Ok, I am pretty much lost on where to go from this point in trying to get my car started. It is a fresh rebuild and I have added a few parts, including the MS, in the rebuild process. Looking to get your guys help on getting it going. I have attached my currently MSQ file and the "dump" file.

Last night I tried starting the car for the 1st time with no success. First I disconnected the fuel pump relay and cranked her over a few times until it built oil pressure, worked perfectly. Then I tried to start her but no luck. Didn't want to keep going due to IAT temp reading. Read somewhere else that readings like that could make more fuel go in and flood the motor.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to get the car going so I can break in the rings and get it to the dyno.

Whats on the car:

• MS-1 built by Brain with 10g_hr
• 1.6 with M45
• GM IAT sensor (deleted AFM)
• 460cc RX-7 Injectors
• Toyota COP kit
• AEM UEGO wideband

What I have done to the ECU so far:

• Downloaded the deleted AFM base map for the 90-93. Used it as my starting point
• Changed the REQ fuel setting for the larger injectors.
• Adjusted cranking and after enrichment for larger injectors. Calculated by 230/460 factor.
• Changed settings for wideband per guide.
• Adjusted dwell times for COP.
• Change timing setting to fixed in preparation for starting the car.

What I think are problems:

• Intake air temperature is reading -40 degrees. I currently have the sensor wired to the shielded red wire and the black wire. Have changed it a few times because I cannot figure out what's correct, conflicting information. I have already cut off the AFM connector so Pin #'s don't help me. Wire colors correct?
• Each time I have loaded the base map I get a prompt telling me that there were some errors/warnings loading the map. I think there is a different in the 10g_hr maps and the ones available for download. Is this an issue?
• Have I messed up anywhere else? Correct firmware on there?

 

IAT should NOT be connected to the shielded red wire, which is the airflow signal wire, not the air temp signal wire.

 

Would you happen to know what 2 color wires I need to connect to are?

Also, I have read in the Megatune manual about calibrating the sensors but my version of Megatune and Tunerstudio do not have those options in the Tools menu. Is that a feature of the full paid version? Could that be a problem for me as well? Thanks.

 

comradefks
change your injector dead time to .75 and throw fuel table ve at 59 across the map under 100kpa

 

Ok changed the settings as instructed.

Think I will post an image on here with the AFM wiring diagram to see if we can nail down the wire colors.

Does having the IAT sensor affect starting the car significantly? I know I need to get it fixed obviously but would it reading incorrectly make the car not start?

Also, are the calibration sensor options only available in the full paid version of Tunerstudio or Megatune? Thanks.

 

by default yes it will affect the starting and running of the car.

 

Ok found this diagram. Look at page 4 at grid 7-C for the airflow meter. What color wires to I need to use?

http://neomiata.com/garage/Wiring%20...20Diagrams.pdf

Also, in the "Sensor Calibration" part of this guide, it says to choose the Calibrate Thermister Tables in the Tools menu. When I open Tools in Megatune, I don't have the option. Do I have the wrong version of the software?

DIYPNP MegaSquirt installation for the Mazda Miata

 

http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/tuner-studio
download and install tunerstudio

 

who'd you buy this unit from?

 

I have tried Tunerstudio as well, doesn't have the sensor calibration menus either.

I bought the ECU from another board member about 3-4 months ago.

FS thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...-iat-na-65034/

My 1st version question thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...-i-have-65608/

 

Also, just checked and I have the latest version of Tunerstudio downloaded. Version 2.0.5.

 

Isolated and boxed the wires I think I should be using for the IAT. Does this seem correct? Thanks.

 

no.

why does that make sense for the AIT wires? That's clearly the fuel pump ground.

you need to run the AIT into the pictured:



ignore the red line, focus on the two wires in the picture; install there.


--

for your fuel pump, looks like I made this years ago and you'll have to jump f/p and gnd in the diagnositics box for fuel, for now.

--

for you ait/clt calibrations, they are burned into the firmware of the MSI, you cannot change them on the fly like a ms2 like others are suggesting. You need the proper .inc files for your project, however, in order for TS to output the correct values on you laptop.

download these three into your project folder's "inc" folder: Index of /MS/msq/Therm Files/16L_standalone

 

I have cut off the AFM connector you have shown in the picture, long story but it's gone. I need to know what color wires connect to pin1 and pin6 in that image from the factory harness side.

for the fuel pump, is that a temporary solution until I get a professional dyno tune or will I need to modify something in the long run?

for ait/clt, I will try and download the .inc files tonight when I get home.

 

Also, looking at the wiring diagram in post#12, would the ait sensor be RED-GRN and BLK-LT GRN?

 

correct.

blk/lt green is always the sensor ground. red/grn is the ait input to the ECU.


you can go ahead and tie the two wires you circled to activate the fuel pump, just note it will run as long as the key is ON.

 

Got it, thank you.

Does running the fuel pump this way have negative affects in the long run by "burning it out"? Don't really know the proper terms for it but basically the fuel pump will run more of the time than necessary so it's putting "miles" on it. I don't think I will have much of an issue with that, just wanted to get it straight.

What is that solution for the fuel pump item currently?

 

it's just not safe practice if you crash.

you'd run a wire from pin 37 on the db37 to 2O on the harness. then jump that in the AFM connector to fuel pump relay wire. (the red line in that picture I posted)

that will allow the MS to activate the fuel pump.

 

Ok, I will jump the wires for now but look into making those changes prior to taking the car on track. Understand the safety concern with having the fuel pump always running.

 

it would be R (2O) to LG (Circuit Opening Relay).