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Old 04-07-2014, 09:41 AM   #1
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Default No crank signal - with 36-2 trigger wheel

I have posted thsi on other forums, but I probably need a Miata expert

I have a MS3 with MSx on an 03 Miata engine. Using latest firmware and tunerstudio.
I am using a Flyin' Miata 36-2 timing wheel and am using it in TS as well.

It looks like I am getting a CAM signal but not crank signal. I have seen that I am getting 12v and good ground to the sensor, but do not have an oscilloscope to see if I am getting something out. I have adjusted the pickup so it is VERY close to the timing wheel. I verified that the sensor wire runs from the connector to pin 25. I have verified ground and 12v as well (all of my grounds go back to the same few connections as I checked the MS and they all were the same)

I have set the MS3 up as:V3.0 board - VR Input with pullup for hall sensors, LS2/58X, optical sensors or points
a) Solder a link between VRIN and TACHSELECT
b) Solder a wire between VrOUT and TSEL
c) Install a 1k resistor (any value 470R - 2k2 is likely ok) in the proto area. Connect one end to the 5V hole and join the other end to VRIN with a jumper wire.
d) With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, about 12 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) and then turn R56 back about 6 turns clockwise.

BTW, I am fairly confident in the circuit as it works with the JimStim as a 99-00 Miata

I am leaning toward it being a bad crank angle sensor but not sure. Seems like if I have 12v and good ground going to the sensor and the signal wire is in the right spot, that I should see something in TS.

I know that I am missing something simple, but am brain dead.

HELP

Mike
Attached Files
File Type: csv 2014-04-06_18.19.49.csv (19.7 KB, 50 views)
File Type: msq 2014-04-06_18.39.16.msq (223.6 KB, 50 views)
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:08 AM   #2
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you need to keep turning the pot CW.
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:45 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
you need to keep turning the pot CW.
56 is the one toward the bottom, correct? (Once you mount them you cannot see the number...LOL) And just leave the other one alone?

I assume that it is a "pick up" of some sort. Is it something that if you go past the "sweet spot" that it will go back to no input or will it be just noisy?

I did order a new sensor since I am not sure of this one (came with the salvaged engine) but my research tells me it is rare that they fail. $60 via Amazon for next day to know that the sensor is good is liveable.

Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:10 AM   #4
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just keep turning until you get the signal.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:37 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
just keep turning until you get the signal.
Should I back all the way out (turn 12 turns counter clockwise) and then just start 1/2 turn at a time?

Can I just keep starting (no more than 5 seconds or so at a time) while turning the screw? In other words, is that a real-time switch?
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:59 AM   #6
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you should be composite logging, not trying to start.

but you're at 6 turns now, go at least 2 more to 8. that's been my experience with the NB crank sensor at least.
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Old 04-07-2014, 09:56 PM   #7
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I bow to you Braineack... 8 turns was the trick.

She fired up but needs a ton of work to get it to run right.

I assume that the injectors run A-D starting at the firewall and running to the front... Could I be wrong?
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Old 04-07-2014, 10:39 PM   #8
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1342 abcd
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:50 PM   #9
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Physically 1234 from the waterpump. Is it ABCD from the waterpump as well?
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