Ms installation issues.
12-29-2007, 08:31 PM
#81
The LC-1 does have two outputs, defaults is that one of them is a narrowband emulator.
I'd guess that what you're seeing is that? I'm not on top of the wire colors.
Oh, in fact, since you got it used, it could very well have been programed for that - to output only narrowband signals.
Easy to tell, wait for it to warm up, and measure the voltages coming out of it with a voltmeter - if they never get over 2V, it's NB emulation. If it hovers around 2.5 it's 5V linear, and if it's 5V non-linear... I dunno. :-)
I'd guess that what you're seeing is that? I'm not on top of the wire colors.
Oh, in fact, since you got it used, it could very well have been programed for that - to output only narrowband signals.
Easy to tell, wait for it to warm up, and measure the voltages coming out of it with a voltmeter - if they never get over 2V, it's NB emulation. If it hovers around 2.5 it's 5V linear, and if it's 5V non-linear... I dunno. :-)
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12-29-2007, 08:57 PM
#82
I flagged the wires with tape if they were hanging loose. I either flagged them with the appropriate label for what they were supposed to be connected to or I flagged them to make the label easier to read. The Pink wire is for your O2 sensor. Connecting that to your stock O2 sensor will not give you good readings unless you change things in configurator.
When i put together that foolproof folder for you I setup Configurator for both firmware options for LC1 linear. I assumed Christian knew what he was doing and had reformatted your LC1 for 0-5v and 10-20:1 AFR. Easy change on your end though.
I also setup Exhaust Gas Settings for your LC1 wideband. So no need to change that around until you want to use autotune. Then just change the step size from 0 to 1.
I like the Knocksense LED position. I have mine same place as scott's.
Sorry for my lacking input today guys. Hard to find time between the beaches and family.
(looking through the rest of thread to find questions that might be unanswered)
When i put together that foolproof folder for you I setup Configurator for both firmware options for LC1 linear. I assumed Christian knew what he was doing and had reformatted your LC1 for 0-5v and 10-20:1 AFR. Easy change on your end though.
I also setup Exhaust Gas Settings for your LC1 wideband. So no need to change that around until you want to use autotune. Then just change the step size from 0 to 1.
I like the Knocksense LED position. I have mine same place as scott's.
Sorry for my lacking input today guys. Hard to find time between the beaches and family.
(looking through the rest of thread to find questions that might be unanswered)
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12-29-2007, 09:00 PM
#83
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Oh, in fact, since you got it used, it could very well have been programed for that - to output only narrowband signals.
Easy to tell, wait for it to warm up, and measure the voltages coming out of it with a voltmeter - if they never get over 2V, it's NB emulation. If it hovers around 2.5 it's 5V linear, and if it's 5V non-linear... I dunno. :-)
Oh, in fact, since you got it used, it could very well have been programed for that - to output only narrowband signals.
Easy to tell, wait for it to warm up, and measure the voltages coming out of it with a voltmeter - if they never get over 2V, it's NB emulation. If it hovers around 2.5 it's 5V linear, and if it's 5V non-linear... I dunno. :-)
It indeed was a used one and I never asked the guy that sold it to me whether he was using it as a narrowband.
I have a voltimeter so, how would I go about using it? (sorry). By 2V, which of the wires should read that?
No matter what, I still think that my best solution down the road is to disconnect this one and do it right with the next one but for now your solution would give me some peace of mind.
Thanks,
Rafa
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12-29-2007, 09:21 PM
#84
Turn your voltmeter to the setting closest to 5v, could be 5v, 10v, or 20v depending on how your meter is setup.
With the car running ground your voltmeter anywhere that can be used as a solid ground, chassis, motor w/e you have available. Then use the positive probe to check the voltage on the analog output you have available. Like abe said, if it never goes over 2v then it is setup wrong in the LC1 controller. If it reaches 2.5 v then you know it is setup for WG output. You need to find out if it is setup for default or linear though to get an accurate reading.
With the car running ground your voltmeter anywhere that can be used as a solid ground, chassis, motor w/e you have available. Then use the positive probe to check the voltage on the analog output you have available. Like abe said, if it never goes over 2v then it is setup wrong in the LC1 controller. If it reaches 2.5 v then you know it is setup for WG output. You need to find out if it is setup for default or linear though to get an accurate reading.
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12-29-2007, 09:30 PM
#85
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Turn your voltmeter to the setting closest to 5v, could be 5v, 10v, or 20v depending on how your meter is setup.
