idles fine, drops, then slowly rises
05-27-2015, 05:36 PM
#21
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<p>looking again, I think the DT is fine. 1.2ms is good for those injectors.</p><p> </p><p>what i see in the first log is the car running at 44% idle DC to maintain a smooth 950RPM idle.</p><p>when you blip the throttle and the car goes back to the initial duty table, it's aimin gfor 34%DC whihc is way to low for it to acheive a sustainable idle and it stalls. </p><p>I'd tune the intial idle duty table to values to that make sense.</p><p>I also see the idle valve nor spark react to try to hit idle, I dont like your delay settings and I would enable adaptive ignition timing so that MS uses spark angle to control idle when it gets too far off of targets.</p><p> </p><p>the scond log shows a VERY untuned idle valve. it's holding steady while your enginge speed ocssilates a good 250RPM.</p><p>I'd tune the idle control PID settings to values that allow the idle valve to WORK. Again, the delay is too long (10sec) and inital duty too low and why it's doing that initially in the log before it finally rises and stablizes.</p><p> </p><p>TUNE TUNE TUNE TUNE. you need to tune. tune the idle settings so the car idles well and doesnt stall. tune--as in tune the car.</p>
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05-27-2015, 05:41 PM
#22
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<p>dont use tuners, do it yourself, tuners make money clicking buttons and giving you a car with a blown motor, then taking more money replacing it for you.</p><p>make your crank to run delay like 4 sec.</p><p>make the PID delay like 2 sec.</p><p>make intervals like 150ms</p><p>PID disable 1000 rpmdot</p><p>tune the closed loop gain slider so the idle valve works and reacts to inputs.</p><p>tune the initial duties table the idle valve opens to a good value that will keep the RPMs where you want them--like from now on you should know on a normal day 45% idle duty should get me to 950RPM. Or change to last known value.</p>
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05-27-2015, 05:58 PM
#23
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<p>dont use tuners, do it yourself, tuners make money clicking buttons and giving you a car with a blown motor, then taking more money replacing it for you.</p><p>make your crank to run delay like 4 sec.</p><p>make the PID delay like 2 sec.</p><p>make intervals like 150ms</p><p>PID disable 1000 rpmdot</p><p>tune the closed loop gain slider so the idle valve works and reacts to inputs.</p><p>tune the initial duties table the idle valve opens to a good value that will keep the RPMs where you want them--like from now on you should know on a normal day 45% idle duty should get me to 950RPM. Or change to last known value.</p>
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05-27-2015, 08:23 PM
#24
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<p>dont use tuners, do it yourself, tuners make money clicking buttons and giving you a car with a blown motor, then taking more money replacing it for you.</p><p>make your crank to run delay like 4 sec.</p><p>make the PID delay like 2 sec.</p><p>make intervals like 150ms</p><p>PID disable 1000 rpmdot</p><p>tune the closed loop gain slider so the idle valve works and reacts to inputs.</p><p>tune the initial duties table the idle valve opens to a good value that will keep the RPMs where you want them--like from now on you should know on a normal day 45% idle duty should get me to 950RPM. Or change to last known value.</p>
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06-01-2015, 09:43 AM
#26
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With the tuner now. It idles fine until I Rev it then it drops and stalls. Please help. We don't know where to look.
dont use tuners, do it yourself, tuners make money clicking buttons and giving you a car with a blown motor, then taking more money replacing it for you.
As Braineack said, you can do this yourself, stop giving money to someone that as you say
and neither tuner wants to **** with megasquirt
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06-01-2015, 09:55 AM
#27
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Stop going to this "tuner"
As Braineack said, you can do this yourself, stop giving money to someone that as you say
this means they will not invest their time to learn the system, so that means they are a shifty individual, if they don't want to work to lean something to help their customers then question their motives, because the only thing you will end up with is them screwing up and you paying them more and more
As Braineack said, you can do this yourself, stop giving money to someone that as you say
this means they will not invest their time to learn the system, so that means they are a shifty individual, if they don't want to work to lean something to help their customers then question their motives, because the only thing you will end up with is them screwing up and you paying them more and more
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06-01-2015, 01:59 PM
#28
Hey bud I hope its not too late but TBH you are working too far ahead of yourself. You need to go back to the basics before you turn on CL. Get the car idling in open loop and adjust the idle screw to the rpm you want to idle at when warm. Makes sure this idle point is set when the headlights and fans are not running. After you find that zone, adjust your fuel and spark table so the car idles smooth and doesn't hunt around the map. I usually idle at 15 degrees and make your fuel table so the cell is a little leaner with richer fuel cells around it. This will make a nice little idle pocket for you to chill in. Keep your airs between 13.9-14.7 in idle or where the engine is comfortable. Now go to CAN Bus/Test modes and click Output Test Mode -Idle Vlave. You will run the test at 100 steps and make note of the highest rpm. Stop the test and lower the number until the rpm just barely starts to fall. This number of steps is your Idle valve Open Duty. Do the same to find the lower duty but opposite. Now you will start at 0-10 steps and slowly increase the steps till you reach your target rpm. This number is your Idle Valve Closed Duty. Now turn Closed loop back on and put those numbers in. If you do this correctly you shouldn't have issues. The most important thing for this to work is to have the car running properly in Open Loop when there are no loads like lights, HVAC or fans running. If you rev the engine and it stumbles your spark/fuel map isn't right.
EDIT: A good way to keep the fans from coming on during open loop is to take a shop fan and put it right up agains the bumper.
EDIT: A good way to keep the fans from coming on during open loop is to take a shop fan and put it right up agains the bumper.
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06-01-2015, 02:03 PM
#29
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Hey bud I hope its not too late but TBH you are working too far ahead of yourself. You need to go back to the basics before you turn on CL. Get the car idling in open loop and adjust the idle screw to the rpm you want to idle at when warm. Makes sure this idle point is set when the headlights and fans are not running. After you find that zone, adjust your fuel and spark table so the car idles smooth and doesn't hunt around the map. I usually idle at 15 degrees and make your fuel table so the cell is a little leaner with richer fuel cells around it. This will make a nice little idle pocket for you to chill in. Keep your airs between 13.9-14.7 in idle or where the engine is comfortable. Now go to CAN Bus/Test modes and click Output Test Mode -Idle Vlave. You will run the test at 100 steps and make note of the highest rpm. Stop the test and lower the number until the rpm just barely starts to fall. This number of steps is your Idle valve Open Duty. Do the same to find the lower duty but opposite. Now you will start at 0-10 steps and slowly increase the steps till you reach your target rpm. This number is your Idle Valve Closed Duty. Now turn Closed loop back on and put those numbers in. If you do this correctly you shouldn't have issues. The most important thing for this to work is to have the car running properly in Open Loop when there are no loads like lights, HVAC or fans running. If you rev the engine and it stumbles your spark/fuel map isn't right.
EDIT: A good way to keep the fans from coming on during open loop is to take a shop fan and put it right up agains the bumper.
EDIT: A good way to keep the fans from coming on during open loop is to take a shop fan and put it right up agains the bumper.
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