TLG

iTrader: (1)

Warning: This thread will be filled with stupid noob questions, but that's why I'm here. To get help from you guys. Instead of making a new thread for every little problem I encounter, I'll keep them all contained in this single thread to prevent clutter. Hopefully this will eventually be a good place for other's to look for info in the future as well.

The car has been turbo'd 1.6 for almost a year and a half with no issues. Was previously running a stock ECU and fuel pump, 1.8 tan top injectors, and Begi FMU.

This is my first time dealing with MS and so far, it has been rather straightforward and simple. The board was easily assembled and firmware was flashed according to diyautotune's instructions. The fuel pump turns on, and I get readings from megatune for various parameters when the car is simply turned to the on position.

My current set up:
1.6 motor, T25 turbo, FMIC, RX7 550cc injectors, Walboro 190 fuel pump, GM AIT with removed AFM, Innovate LC-1 wideband

My first 2 issues are as follows:
1. The car won't crank at all. ST_SIGN fuse is pulled under the hood as per instructions but get nothing when the key is turned. This should remain pulled as it could fry certain resistors on the board correct?

2. I get no readings when attempting to calibrate the TPS. Fully closed, it reads 7 and at WOT it also reads 7. ECU was flashed with MS2/Extra code and set up for Microsquirt.

All I have attempted to use thus far (this evening) is Megatune. Should I be using Tunerstudio to correct these communication errors? I believe I read something along those lines in the readme file.

I'll be checking this regularly to keep the conversation going and hopefully be able to give you guys answers and the info you need ASAP. Thanks in advance!

Dlaitini

for the #2 question.. i am not seeing anything about the throttle body being removed or replaced

unless the car is an automatic, the stock throttle body does not have a throttle position sensor for megasquirt to see

For question 1, if you swap the stock computer back in, put the fuse back in, and put the stock injectors in, does the car still start up?

ianferrell

1. Hows your battery? The megasquirt shouldn't make any difference in your ability to turn the car over... disconnect it and try to crank it over if you don't believe me

2. Yeah... you need to disconnect the stock 1.6 (5 speed) tps or risk hurting the 5v 'tps sig' output which is actually on the microsquirt module.... not the 5v regulator on the diy pnp board.

And yeah, go ahead and get tunerstudio.

Ben

iTrader: (33)

The start circuit does not run through the ECU at all. If your starter isn't engaging, it's likely to be an unrelated wiring problem, bad relay, or discharged battery.
Do *not* reinstall your ST_SIG fuse with the DIYPNP installed. You will burn up a component inside the DIYPNP if you do.


Your car was not factory equipped with a variable TPS. If you've followed the build guide that we published for your car, it has instructions that show how to bypass the TPS sensor to keep it at a "fake" static value. You can install a variable TPS if you'd like, but it's not necessary. If you do, it opens up a few more tuning options.

Yes, you should be using TunerStudio and not MegaTune. This particularly applies if you're running 3.0.3 or 3.1.0 firmware. I recommend 3.1.0.

TLG

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. Thanks guys, I will try all this tonight and get back with results as to what worked and the next step is.

TLG

iTrader: (1)

Car is cranking just fine. Turns out a relay was removed for an alarm that was installed years ago that was preventing it from turning over.

Disconnected the TPS and set the values at 254 min 255 max. Correct? What should the other base settings be set at? I have the base map msq for 460cc injectors loaded.

Fired it up in tuner studio and started calibrating everything and then after setting up the LC-1, the car began to cycle when the key was in the on position. The fuel pump kept priming, starter clicking, etc as though it was being placed in the "on" position over and over. Ideas?

dean.L

Hi

Hopefully someone has had the same problems as me, I have connected everthing as the manual says etc I have the setting right as far as I know but my wideband wont show a signal in megatune, I have 2.3 v coming out of the controller (Aem) Tried an LC1 too wont work at all

I assume pin 10 is the 2nd pin from the left at the bottom when looking at the back of the plug (where the wires exit)

Any help would be appreciated as I am thinking of burning the car

TLG

iTrader: (1)

Well, surging problem is fixed. I went to the old standby and reinstalled the firmware. Took the ecu out and plugged it in inside the house to mess with it. I don't know why I didn't just do that in the first place. Soooo much simpler and less stressful.

dean.L

Wired it straight into the mazda loom and it works straight away.
I can only assume the ecu cant see the signal through pin 10 ?
not really bothered as long as it works

TLG

iTrader: (1)

Next problem!

