My MS install
#21
I'm not having any problems using the switched 12V going into the radio for the relay. But I took the radio out a while ago so the 12V wasn't doing anything else. Your relay setup looks good to me!!!
MegaTune 2.25 should work with most of the recent editions of MSnS-Extra. You need to install MegaTune 2.25, then go to where you unzipped the MSnS-E file and run the "edit settings" DOS application to change the Mt settings to run MSnS-E as the default (also do youre wideband sensor there as well). Save the file that you have opened.
Then run the "copyini" DOS application to copy the s19 file that is in your MSnS-E folder into MegaTune 2.25.
After that, you should be good to go.
Just remember though that if you are creating your own msq file, open MegaTune and then open the default msq file that is back in where you unzipped your MSnS-E file. Then make your changes to that file.
Steve
MegaTune 2.25 should work with most of the recent editions of MSnS-Extra. You need to install MegaTune 2.25, then go to where you unzipped the MSnS-E file and run the "edit settings" DOS application to change the Mt settings to run MSnS-E as the default (also do youre wideband sensor there as well). Save the file that you have opened.
Then run the "copyini" DOS application to copy the s19 file that is in your MSnS-E folder into MegaTune 2.25.
After that, you should be good to go.
Just remember though that if you are creating your own msq file, open MegaTune and then open the default msq file that is back in where you unzipped your MSnS-E file. Then make your changes to that file.
Steve
#23
Originally Posted by saboteur
Steve,
Do you live in Brisbane, and if so what is your favourite beer?
This MegaSquirt stuff looks great, I'll be sure to consider it when it comes to getting aftermarket management. Do you have any pics of the mods you've done to on the PCB?
Cheers,
Tim
Do you live in Brisbane, and if so what is your favourite beer?
This MegaSquirt stuff looks great, I'll be sure to consider it when it comes to getting aftermarket management. Do you have any pics of the mods you've done to on the PCB?
Cheers,
Tim
The MS really is a brilliant little ECU. It does everything that I need, it's an amazing learning experience and it's the best bang-for-buck mod that I've ever tried.
The other MS install topic on this forum has pictures of the board mods that are required to get the CAS signal, the spark output and the idle control. Feel free to get in contact with me if you decide to go the MS route.
Steve
Last edited by Aussie Driver; 03-14-2006 at 07:24 AM.
#25
This link might be of some value:
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16655
I'm thinking I'll buy both sides and create a short harness that plugs in where the stock ECU plugs in. From there it will have wires running to both the MegaSquirt and the stock ECU if it is retained. This means that I can revert back easily, and best of all I can do all the soldering at my desk!
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=16655
BTW, All of these are www.amp.com part numbers.
This is what you plug your OEM 96/97 connectors into:-
174915-6 76-position multilock mating assembly
You run wires from this to OEM wiring harness connectors which are:-
174516-6 26-position pin receptacle
174515-6 22-position pin receptacle
174514-6 16-podition pin receptacle
174913-6 12-position pin receptacle
And these are the pins:-
173631-1 .070 series receptacle contact
173716-1 .040 series receptacle contact
This is what you plug your OEM 96/97 connectors into:-
174915-6 76-position multilock mating assembly
You run wires from this to OEM wiring harness connectors which are:-
174516-6 26-position pin receptacle
174515-6 22-position pin receptacle
174514-6 16-podition pin receptacle
174913-6 12-position pin receptacle
And these are the pins:-
173631-1 .070 series receptacle contact
173716-1 .040 series receptacle contact
#26
Hey Steve,
On the DIYAutoTune site you mentioned it says you need (1) 1k 1/4w resistor and (2) 470 ohm 1/4w resistors, but you said you used (3) 1k 1/4w resistors. Should I just do as the site says or should I substitute the 470 ohm resistors for 1k ones?
Thanks again mate!
Originally Posted by Aussie Driver
Then you need to get 3 1K 1/4 watt resistors to complete the board mod for the CAS
Thanks again mate!
