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MS3 PnP build

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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 09:46 PM
  #21  
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Ah man... Why didn't I think of that... I got me an ugly *** adapter cable wrapped in black tape.
Old Oct 20, 2011 | 11:12 PM
  #22  
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After getting permission from Jason I have had a PCB printed for the alternator control circuit incorporating the dash light driver. If anyone is interested, when I receive them I'll post up some pics.
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 02:18 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by y8s
the output of the known working alternator circuit that goes to the field coil to the place in the above where it says +12 and the output of the above to the field coil and then set the output to only be enabled for over 450 rpm so it doesn't charge during cranking and make your belt squeal for 20 seconds every time you start your car.
The alternator control is NOT your issue. My board tried to charge from 0rpms and up (a failsafe system, in case the tach signal gets lots etc), and I have no belt squeal. Nor do any of the cars that use my MS2s.
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 05:11 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by saboteur
After getting permission from Jason I have had a PCB printed for the alternator control circuit incorporating the dash light driver. If anyone is interested, when I receive them I'll post up some pics.
Did you make them so they slide in the case?
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 06:27 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by saboteur
After getting permission from Jason I have had a PCB printed for the alternator control circuit incorporating the dash light driver. If anyone is interested, when I receive them I'll post up some pics.
Well I'm interested (and also in purchasing one if it becomes available)
Old Oct 21, 2011 | 10:20 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Reverant
The alternator control is NOT your issue. My board tried to charge from 0rpms and up (a failsafe system, in case the tach signal gets lots etc), and I have no belt squeal. Nor do any of the cars that use my MS2s.
Maybe it's not, but now it doesn't squeal at startup. Whatever the belt tightness is combined with the additional load from the alternator at startup was making it squeal. Since I don't have a belt tension gauge or the ability to decrease the load from the water pump... I did it my way.

And as a bonus, when the engine tries to stall, it doesn't die as easily.
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 08:01 AM
  #27  
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Here is a quick shot from my iPhone, these boards are tiny:



Now I'll stop derailing your thread!
Attached Thumbnails MS3 PnP build-photo.jpg  
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 08:48 AM
  #28  
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Want!
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 08:55 AM
  #29  
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Y8s and I discussed doing these, stamped, but we never got around to it due to our shear laziness.

Let me know about how to secure a few of them...
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #30  
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only design change I would have suggested is a teenie tiny high quality multi turn trim pot to set the final voltage.

that said, can I have one?
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #31  
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also I would use an axial capacitor (ie layed down) to reduce the height of the board so you can slide it (upside down) in the top slot of the case.
Old Oct 31, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #32  
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Let me populate one to make sure it works first. I like the idea of changing the footprint to suit a MegaSquirt case. The trim pot and axial cap changes could be implemented too.

These ones I have now (assuming they work alright) will be good for chucking in a small plastic sealed hobby box and using for any aftermarket ECU. I'm planning to use one with the Adaptronic in my track pig.

Jason should take the credit for this as it is his circuit. All David and I have done is lay it out so it looks pretty.
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