With the car running ground your voltmeter anywhere that can be used as a solid ground, chassis, motor w/e you have available. Then use the positive probe to check the voltage on the analog output you have available. Like abe said, if it never goes over 2v then it is setup wrong in the LC1 controller. If it reaches 2.5 v then you know it is setup for WG output. You need to find out if it is setup for default or linear though to get an accurate reading.
With the car running ground your voltmeter anywhere that can be used as a solid ground, chassis, motor w/e you have available. Then use the positive probe to check the voltage on the analog output you have available. Like abe said, if it never goes over 2v then it is setup wrong in the LC1 controller. If it reaches 2.5 v then you know it is setup for WG output. You need to find out if it is setup for default or linear though to get an accurate reading.
I have to read a lot more before making any sort of informed questions. In the meantime I've been reading about the fan control mod. Maybe I'll surprise you.
Thanks again and enjoy your holidays. If you keep on messing with my issues you're going to end up coming alone to visit and then we'll be forced to get you the Miata to use but a new companion. NOT GOOD. BTW, if your gf reads this post, it's all in good fun! :gay: I presume I'm already not too simpatico to her!
My apologies,
Rafa
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12-29-2007, 09:36 PM
#86
Yes, like he's saying - there's two probes on the voltmeter (black into "COM" and red into "+V"), select a range as he says, you'll want "DCV" setting to measure voltage, DC.
Then measure from (red lead on voltmeter) the output wire on the LC-1, the one you are planning running to the pink wire on the harness, and check from there to the LC-1's signal ground (black lead goes here) though any bit of clean metal in the can should likely work).
Then measure from (red lead on voltmeter) the output wire on the LC-1, the one you are planning running to the pink wire on the harness, and check from there to the LC-1's signal ground (black lead goes here) though any bit of clean metal in the can should likely work).
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12-30-2007, 11:11 AM
#87
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Yes, like he's saying - there's two probes on the voltmeter (black into "COM" and red into "+V"), select a range as he says, you'll want "DCV" setting to measure voltage, DC.
Then measure from (red lead on voltmeter) the output wire on the LC-1, the one you are planning running to the pink wire on the harness, and check from there to the LC-1's signal ground (black lead goes here) though any bit of clean metal in the can should likely work).
Then measure from (red lead on voltmeter) the output wire on the LC-1, the one you are planning running to the pink wire on the harness, and check from there to the LC-1's signal ground (black lead goes here) though any bit of clean metal in the can should likely work).
Does this make any sense?
Thanks
Rafa
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12-30-2007, 01:31 PM
#88
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open configurator. car1 settings settings lamda sensor, change to lc1 0-5v. (or default if you never changed the output).
go save open megatune.
go the basic settings.
exhaust gas settings
change narrowband to WB.
change the number below it to 2.5
burn.
AFR should read correctly.
go save open megatune.
go the basic settings.
exhaust gas settings
change narrowband to WB.
change the number below it to 2.5
burn.
AFR should read correctly.
I'm attaching a pic of the EGO controls page with the settings. The only thing that could be considered wrong was that the second column read 2.35 and not 2.5. FWIW, I don't have a config file or an msq one because Chad sent me a file already configured to my specific car the second time around.
I'm also attaching another pic of 2 wires. The pink one which is the one currently installed in my car reads 02 and the blue one, which was the one we had originally connected reads "lambda" but when the MS was connected to that one it wouldn't show any AFR readings.
Thanks
Rafa
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12-30-2007, 01:39 PM
#89
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One other thing Scott; I got in touch with the local friend who did my wire harness for the cops (BTW his name is Leonardo and I wanted to let him know how much I appreciate his input 
) and he told me that according to the instructions Chad linked me that resistor is easily found here and that he thinks the job of wiring the fan control mod is a piece of cake so I wanted to ask a few questions about that before doing it tomorrow. I don't want to have to face any issues afterwards.
Here are the questions:
1.- First step would be to disconnect the cops!
2.- Should I open my MS and take a pic so I can get precise instructions about the job?
3.- If you posted one of the MS you've built, could I assume (yeah, I know what happens to those who assume!) that the soldering would be to the same locations?
4.- Any particular instructions for connecting the MS back to the car after that job is done?
Thanks
Rafa
) and he told me that according to the instructions Chad linked me that resistor is easily found here and that he thinks the job of wiring the fan control mod is a piece of cake so I wanted to ask a few questions about that before doing it tomorrow. I don't want to have to face any issues afterwards. Here are the questions:
1.- First step would be to disconnect the cops!
