joyrider

iTrader: (8)

Didn't touch the srew finally, did set idle valve and done some VEanalyze sessions.

Everything looking good so far. I think I'll keep stock IAT, injectors and fuel rail for now and learn more about the tunning and stuff for my 7psi of pleasure.

Base AFR table need some tunning I guess, is there any other map that I can use ?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

no you can never do that again, that's a factory ecu thing. you need to unlearn things like gnd and ten.

id try to turn the tb bypass screw back the same amount of turns, then figure out why your MS isnt allowing your idle valve to close.



afr table would be great if you had kPa and rpm points....

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

The values for the valve we're off. Had to change Idle valve open max step to 78 (was 37.90, Idle closed to 36 (was 19.9), RPM valve closed to 2000 (was 1100) and RPM valve open to 925 (was 1900).

Okay ditching factory ECU thing from my brain. Did replace the idle screw too before messing something up.

Here's the AFR table with RPM and KPa.

You can see my last log of idle and I played with VE analyze where you see the TPS moving.

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

I changed the injectors to RX7 19550-2010 ones and put req fuel to 6.6 but the car won't start. Searched a lot, did change Priming pulse, crank PW and warmup %.

Priming pulse (ms)------ Crank PW(%) ------ Warmup (%)
6.0 to 3.8----- 312 to 177----- 170 to 97
5.6 to 3.6----- 286 to 162----- 165 to 94
5.2 to 3.4 ----- 258 to 146----- 157 to 89
4.8 to 3.8----- 241 to 137 ----- 148 to 84
4.4 to 2.9 -----222 to 126----- 140 to 80
and so on...

The car flooded and the exhaust almost drip fuel... Have to charge the small battery before giving it another shot later today. Will put new plugs at the same time.

Am I missing something ?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

still on 1.6L tps and have a harness prewired for vtps and the tps is still plugged in?

Reverant

iTrader: (10)

Your cranking values are too high.

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

1.8 TPS, it was working fine on 260cc injector.

How low should I set them from your experience ?

edit : tried down to 55 but it still won't start..

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

I tried everything from 1 to way too high and always flood the engine. Bring thé car to a friend of mine and we tried different parameters. Nothing worked so we installed back the 260cc and everything is fine.

Gonna get rid of those rx7 na injectors. Thx again guys.

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

Injectors are gone but I still have an issue with the alternator control...

Built Jason C circuit twice even if the first one was okay on the bench. Both aren't working in the car.

I also bought a Mopar regulator (Abe's solution) and it's working perfectly with stock ECU but not working with MS (stanalone). In fact, I read that I have the same problem as Reverant with my car... (I sent him a PM)

So what's else left to make it work aside from a na alt that will give bad voltage???

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

weird, i dont see why the MS would cause it not to work.

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

After searching a lot, Reverant had those 2 problems too. He built some kind of programmable chip to control his alt but I don't have the knowledge to do it...

The more I think, I think the best idea would be to send 1T, 1O, 1B to DB connector and put it back in the stock ecu from my harness. I would need some connectors and pins.

joyrider

iTrader: (8)

Finally I found a 96 alternator, put a jumper between 1T and 1Q and send 12V switched to 1O. Works but ain't really stable, whatever for now, it does work.

We tried my Jason C circuit on a friend 99 and his alt is charging... it's strange...

I bought the programmable circuit from Reverant and will try that and hope that'll be the end of this chapter...