Im not used to tuning with closed loop. All the cars that I've tuned on did not have a/c and did not use the O2 for feedback.

All I gotta do is connect the one wire that feeds the O2 signal from the LC-1.

So I would switch to pwm closed loop in the idle control settings, then adjust values in closed loop idle valve and PID settings?

 

The two RPM values don't limit you, they just set the sensitivity of the PID algorithm. Closer together makes it more sensitive.

The open and closed valve values being too close together can also dull the PID loops responses, so if it's not responding when you see the CL idle indicator come on, you can adjust the RPM values closer together and/or the valve open/close values further apart, then adjust the PID terms higher if you still need to.

Stalling as you're coming to a stop is usually an indication that your lockout settings are wrong, and you're getting into PID during overrun.

Ken

 

Can someone please explain what "RPM with valve closed" and "RPM with valve open" means? If the valve is closed, what happens with the valve and what happens with idle?

My idle in the daily is really good, however I'm still struggling with idle droop at stop signs and AC activation when parked.

 

Rpm with valve closed is the RPM your car idles at with the valve fully closed. Use test mode and reduce the duty until the idle stops dropping.

I'm sure you can work out what rpm with idle open is now

Idle droop can be fixed by adjusting the dashpot value, and also increasing timing int the region below your normal idle RPM

 

an aggresive "return fuel at X RPM" overrun value can also cause idle droop that the dashpot cant fix.

Using the initial idle duty table helps a ton as far as droop.