2.- Should I open my MS and take a pic so I can get precise instructions about the job?
3.- If you posted one of the MS you've built, could I assume (yeah, I know what happens to those who assume!) that the soldering would be to the same locations?
4.- Any particular instructions for connecting the MS back to the car after that job is done?
Thanks
Rafa
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12-30-2007, 01:56 PM
#90
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I'm not sure why Chad labeled the one lamda...it looks like an output wire. wire your LC-1 output to the pink wire. I believe Chad confirmed this above as well.
However, you gotta go by his labels, because he could have built his harness differently than what I've published as the way I build mine. Easy thing to do would be probe with a multimeter exactly where each pin goes...once you know where it goes on the harness (say pin 27 or something) I can tell you what it's for. I build all my harnesses exactly the same so I can go by colors
for example, looking as your previous picture you have fuel pump labeled on a blue/wht wire and ebc labeled on the purple wire, however, if you look at the wire itself it say fuel pump.
I do know, that if you have ebc and knock and want fans you'll have to add another wire into your db37 harness. I have a very simple writeup on the fan mod in my "how to." The only thing you need to do differently is attach the output wire to a SP1 SP2 SP3 or SP4, instead of IAC2A, as that will already be occupied by the ebc or knock. You then have to open your db37 connector and solder a new output wire for the fan mod, then attach to you boomslang in the right spot. It's easy and this makes it sound more complicated than it is.
Still, your configurator must be set to LC1 default or your wbo2 will never look correct in MT.
However, you gotta go by his labels, because he could have built his harness differently than what I've published as the way I build mine. Easy thing to do would be probe with a multimeter exactly where each pin goes...once you know where it goes on the harness (say pin 27 or something) I can tell you what it's for. I build all my harnesses exactly the same so I can go by colors
for example, looking as your previous picture you have fuel pump labeled on a blue/wht wire and ebc labeled on the purple wire, however, if you look at the wire itself it say fuel pump.
I do know, that if you have ebc and knock and want fans you'll have to add another wire into your db37 harness. I have a very simple writeup on the fan mod in my "how to." The only thing you need to do differently is attach the output wire to a SP1 SP2 SP3 or SP4, instead of IAC2A, as that will already be occupied by the ebc or knock. You then have to open your db37 connector and solder a new output wire for the fan mod, then attach to you boomslang in the right spot. It's easy and this makes it sound more complicated than it is.
Still, your configurator must be set to LC1 default or your wbo2 will never look correct in MT.
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12-30-2007, 02:18 PM
#91
I've never labeled a wire lambda. I might have labeled a wire launch though.
You have a pink O2 wire, labeled O2 on both the wire insulation and the tape. That is for your LC1 connection.
I put 2.35 as the switch point for the LC-1 because I was told that was correct for that wideband. If 2.5 is more accurate for 14.7 then you should of course use that.
You have a pink O2 wire, labeled O2 on both the wire insulation and the tape. That is for your LC1 connection.
I put 2.35 as the switch point for the LC-1 because I was told that was correct for that wideband. If 2.5 is more accurate for 14.7 then you should of course use that.
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12-30-2007, 02:36 PM
#92
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I've never labeled a wire lambda. I might have labeled a wire launch though.
You have a pink O2 wire, labeled O2 on both the wire insulation and the tape. That is for your LC1 connection.
I put 2.35 as the switch point for the LC-1 because I was told that was correct for that wideband. If 2.5 is more accurate for 14.7 then you should of course use that.
You have a pink O2 wire, labeled O2 on both the wire insulation and the tape. That is for your LC1 connection.
I put 2.35 as the switch point for the LC-1 because I was told that was correct for that wideband. If 2.5 is more accurate for 14.7 then you should of course use that.
One question I need Chad specifically to answer is whether I will be needing any additional instructions to proceed with the fan control mod, such as type of wire or anything you may think. The high engine temps are making my car consume much more coolant than I would like.
Regards,
Rafa
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12-30-2007, 02:55 PM
#93
Rafa. Your car shouldn't be consuming coolant at all. If you are losing coolant you are either leaking it or burning it because of a blown head gasket.
