MS3X and sequential injection
And its direct fit, and OEM quality, and cheap and... and... and... 
Brain keeps telling us to get a composite log of the wheels and he would prod DIY to write the code.

Brain keeps telling us to get a composite log of the wheels and he would prod DIY to write the code.
FM's 36-2 wheel is $24.95 retail. The Protege 36-1 wheel is $21.68 retail.
FM's wheel fits both stock and ATI pulleys. The Protege wheel fits only stock pulley.
The FM trigger arrangement has been coded into both MS3 and MS2. I love you guys and want to do everything I can, but I have a very hard time asking the code developers to do all the work in order to save $3.27 on a trigger wheel. Especially when the vast majority of users won't be running a non-stock trigger arrangement.
Sure, you can order the Protege wheel for less from Mazda Comp (I haven't looked it up, but I'm sure there's some discount available). If that's what you want to do, why not knock off 2 teeth on the NB cam sensor, or add a modified 1 tooth NA cas, or use a 4/1 protege distributor as a cas?
I see A LOT of options here that don't require code work. Development resources are finite in the real world. We're working on some things right now that are WAY cool. Seriously, you want us working on this new stuff, and not taking time away to write a wheel decoder that only a few people will use. If we were to write a new wheel decoder, I'm thinking that the 949/SuperMiata damper wheel is probably the one to go for, as those with stock pulleys can spend the extra $3.27 and get the FM wheel.
FM's wheel fits both stock and ATI pulleys. The Protege wheel fits only stock pulley.
The FM trigger arrangement has been coded into both MS3 and MS2. I love you guys and want to do everything I can, but I have a very hard time asking the code developers to do all the work in order to save $3.27 on a trigger wheel. Especially when the vast majority of users won't be running a non-stock trigger arrangement.
Sure, you can order the Protege wheel for less from Mazda Comp (I haven't looked it up, but I'm sure there's some discount available). If that's what you want to do, why not knock off 2 teeth on the NB cam sensor, or add a modified 1 tooth NA cas, or use a 4/1 protege distributor as a cas?
I see A LOT of options here that don't require code work. Development resources are finite in the real world. We're working on some things right now that are WAY cool. Seriously, you want us working on this new stuff, and not taking time away to write a wheel decoder that only a few people will use. If we were to write a new wheel decoder, I'm thinking that the 949/SuperMiata damper wheel is probably the one to go for, as those with stock pulleys can spend the extra $3.27 and get the FM wheel.
I have the OP's MS3X now. Started it for the first time today but it runs super rough like it's only one 2 cylinders but all plug wires are on correctly and all 4 exhaust headers are getting hot at the same rate.
For future reference 96/97 setups should use the "99-05" setting.
I have the OP's MS3X now. Started it for the first time today but it runs super rough like it's only one 2 cylinders but all plug wires are on correctly and all 4 exhaust headers are getting hot at the same rate.
I have the OP's MS3X now. Started it for the first time today but it runs super rough like it's only one 2 cylinders but all plug wires are on correctly and all 4 exhaust headers are getting hot at the same rate.

I don't have much for you on this one but your post may have just saved me some frustration. I'll be following and rooting for ya
Yeah, mine on the DIYPNP was crazyshitrough when I first got it started. I think I found an idle tuning guide here or on MX5Nuts that was a huge help, but can't seem to find it now.
For future reference 96/97 setups should use the "99-05" setting.
I have the OP's MS3X now. Started it for the first time today but it runs super rough like it's only one 2 cylinders but all plug wires are on correctly and all 4 exhaust headers are getting hot at the same rate.
I have the OP's MS3X now. Started it for the first time today but it runs super rough like it's only one 2 cylinders but all plug wires are on correctly and all 4 exhaust headers are getting hot at the same rate.
All NA Miatas with stock NA trigger configurations will use the 4G63 input settings.
All NB Miatas with stock NB trigger configurations will use the Miata 99-05 input settings.
There are no exceptions to these rules.
You need to fix this urgently and then troubleshoot your tach input setup. Your NA will NEVER run correctly with NB trigger configuration unless you actually have installed NB triggers.
I wasn't sure if your sarcasm would be picked up by everyone. So only the part where it's used on a 96-97.
Uhm... No.
All NA Miatas with stock NA trigger configurations will use the 4G63 input settings.
All NB Miatas with stock NB trigger configurations will use the Miata 99-05 input settings.
There are no exceptions to these rules.
You need to fix this urgently and then troubleshoot your tach input setup. Your NA will NEVER run correctly with NB trigger configuration unless you actually have installed NB triggers.
All NA Miatas with stock NA trigger configurations will use the 4G63 input settings.
All NB Miatas with stock NB trigger configurations will use the Miata 99-05 input settings.
There are no exceptions to these rules.
You need to fix this urgently and then troubleshoot your tach input setup. Your NA will NEVER run correctly with NB trigger configuration unless you actually have installed NB triggers.
I know my Reverent MS3 can work with OE 4 tooth, 12-1 or 36-1 in batch only and I'm okay with it. Now, having something hard coded with sequential and with better resolution then stock will be more than adequate. Also, 949 and Trackspeed are offering 12+1 an 36-1 wheel so it will need some dremel and ditch 2 nubs on my NB CMP sensor.
What if I tune the car with a 4 tooth, can I upgrade to another wheel in the future and will it affect my tune ?
Sorry for all those question...
Last edited by joyrider; Mar 3, 2014 at 01:11 PM.
As long as you correctly set the base timing with both of them with a timing light, the tune will be unaffected.
So I did install the new damper and trigger wheel, ground 2 nubs from the intake cam and setup semi sequential and wasted spark but TS ask me to disable my knock sensor... It works good tho but I would like to keep this protection. Is it something that you see from older firmware? I think I never updated the firmware in my ms3 basic.
EDIT: I think it has something to do with my trigger wheel arangement, from msextra seem like I have to choose dual wheel with missing tooth... will try
EDIT: I think it has something to do with my trigger wheel arangement, from msextra seem like I have to choose dual wheel with missing tooth... will try
Last edited by joyrider; Jun 28, 2014 at 05:37 AM.
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