#27
That's interesting. When I did the mod the diy site said to use 3 1k 1/4 w resistors. Now they seemed to have changed their mind..... Interesting.
I'm using the 3 1 K 1/4 w resistors and I haven't had any issues with my spark control at all. So I guess you could go either way.
I wouldn't mind knowing why they made the change on the diy site though....
I'm using the 3 1 K 1/4 w resistors and I haven't had any issues with my spark control at all. So I guess you could go either way.
I wouldn't mind knowing why they made the change on the diy site though....
#28
This thread talks a little bit about the instructions changing:
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=18883
Edit: I posted this too soon, I realise you've read that since you replied to it too!
http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=18883
Edit: I posted this too soon, I realise you've read that since you replied to it too!
#29
I like your method of piggybacking connections and having quick disconnects. I also plan on using this method. Out of curiousity where did you mount your MS? It seems like if it's mounted close to the stock ECU then your MAP sensor vacuum line is going to be pretty long (10' or so). I'd think this would cause troubles tuning. If you mount it in the engine bay the wiring seems like it would be considerably more nasty. Just looking for what other folks decided to do. I want to go full MSnS, and keep the stock ECU for diagnostics (emissions laws require me to have it).
Thanks,
Ark.
P.S. I'm Arkmage_Newbie around m.n
Thanks,
Ark.
P.S. I'm Arkmage_Newbie around m.n
#31
The line to the MAP sensor can be as long as you want it to be. I'm pretty sure that it was the guys from Flyin Miata who did the really long vacuum line experiment. I have mounted my MS next to the OEM computer. The MS and the DB37 jumper cable happily fit under the plate in the passenger's footwell.
And my car drives as well as it used to on the factory computer while using less fuel and sounding really cool on the over-run, so tuning isn't really an issue with the long vac line.
And my car drives as well as it used to on the factory computer while using less fuel and sounding really cool on the over-run, so tuning isn't really an issue with the long vac line.
#32
Originally Posted by Aussie Driver
The line to the MAP sensor can be as long as you want it to be. I'm pretty sure that it was the guys from Flyin Miata who did the really long vacuum line experiment. I have mounted my MS next to the OEM computer. The MS and the DB37 jumper cable happily fit under the plate in the passenger's footwell.
And my car drives as well as it used to on the factory computer while using less fuel and sounding really cool on the over-run, so tuning isn't really an issue with the long vac line.
And my car drives as well as it used to on the factory computer while using less fuel and sounding really cool on the over-run, so tuning isn't really an issue with the long vac line.
#33
Hey Steve,
Just another one, I read through your thread again and I saw you've spliced the power wires so they run to both the MegaSquirt and factory ECU. Does the factory ECU need any of the other wires that the MegaSquirt uses, or are they simply cut?
For example do I run the tach and/or TPS wires to both the factory ECU and MegaSquirt, or do I just cut those wires and hook them in only to the MegaSquirt?
Cheers
Just another one, I read through your thread again and I saw you've spliced the power wires so they run to both the MegaSquirt and factory ECU. Does the factory ECU need any of the other wires that the MegaSquirt uses, or are they simply cut?
For example do I run the tach and/or TPS wires to both the factory ECU and MegaSquirt, or do I just cut those wires and hook them in only to the MegaSquirt?
Cheers
#34
The CAS wires are cut
The OEM coolant temp is shared
The OEM AIT is still connected
The OEM injector and coil wires are cut
The OEM grounds are shared
The OEM power is shared
The variable TPS is MS'd only the remaining ones go to the OEM
I've reconnected the fuel pump to the OEM
and I think that's about it.
If I've forgotten anything that you need then let me know.
The OEM coolant temp is shared
The OEM AIT is still connected
The OEM injector and coil wires are cut
The OEM grounds are shared
The OEM power is shared
The variable TPS is MS'd only the remaining ones go to the OEM
I've reconnected the fuel pump to the OEM
and I think that's about it.
If I've forgotten anything that you need then let me know.
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