Pretty sure it is. Same cam sensor, only moved to back of valve cover instead of the cam gear due to VVT.

 

well if someone wants to get a log of the pattern, pretty sure they will develop the code for it for the ms3.

 

If I had the ability to do so, you know I would

 

I really really appreciate the info in this thread. Like EO2k, this stuff is well beyond my comprehension and the spoon feeding really helps.

Just to make sure I understand (before I go hacking up my brand new $125 trigger wheel and make it even more useless)... your suggestion is to hack off the 2 "extra" triggers and make it a 12-1, correct?

 

Only if you want to run batch injection and wasted spark, with no cam sensor. Any "generic" wheel (36-1, 36-2, 12-1, etc) is inherently a little bit of a hack job on a Miata, with varying degrees of "gotcha." And also, we'll need to specifically calculate which tooth to cut off. It's been a while since I played with the custom wheel decoder thingy.

Can anyone provide me with an accurate diagram of the location of the NB crank sensor relative to the engine / plate, preferably with some info as to how many degrees ATDC the sensor itself is?

 

Tomorrow I can check relative to the 36-1 wheel I have.

each tooth and gap is 10 degrees apart, so it will be easy for me to count, provided the sensor sits dead on a tooth or gap.

 

Are there any manufacturer other than TODA who make adjustable cam gear with trigger for the intake side?

 

How cheap do you want to go? There's BLOX brand for $150 a pair:

Adjustable Cam Gear Mazda Miata MX5 Protege Escort 1 6L 1 8L 2 Pcs B6 BP NB6 8 | eBay

 

post up adjustable cam gear options! - MX-5 Miata Forum

SR Motorsports Mazda Miata Parts. Miata Performance Engine Parts.
Maruha Motors Cam Gear
Fidanza Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gear (1994-2000)
OBX Racing Product Name - OBX Racing Sports

Probably more in that thread...

 

orlmiata specifically asked for gears that incorporated the trigger bumps required for use on the intake side of a '99-'00 Miata, wherein the CMP sensor reads the intake cam pulley rather than the cam itself.

 

Thanks..

I have searched google with every combination of search phrase I can think of but find that only TODA has the triggers. There is the blox that you mentioned, but has gotten bad reviews in other forums. I was just looking to if anyone else had come across other makers.
The performance gain worth the money for the TODA's?

 

Sorry, I thought most of those listed it as an option. My baaaaad

 

On closer review, it looks like the ones from SR Motorsports may support this, I'm guessing you have to install some taller bolts into those three holes?



The rest do not appear to.

 

The angle was measured using a 36-1 trigger wheel. From the very top, I counted 11 teeth to the sensor when positioned with a credit card gap (despite what the picture shows, there is indeed a gap).

Since each tooth is 10° from one another, the angle of the sensor would then be 110° ATDC. It can be argued by the poor quality photo that the sensor location is just slightly after 110° but it is within 5° (the angle between the center of the tooth and the center of the gap).

Just as a reference, tooth #1 of the SuperMiata Damper/Trigger wheel is positioned 180° from TDC

Crank at TDC


the 11th tooth falling on the sensor


Obligatory shot of tooth #1 positioned 180° from TDC



I hope at least some of this is useful

 

Can I use the Crank Sensor off my 97 on the 99 I am installing? The part numbers are different and they look different too but I wonder if they are functionally the same.
Also I am going to buy the 99 CAM angle sensor, but cannot find the wiring connector. Does anyone know where I can get one or what type of connector is used?

 

if you can actually mount it properly, yes.

 

Check out the Connector Witch Hunt thread, I think I saw that one on the spreadsheet in there.

 

They are quite different internally, and are not interchangeable in an OEM ECU context, though with most aftermarket ECUs they are able to be interchanged.

The '95-'97 cars use a "bare" VR sensor on the crank (literally just a bar magnet with a coil of wire wrapped around it, encased in plastic.) This sensor has a differential output which produces an AC waveform between the Y/B and Y/W wires. The third terminal at the connector is just a shield, and is not functionally active in the circuit (the output signal of the sensor is not referenced to it.)

The '99-'05 crank sensor is a "conditioned" sensor, much like the CAS of the earlier cars. It has an open-collector output which produces a squarewave signal when supplied with an external pullup voltage.

The cam sensor on the '99-'05 cars is electrically identical to the crank sensor.





It's a Yazaki SSD series, part number 7283-8730-30.

Here's a link: Yazaki SSD Sealed Connector Series 3 Position Female Housing [Black]

The pins are sold separately: Yazaki SSD Sealed Connector Series Female Terminal 0.3-0.5 mm2 [Tin Plating]

With terminals of this nature, where you don't have the proper crimp tool, it's advisable to buy more than you need, because you will be screwing some of them up. Eg: if you need 3, buy 20. They're quite cheap, right until the point where you run out of them.

And here are the fancy back-seals: Yazaki SSD Sealed Connector Series Wire Seal 0.3-0.5 mm2 [Brown]

 

Ben, why does diyautotune support the FM wheel when FM doesn't sell Megasquirt ecu's?
I realise it's not diy writing the code, but I'm sure it was diy who asked for the code to be written for FM's wheel.
Why don't you support the oem Mazda 36-2 wheel? It's cheaper then FM's, available from any Mazda dealer and a straight fit on a miata.
For the price of having one FM wheel shipped overhere, I can buy 3 oem's at the local dealership!

 

because tons of people with FM wheels bothered diy enough to get them to develop the code for the pattern of it.