is could be causing my rich AFR issues. If anyone has any insight into what I should be troubleshooting, I would really appreciate it. I attached my most recent tune file in case anyone is interested in taking the time.
Spark is supposed to be set "going low" unless you have mods like Jim's of BIP373's right?
If you're targeting end-of-squirt to be 340° -- that would mean the MS would time your pulse to stop injecting at 25° BTDC, or just 10° before the valve starts to open. which IMHO is a pretty good target to get all the fuel at the valve.
the click was probably your fuel pump relay turning off, which is not good.
that chart is wrong, the injectors and coils are banked differently..
I thought for semi-sequential to work properly, one was supposed to match the waste spark groups to the injector groups? Are you saying they are matched wrong in my chart compared to standard wiring practice, or that my chart doesn't match the optimal setup for semi-sequential?
Originally Posted by Braineack
the click was probably your fuel pump relay turning off, which is not good.
I think I am going to add a permanent fuel pressure gauge. I will troubleshoot that theory.
There isn't something wonky with that VE map, it is indicative of something being fundamentally wrong in the setup. I would strongly suggest you get it resolved before moving forward.
I asked you earlier if you were using the DIYautotune basemap, and then pointed out fueling related configurations that are different. Hint hint the DIY basemap should pretty much be a known-good starting point.
i mean if youre going to bother rewiring for semi-seq (which is still functional in wasted spark), then just wire up for seq. injection, which the car is already wired for.
i mean if youre going to bother rewiring for semi-seq (which is still functional in wasted spark), then just wire up for seq. injection, which the car is already wired for.
yes, I will not be rewiring for semi-sequential as I am already waiting on parts for full sequential.
BUT if someone was to do semi-seq properly, would it be necessary to pair the injectors with the spark banks as I did in that chart?
There isn't something wonky with that VE map, it is indicative of something being fundamentally wrong in the setup. I would strongly suggest you get it resolved before moving forward.
I asked you earlier if you were using the DIYautotune basemap, and then pointed out fueling related configurations that are different. Hint hint the DIY basemap should pretty much be a known-good starting point.
Okay. Going back in the thread, I noticed you said I had the wrong dead time. I changed that. Currently it is down to .6ms. Any lower and the car wont run right. It did help, just not a silver bullet. I also incorporated AFR and turned off secondary fuel like you said.
The very last thing you mentioned, which made a lot of sense, was that I was probably getting more squirts than I thought. However, I switched to 1 simultaneous squirt and it didn't improve my troubles... I think I have genuinely attempted every suggestion you have made? Plus I have tried every other combination I could think of, none really have an effect. Which I suppose could be a symptom on its own.
Spark is supposed to be "going low" unless you have a spark mod, right?
Go to DIYautotune, download the basetune, load it on your ECU, see if that does anything different. If it doesn't, then you likely have a HW problem. If it does (favorably) then you likely have an MS configuration problem.
Trying to get something different to work (semi-sequential, alpha-n, no additional drivers, different dead time, adjusted injector fuel rates, ...) on top of trying to get the baseline to work is a tough row to hoe. Once you get the base working as expected, you can start making changes, like the semi-sequential or sequential. I don't doubt that semi-sequential has advantages, or Brain wouldn't have it in his tune.
Go to DIYautotune, download the basetune, load it on your ECU, see if that does anything different. If it doesn't, then you likely have a HW problem. If it does (favorably) then you likely have an MS configuration problem.
I will do that. However, one thing I don't want to leave to chance is the safety of my ignition coils. Without any ignition mods, can someone confirm I should be running spark trigger "going low"? I see that Jim's ignition mod allows you to switch to "going high", so I am assuming that means without a mod "going low" is correct.
what are your ignition mods? that's the only way we'll be able to know
They are the ones on your build thread from like... 2009 in the stickies, but crossed to run correctly on the 1.8L. Here's a picture. (This unit was built by another user around 2011.) That picture should only be referenced for my spark circuits. I have changed the board a lot
to fix several issues I found with the hardware setup.
Originally Posted by Braineack
if you had it wrong your coilpacks would have burnt up by now.
Well, I loaded a base tune that had them set "going high" and ran at idle for a few minutes before switching them back... should I check the resistance of my primaries to make sure I didnt lose a coil?
Go to DIYautotune, download the basetune, load it on your ECU, see if that does anything different. If it doesn't, then you likely have a HW problem. If it does (favorably) then you likely have an MS configuration problem.
Trying to get something different to work (semi-sequential, alpha-n, no additional drivers, different dead time, adjusted injector fuel rates, ...) on top of trying to get the baseline to work is a tough row to hoe. Once you get the base working as expected, you can start making changes, like the semi-sequential or sequential. I don't doubt that semi-sequential has advantages, or Brain wouldn't have it in his tune.
i'm a little bit worried that this wont be a 1 to 1 comparison. Due to the firmware change between the diy version and mine, i got about 45 errors. I think I translated them all, but some do not translate directly between tunes. I'll translate as best I can between them and try it.
06-21-2018, 09:45 AM
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the DIY basemap should pretty much be a known-good starting point.