The injector relays are now clicking along with corrupted firmware similar to this thread here: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/relays-clicking-rapidly-key-run-position%3B-no-start-44405/

The basemap I have loaded is the one from DIYautotune and firmware was the MS2extra_alpha_303t.

Why are these conflicting and can someone link me to a solid basemap/firmware combo?

Attached are the errors i'm receiving.

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

I've attached my msq to get you started. I made it from scratch because, as you're seeing, the basemap doesn't match the latest firmware. Not a huge deal, but it'll be one less thing for you to worry about. Export any tables you need from the old one first and import them later. And of course change any relevant settings for your setup. Mine is from a '97 1.8.

The fuel pump relay/radiator fan running is how MS tells you there is a conflict. You need to double check all of your settings to include outputs that aren't enabled (annoying) to make sure that you're not utilizing the same outputs twice. Make a table of what function using what output to help. You may need to double check your wiring as well. If you used the DIY instructions and have sequential, ebc added, read here: https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquirt-18/just-note-pa0-boost-control-output-conflicts-53549/

TLG

iTrader: (1)

Fantastic. Thank you so much. I'll update tomorrow with the results!

drmmr04

ok, since tlg is at work right now ill go ahead and continue with this thread. first of all hi, my name is chris and i live with tyler and im trying to help get this project going. its my first time dealing with tunerstudio and megasquirt for that matter. well we have the latest firmware uplaoded to the controler (3.1.0) although i can switch back to the 3.0.3t if necessary. @Messiahx, loaded the base map you provided and that seems to have almost completely cured the relay clicking problem, at first the clicking was a fast, constant clicking but after your basemap, the clicking only happens every 3 seconds or so. ther first thing it showed after burning the values in was this:

i think that might have something to do with the new firmware code but im not 100%

edit: also hear buzzing coming from cyl 2 and 3, can hear it louder when the wires are pulled out of those cylinders. could not see any spark coming out of them though and tach in car fluctuating when key is in the on position.

messiahx

iTrader: (2)

I believe I have 3.0.3t or u, so that is probably why you're getting the EAElagRPMblahblahblah message. I didn't realize there was a 3.1 version out. What relay is clicking? And for the buzzing, I'd bet it's the IAC. If your settings are incorrect for that it'll buzz like hell. Cylinders can't buzz.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Turn boost control off JS10. That's your cam input.


The second screen is normal, ignore.

drmmr04

ok, so we went ahead and went back to the 3.0.3t firmware with Messiahx's msq and so far no clicking but still have an issue with the tach jumping around in the car and now the fuel pump does not prime with the key on. how would i go about changing the settings to where the fuel pump cycles with the key on the on position

drmmr04

finally got the car back from getting the cage built in the car so now we have some time to get back to figuring this out so time for an update.

i figured out that the reason why the car had that fast clicking noise, its was the PWM idle setting on ms, when i was entering in each value manually, i got to that and it started making the sound so i took the basemap for the 440cc injectors off diyautotune off the site and modified it and now with the key foward no fast clicking noise. so we go to try and start the car and every couple seconds while the car is cranking, there is a click coming from what seems like the dash. so i take a log of whats going on while im cranking the car and from what i see, MS isnt seeing the signal form the cam sensor correctly? any ideas?

the .msl file is attached. theres a short time before i start cranking it but you can see where its pulsing while i crank it. if the .msl file doesn't help then i can take a video while the car is cranking