Braineack

iTrader: (62)

it's a ecu replacement to control your fuel maps and spark.

so yes:

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

do I need a MAP sensor?

How much is a wideband o2?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

pretty sure it's an onboard map sensor.

around $180-190 shipped. LC-1

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!
LC-1 is the type that I want?

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

lc1 is a model of the brand innovative. Its one of the better/best wb's out there.

kingofl337

Thats all correct braineack, e-mange, AFC, bibes, 02 clamp, powercard, these are all hacks to attempt to make the oem ECU run correctly under boost. The megasquirt needs only air, coolant, map (built in), and RPM. After that you are ready to go. A wideband is recommended for tuning as the stock 02 is the sux.

I'm not real happy with the price of what the MS sold for on ebay. But, we will see what you guys think. The link ecu from FM is $1600.00 and its no nearly as open. I'm going to sell the MS upgrade kit for 550.00 of a complete kit.

If you would wrather build you own MS I'll do the mods for 120.00 w/o switchs and $140.00 with.

Alta_Racer

iTrader: (4)

Can the LC1 be used in place of the O2 sensor?

Is there a way to use a MAF instead of the MAP, or both?

Do I need a real TPS instead of a switch at the TB?

Can I use something along the lines of an MSD box (Dis-2) and better coils with this setup? EDIS coil pack or a pair of GM wasted spark coils.

If I was to buy one of these for my NA to taylor the fuel and timing, can I switch to FI at a later date, then just use a different map or reprogram?

Is there a problem if I switch to a 99-00 1.8 at a later date?

If these extras or updates cost more, give me an idea of the costs involved.

I thought hard about biding the $550 you wanted on the epay unit, but wanted to persue some options first.

Thanks

Ron

miatamania

iTrader: (9)

So your going to sell the whole kit for 550? what else would I need...just a wide band O2?

I'm really dumb with this stuff, but how is it tuned? I assume it has a USB hookup or something similar???

Do you need special software to tune it, or is that open source as well?

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

I can't answer all your questions because I dont know the answers. The LC1 can output a narrowband signal it derives from the wideband sensor. So it can replace the stock narrowband sensor.

I know of no reason why you would want to use an AFM or MAF over a MAP sensor. A MAP does not impede the incoming airflow at all, so it is the optimal setup.
The MS is tuned through a serial cable. All tunning software for it is free and I assume it is all also opensource.


Brian

Alta_Racer

iTrader: (4)

Put a vacume guage on the intake (NA) and see what it reads at idle and then, WOT under power, driving.

The reason the manufacturers switched from MAP to MAF is realy not because it is cheaper.

A MAF of sufficient size wont impeade flow either, but it will allow the ECM to calibrate fuel better. MAP is fine at cruise, but WOT is where a MAF shines.

That is the reason I would like to use MAF. I can certainly see the need for map to control timing under boost tho. Both would be interesting, but I have a feeling that is not an option. A boost pressure timing retard can be added with the DIS-2. It also has rev limiters and iirc rpm retard as well.


Ron

bripab007

The $550 for a complete kit seems like a fair price. This would include the IAT sensor, vacuum tubing, wiring and board-setup for the Miata-specific app.? Forgive me for not going back and re-reading all the posts in the Megasquirt sub-forum, but what modifications need to be done to the stock ECU board/case?

Also, would you elaborate on what you mean by the $120 w/o switches and $140 w/ part?

Thanks, and good work!

ecugrad

King put switches in mine to go back and forth between stock ECU and Megasquirt ECU.

Let me just tell you these switches are worth their weight in gold. Its been nice to have for troubleshooting (I had an issue with my MS freaking out due to not following the directions to CLEAN the board).

kingofl337

Can the LC1 be used in place of the O2 sensor?
-Yes


Is there a way to use a MAF instead of the MAP, or both?
You can leave the MAF hooked up but the MS doesn't use it.
Do I need a real TPS instead of a switch at the TB?
-No I use RPM Accel on 90-93.


Can I use something along the lines of an MSD box (Dis-2) and better coils with this setup? EDIS coil pack or a pair of GM wasted spark coils.
-You can use better coils I like the 2nd gen DSM.

If I was to buy one of these for my NA to taylor the fuel and timing, can I switch to FI at a later date, then just use a different map or reprogram?
-Exactly

Is there a problem if I switch to a 99-00 1.8 at a later date?
-Nope, as long as you use the 90-93 electronics.

If these extras or updates cost more, give me an idea of the costs involved.
-None

I thought hard about biding the $550 you wanted on the epay unit, but wanted to persue some options first.

Thanks

Ron

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

Where is the best place to buy the LC-1? In best, I mean cheapest.

kingofl337

The $550 for a complete kit seems like a fair price. This would include the IAT sensor, vacuum tubing, wiring and board-setup for the Miata-specific app.? Forgive me for not going back and re-reading all the posts in the Megasquirt sub-forum, but what modifications need to be done to the stock ECU board/case?

This includes everything you need to install a miata specific megasquirt. I dub
Miatasquirt.


Also, would you elaborate on what you mean by the $120 w/o switches and $140 w/ part?

This option allows you to build your own MS and I will just do the mods to the MS and your OEM ECU. This does not include tubing, IAT, ect. You would purchase these seperately.

kingofl337

They hover around 180.00-200.00 for the money DIY has the best support.

rotaryjunky

iTrader: (3)

How exactly do I hook up the fuel pump and the IAT? (Does the IAT need to be welded on the intake?)

If I get some time, I would like to prep the car so I can just plug it in when I get it.

kingofl337

The best way to install the AIT is to tap the intake manifold 3/8 NTP. If not you can JB weld it into the intake piping. The fuel pump wires to the Diagnostic connector. I'll have instructions and a picture.

carlb

iTrader: (2)

When will 99/00 units be available? And to make sure i understand, we send you back our stock ECU after you send us the modded components?

Also, I assume when switched back to stock ecu all OBDII functionality is maintained?

neogenesis2004

iTrader: (12)

Is it safe to assume there is no safe way to tap the IM with it wtill on the car? If there is do you mind sharing it with me?