For the fan mod you will be able to use standard 18 gauge wire at the MS Harness. You are going to have to use one of the SPR outputs, they're near the DB37 connector, on top of the PCB board. You will run a wire from SPR1, to the proto area and connect it as shown in this picture:
Then on the MS harness, open the DB37 connector and solder a wire to pin #3. That will be the output for the Fans. I'll have to look up the pin on the patch harness for your fans though. I'll do that tonight.
For the fan mod you will be able to use standard 18 gauge wire at the MS Harness. You are going to have to use one of the SPR outputs, they're near the DB37 connector, on top of the PCB board. You will run a wire from SPR1, to the proto area and connect it as shown in this picture:
Then on the MS harness, open the DB37 connector and solder a wire to pin #3. That will be the output for the Fans. I'll have to look up the pin on the patch harness for your fans though. I'll do that tonight.
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12-30-2007, 03:08 PM
#94
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Rafa. Your car shouldn't be consuming coolant at all. If you are losing coolant you are either leaking it or burning it because of a blown head gasket.
For the fan mod you will be able to use standard 18 gauge wire at the MS Harness. You are going to have to use one of the SPR outputs, they're near the DB37 connector, on top of the PCB board. You will run a wire from SPR1, to the proto area and connect it as shown in this picture:
Then on the MS harness, open the DB37 connector and solder a wire to pin #3. That will be the output for the Fans. I'll have to look up the pin on the patch harness for your fans though. I'll do that tonight.
For the fan mod you will be able to use standard 18 gauge wire at the MS Harness. You are going to have to use one of the SPR outputs, they're near the DB37 connector, on top of the PCB board. You will run a wire from SPR1, to the proto area and connect it as shown in this picture:
Then on the MS harness, open the DB37 connector and solder a wire to pin #3. That will be the output for the Fans. I'll have to look up the pin on the patch harness for your fans though. I'll do that tonight.
BTW, not much sleep today. Better get some rest, the 31st is fast approaching :gay:
About the LC1, I'll take my car to another shop on Wednesday and carefully go over the wiring.
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12-30-2007, 03:21 PM
#96
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Got it Scott, thank you. I still don't know wtf is wrong with my LC1; I'll revisit that issue later on when I get additional info.
You rock!
Rafa
Last edited by Rafa; 12-30-2007 at 03:32 PM.
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01-03-2008, 07:56 PM
#99
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I'm going to change the name of this thread to "the neverending story"
.
So I spent the day at the shop trying to fix some last minute issues before going back to work.
1.- We connected the LC-1 to the MS so it now reads AFRs correctly.
2.- We installed the aluminum plate as per Braineack's thread.
3.- We messed around with the car's idle settings because I've never been able to start the A/C since I went turbo without the car stalling.
Now, I don't know what settings my tuner changed on the Idle settings page but when I went to fire up the car to leave his shop by car fired up and then died. I checked on the MS and couldn't see the 2 outside leds firing up. I connected it to the laptop and couldn't get any communication. After some sweat we found out that the ignition fuse had failed. We changed that fuse and I got home. About 1 hour later, my wife has to go to the supermarket and I offered to take her (first time she was getting in my car after installing the turbo btw) and what do you know? the car fires up, stalls and dies and would not fire up again. Of course we took her car to the sm.
As soon as we came back I took out the laptop and went to the car. Once again no communication to the MS and the leds won't light up.
So I ask, which is the easiest way for me to go back to the settings Chad sent me?
I'm definitely too old for this ****!
Sorry,
Rafa
. So I spent the day at the shop trying to fix some last minute issues before going back to work.
1.- We connected the LC-1 to the MS so it now reads AFRs correctly.
2.- We installed the aluminum plate as per Braineack's thread.
3.- We messed around with the car's idle settings because I've never been able to start the A/C since I went turbo without the car stalling.
Now, I don't know what settings my tuner changed on the Idle settings page but when I went to fire up the car to leave his shop by car fired up and then died. I checked on the MS and couldn't see the 2 outside leds firing up. I connected it to the laptop and couldn't get any communication. After some sweat we found out that the ignition fuse had failed. We changed that fuse and I got home. About 1 hour later, my wife has to go to the supermarket and I offered to take her (first time she was getting in my car after installing the turbo btw) and what do you know? the car fires up, stalls and dies and would not fire up again. Of course we took her car to the sm.
As soon as we came back I took out the laptop and went to the car. Once again no communication to the MS and the leds won't light up.
So I ask, which is the easiest way for me to go back to the settings Chad sent me?
I'm definitely too old for this ****!
Sorry,
Rafa
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