MS3 na cas sync problem?
#43
I'll give that a whirl tonight, pretty sure I had it set that way at first and it didn't work, but who knows. Went ahead and ordered a buncha caps from newark to mess with, it looks like its just not filtered enough, gets a big rpm spike before losing sync (to me that says its getting two pulses when it should be getting one). Do you know what values work well with a CAS? The 1nf ones that are in there work for a while, once clt is in the 145-150 range it starts doing it every 15-30 seconds, and just keeps getting more frequent the warmer it goes. Hopefully its just these radioshack ceramic caps... need to go ahead and get the trackspeed wheel coming anyway.
No great rush anymore tho, looks like we're going to put the new SC on my brothers car, prolly this weekend, so we'll have an SSM car to autocross this year. (of course its gonna need a 1.8 rear swap and clutch, weee.)
No great rush anymore tho, looks like we're going to put the new SC on my brothers car, prolly this weekend, so we'll have an SSM car to autocross this year. (of course its gonna need a 1.8 rear swap and clutch, weee.)
#45
Yeah... tried 2.2nf caps, and got the same thing after it was more warmed up. I'm thinking that its just hopeless, Just don't do it. I haven't seen anyone that's actually happy with the abefm circuit on a cas...
I went ahead and soldered up the normal miata opto crank and pullup cam setup. Trackspeed wheel is coming, so I'll eventually change it back to the oe nb input circuit, but for now I'm thinking this will be enough for me to get a comfortable tune in, and drive the car a little.
I went ahead and soldered up the normal miata opto crank and pullup cam setup. Trackspeed wheel is coming, so I'll eventually change it back to the oe nb input circuit, but for now I'm thinking this will be enough for me to get a comfortable tune in, and drive the car a little.
#46
So anyway, got the other circuit built (the traditional one) And now it doesn't ever lose sync, Yay!
But, it doesn't want to start when warm. ****** idled like a damn champ and I got a little ve analyze live tuning done by dragging the clutch with the ebrake on (lol, I have a new clutch ready to go in and I didn't really do it that much).... I was all set to take it for a drive and it doesn't want to start, tries to start almost immediately, but then falls on its face when it gets off cranking pulse. Looked/acted really lean. so I bumped up the fuel in the idle cells. bumped it up some more... up to about 30% and it seems like its close to wanting to run now. but I'm at 95% ve. fail.
I pulled the coils off and they're still firing like champs. I'm thinking something wonky w/ the injectors? I f'd w/ cranking pulse, ASE, WUE.... none of it made a significant difference (adjusted within reasonable limits) It was running great then nothing... gotta be something hardware related, imo. Pulsewidths were where it had been when it was idling earlier, its just like its lean as crap now.
So I have some other injectors, prolly going to try those tonight... or I might clean some stock ones and try that, idk.
It just doesn't make sense, and I feel crazy blaming the injectors... but I can't point at anything else. As it was getting up to temp, I killed and restarted it a few times and it'd light right off... The other thing that makes me thing I need to try different injectors anyway is that I'm basically using the diyautotune 94-95 sequential maps, and had to set my req_fuel to 14+ to get it run right. I'm using rx8 yellow injectors (that I have cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner while pulsing them with a basic stamp driving a tip120.... cleaning actually helped smooth it out a lot)
But, it doesn't want to start when warm. ****** idled like a damn champ and I got a little ve analyze live tuning done by dragging the clutch with the ebrake on (lol, I have a new clutch ready to go in and I didn't really do it that much).... I was all set to take it for a drive and it doesn't want to start, tries to start almost immediately, but then falls on its face when it gets off cranking pulse. Looked/acted really lean. so I bumped up the fuel in the idle cells. bumped it up some more... up to about 30% and it seems like its close to wanting to run now. but I'm at 95% ve. fail.
I pulled the coils off and they're still firing like champs. I'm thinking something wonky w/ the injectors? I f'd w/ cranking pulse, ASE, WUE.... none of it made a significant difference (adjusted within reasonable limits) It was running great then nothing... gotta be something hardware related, imo. Pulsewidths were where it had been when it was idling earlier, its just like its lean as crap now.
So I have some other injectors, prolly going to try those tonight... or I might clean some stock ones and try that, idk.
It just doesn't make sense, and I feel crazy blaming the injectors... but I can't point at anything else. As it was getting up to temp, I killed and restarted it a few times and it'd light right off... The other thing that makes me thing I need to try different injectors anyway is that I'm basically using the diyautotune 94-95 sequential maps, and had to set my req_fuel to 14+ to get it run right. I'm using rx8 yellow injectors (that I have cleaned in my ultrasonic cleaner while pulsing them with a basic stamp driving a tip120.... cleaning actually helped smooth it out a lot)
Last edited by ianferrell; 12-15-2010 at 11:06 AM.
#48
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No, take 2 of the MS3X's outputs and connect them to the 2 coils - each coil fires 2 plugs, but it's wasted spark so you only need 2 signals.
If/When you convert to COPS you can use 2 more of the MS3X spark outputs and run full sequential.
If/When you convert to COPS you can use 2 more of the MS3X spark outputs and run full sequential.
#52
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No, since only like 4-5 guys are even on MS3X and all went seq.
but that's how you'd do it, use spark A & B and wire to each pair. Use the LED circuits for something else... why go out of your way to wire up circuits that are already built on the ms3x board?
but that's how you'd do it, use spark A & B and wire to each pair. Use the LED circuits for something else... why go out of your way to wire up circuits that are already built on the ms3x board?
#54
Thanks guys, that's one question answered.
As I wont need Joe's spark circuit, should I just follow the standard GUIDE Step28 a-g ? or do I leave this step out?
As I wont need Joe's spark circuit, should I just follow the standard GUIDE Step28 a-g ? or do I leave this step out?
#56
So basically follow Franks' build leave out step 65 completely?
What's confusing me is following Franks guide and not needing Joe's IGN circuit, do I then install as per step 65 on the Megamanual or leave that out as well, due to using MS3x sparks?
Back on to CAS, same as above in step 50 ????? Franks CAM/Crank circuit or leave out?
What's confusing me is following Franks guide and not needing Joe's IGN circuit, do I then install as per step 65 on the Megamanual or leave that out as well, due to using MS3x sparks?
Back on to CAS, same as above in step 50 ????? Franks CAM/Crank circuit or leave out?
#57
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No one has written a guide for MS3 exclusively. but most of the MSII write-ups can be used, since there isnt much difference between the two, but firmware and features.
I didn't say follow Frank's guide, but I did say populate only those that I pictured from his guide. You'll need to then add the tach input circuit for a 4g6e CAS setup and you can pretty much be done with the mainboard, unless you wanna use the three LED circuits for something.
The MS3X will handle: idle, fuel, spark, and any other inputs/outputs you might add extra.
I didn't say follow Frank's guide, but I did say populate only those that I pictured from his guide. You'll need to then add the tach input circuit for a 4g6e CAS setup and you can pretty much be done with the mainboard, unless you wanna use the three LED circuits for something.
The MS3X will handle: idle, fuel, spark, and any other inputs/outputs you might add extra.