My MS Install - 90 Miata
#43
Yes the 90-93 is more of a switch.
You could wire up a Automatic TPS for a 1.6L Miata or Proto. But the
MS does Map accel and that works just as well. The only real need for a
TPS is for flooding problems which the Miata really doesn't have.
The 470K Resistor keeps the TPS from walking by itself.
You could wire up a Automatic TPS for a 1.6L Miata or Proto. But the
MS does Map accel and that works just as well. The only real need for a
TPS is for flooding problems which the Miata really doesn't have.
The 470K Resistor keeps the TPS from walking by itself.
#44
Was this install done as a complete ecu replacement or does the MS function in parallel with the stock ecu?
I am asking because looking over the wiring diagrams, it seems like the ecu deals with quite a bit besides fuel/spark and a/c related idle control. I see a/c thermo switches and power steering pressure switches.
If you did do a complete ecu replacment, I would love to know how you delt with those stock ecu functions
I am asking because looking over the wiring diagrams, it seems like the ecu deals with quite a bit besides fuel/spark and a/c related idle control. I see a/c thermo switches and power steering pressure switches.
If you did do a complete ecu replacment, I would love to know how you delt with those stock ecu functions
#48
Originally Posted by kingofl337
Damn good question Private Pile!
I used a relay to jumper the two pins in the VAF together but I'm gonna try that.
I used a relay to jumper the two pins in the VAF together but I'm gonna try that.
Edit to answer my own question:
Easier than the diagnostic port. Remove the kickpanel under the steering column and find the circuit opening relay. It has 5 wires coming out of it; blue/black, white/red, violet, black, and light green. Connect MS pin 37 to the light green wire and you're done. This is the same wire as the lt green wire at the MAF and diagnostic port, check for continuity if you're unsure.
Last edited by mschlang; 06-30-2006 at 05:34 PM.
#49
In your last picture showing the board mods, your two red wires are parallel, not crossed. In this drawing, the yellow lines do cross, which results in coil A going to IAC1B and coil B to IAC2A, which is backwards. Just wanted to point this out for other folks. I just got things running yesterday thanks to this board and wanted to make things easier for others.
Originally Posted by kags1969
This is needed to get COIL signal to DB37 Connector....
#50
Originally Posted by mschlang
In your last picture showing the board mods, your two red wires are parallel, not crossed. In this drawing, the yellow lines do cross, which results in coil A going to IAC1B and coil B to IAC2A, which is backwards. Just wanted to point this out for other folks. I just got things running yesterday thanks to this board and wanted to make things easier for others.
#51
Yes, but if you were to cross the wires and follow the wiring guide in post #39, the coils will be switched. I know because that's what I did. When all I got was a backfire, I figured the coils were switched. Just hoping to smooth the road a bit more for others.
Originally Posted by Aussie Driver
It doesn't really matter which way around they go as long as MSnSE/the loom connections are configured to match.
#52
Originally Posted by kags1969
mmmmmmm....beer.....
Well i got the kit from diy
""This is a simple two-part kit with a 1/4w 620ohm resistor to replace R19 and a ZTX688b to replace Q4."
This means that theoretically I should be able to plug this bastard in tomorrow...
Anybody wanna share their msq file? Aussie? kags1969@yahoo.com if your feeling generous...
Well i got the kit from diy
""This is a simple two-part kit with a 1/4w 620ohm resistor to replace R19 and a ZTX688b to replace Q4."
This means that theoretically I should be able to plug this bastard in tomorrow...
Anybody wanna share their msq file? Aussie? kags1969@yahoo.com if your feeling generous...
does this apply to 1.8 as well?? so you buy an assembled ms for 265 and what else do you need ? a list would help
#54
Originally Posted by Reverant
Why exactly does D1 need to be removed?
Jim
Jim
D1 is on the board for a fuel only setup. For us to get spark we need to either solder a jumper across D1 or we can remove it all together. The advantage of removing D1 is that we can then re-use the diode to elimenate 'noise' for the PWM idle mod that some of us are running.
#55
MS130-C $325 (assembled MSV1 3.0 PCB)
MSStim21-C $75 (assembled megastim - optional)
MSHarness $68
IATwPiggy $21 IAT Sensor
38NPT-Bung_S $8 Bung for mounting IAT sensor (steel weld on, or JB-Weld on)
TuneCable $6.50
LC-1 without gauge $199 (Wideband 02 sensor plus wires - you can still view real-time AFR and datalog AFR through your laptop)
===================
$702.50
That's for the works, assembled but requries some wiring work, which I'm about to get.
#56
or
MS130-C $325 (assembled MSV1 3.0 PCB)
MiataSquirt - $120.00
IATwPiggy $21 IAT Sensor
38NPT-Bung_S $8 Bung for mounting IAT sensor (steel weld on, or JB-Weld on)
TuneCable $6.50
LC-1 without gauge $199 (Wideband 02 sensor plus wires - you can still view real-time AFR and datalog AFR through your laptop)
===================
679.50
Plug in and turn the key!
MS130-C $325 (assembled MSV1 3.0 PCB)
MiataSquirt - $120.00
IATwPiggy $21 IAT Sensor
38NPT-Bung_S $8 Bung for mounting IAT sensor (steel weld on, or JB-Weld on)
TuneCable $6.50
LC-1 without gauge $199 (Wideband 02 sensor plus wires - you can still view real-time AFR and datalog AFR through your laptop)
===================
679.50
Plug in and turn the key!