richard_ha

Take plug 1 out and using some insulated grips or gloves hold it with the nut part against the engine and see if it's sparking when the engine running. Also try this with number 3.

If you dont use something insulated you'll get a huge shock (and I don't mean shock in the surprise way)

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

I've already swapped plugs 1 with 2 and 3 with 4 and still ended with the same problem.
It runs if I hook the stock ecu back up and swap the wires on the coils.

So, I now think fueling problems with megasquirt.

richard_ha

OK, makes sense.

Injectors 1 and 3 are wired as a pair as a yellow wire in the wiring harness of the car and should go to pins 32 and 33 of the MS, check for resistance on the harness between the MS and the Mazda loom.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

I've got 0 resistance between pins 34 and 35 on the DB37 and the pin the big green wire is connected to.

I've got class now. Hopefully we can continue this later.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Bryce, first....LEAVE THE DAMNED SPARK WIRES AS STOCK......... 1&4 need to be on the coil on the driver side, 2&3 on the coil on the pass side.

your issue is cranking fueling........cold starts are troublesome, getting it started for the first time is troublesome, combining the two is not fun.

second...the .inc files i sent you were incorrect, i forgot you have a standalone harness.

try the ones attached.

what's your injector size again? your map might just need some tweaking...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

if you guys really want to look at his harness.....then ask.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Ahh, there you are. I was beginning to think you disappeared off the face of the earth.

When I get back I will put the plugs back to stock.

I'm running piggyback not standalone.

305cc injectors.

miataz

iTrader: (1)

injectors wired backwards? That was my problem.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah I thought of that when I went to bed last night.

I'll have a new firmware package and base map I'll want you to burn to get the temps back where they need to be, which is one reason you're having trouble. I cant remember...How far off are they?

For example, if your MS shows 20° CLT in the morning and it's like 60° out, then the cranking PWs will be off and would have to be manually altered to get it within reason. I'm still trying to figure out the correct bias when piggybacked, but I seem to suck at math.

you were plain lucky to have it run when you swapped the plug wires around, because you were simply running on 2 cylinders and the sparking timing was completely wrong. Like I said, the first start is the biggest hurdle, just swapping around plug wires are trying to reverse the order of the fuel injectors is not the way to go.....

I'd suggest you start emailing me back and forth to get it running, for example, Icando55 had a nearly identical issue as you when trying to start his car in the snow last week and now it's up and running with a few emails of troubleshooting.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Let me just chime in briefly on the ignition thing as a fellow 1.6 standaloner. I also ran into the issue where my 1/4 and 2/3 ignition triggers were reversed initially. Before installing the MS, I spent a lot of time looking at the FSM, tracing wires, verifying that I had these hooked up right. Despite this, I reversed the brown and brown/yellow wires at the MS. So don't think you're crazy if you had to reverse either these two wires or the two sets of plug wires at the coils when switching between MS and stock ECU. I'm convinced that there's an error somewhere in the FSM as to which wire fires which plugs...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Bryce, flash this new file and use these .inc files....

if you need detailed instructions let me know...

http://www.boostedmiata.com/Megasqui...rm/1_6L_Piggy/

I forgot if you had hi-res or not, so it's all there to choose from.

juhanis

i had the same issue with the plug wires, but now i'm running them in the same order as your big *** pic up there. no issues now, and its running like this. note: 3.90 gears, 6 speed, tall tires, no top.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yes, but you guys need to understand why there's a reason to swap the plug wires.

Juhanis, in your case Brian built your MS one way and i finished the harness up another; i never noticed the crossed outputs before I sent it.

I built Bryce's MS and harness, he doesn't need to swap anything around....

Jefe

iTrader: (7)

Just curious what the issue was? Mine no longer starts (after 3 months of no problems and getting my cold starts near perfect.. Then I got bold and tried last week when it was -18 out... I left the car for a week, and tried today, no luck (clt was 18 degrees, I have had it running in the past when it was only 2 degrees)

I'm going to swap plugs - they were pretty wet. It's suppose to be around 30tomorrow and I'll try again. I was running my own #'s, but I changed to yours (scott's) 2.8 -4 and still no luck...

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

his issue was trying to start for the first time when it was snowing out...mainly it was cranking PW, req_feq, and ASE issues.

Jefe

iTrader: (7)

OK thanks, didn't realize it was 1st timer

ajbalmat

iTrader: (2)

i'm having the same issue bryce seemed to be having right now. now that it's gotten cold out my car does not want to start when the motor's cold. when it's warm i have no problems. lately i've had a lot of trouble with my car (turbo not making boost anymore), so i decided to take out the 450's and put in the stock tan injectors. had fuel leak issues at the fuel rail, think i fixed that though, but not 100% sure. reloaded the base map on MSPNP and set the base timing just like i was installing it for the first time. cranking advance was 17 degrees, checked timing with light, dead on 10 degrees before TDC.

getting the same symptoms now as bryce was describing, turn-turn-turn-schlump. turn-turn-turn-schlump. now the battery almost dies before it starts up.

also, i haven't touched the plugs or wires. i have NGK bkr6e plugs in still from when the turbo was working properly, but i don't think that would keep it from starting up and running fine. they are only a few months old.

once the car is running everything is fine. idle is the same as it was before.

i want to just put the stock ecu back in until i get my new turbo installed, but i have a 160 degree thermostat in the back of the head and i don't want to go through the trouble of changing it out with a stock one.


i guess the only difference in how my car was before and how it is now is the broken turbo. but the shaft still spins, whatever that may mean.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Blast from the past!

With the help of Brain, we eventually got it working. As it turned out, a small error on his part left the legs of 1 of the 2 transistors that controls the fuel injectors bridged, thus causing 2 injectors not to inject fuel. A quick snip with some pliers and the problem was fixed.

ajbalmat

iTrader: (2)

yea i know this is a dig up huh?

mine seems to be timing issues though. i need to check and make sure all my connections were good when i re-soldered on the stock injector plugs, but i'm pretty sure i got them right.

other than that i've changed nothing about the vehicle except the turbo croaking over.