Awesome, then its not just me (or curly).

 

actually i have one sitting here with those mods. ill double check.


Edit: confirmed, rpm rate does not change the LEDs, the dim ever so slightly when I give it rpms. They flash like normal on the stim however.

 

Brain, are you refering to the "?" shaped yellow wire far right, touching the resistor? I'll check that with the DMM. Joe, voltage is near 0 on the trigger wires with the engine off (ms on). Voltage jumps between 0&1v on 1&4 trigger, didn't get much if anything on the 2&3 trigger. It's a really nice fluke meter (like your thermostat video!) but the change from 0-5-0 is probably too fast for it.

 

yeah, hard to tell.

 

Things I tried today:

1. unplugged COPs
2. reburnt the firmware
3. wired in igniter and stock coils, no spark at all (resistor for COPs tach signal was still in place, dunno if that made a difference)
4. Plugged COPs back in, double checking wiring, but was still running on 1&4
5. had my friend look at MT tach and dash tach, and at 1000rpm on the dash, MT read 2000, and a quick rev to 3000 while looking at 2&3 plugs verified that it's not just on 2 cylinders at idle.
6. unplugged COps, reburnt firmware
7. Took MS apart and inspected the bottom more, a few possible shorts, nothing that popped out as "OMG here's a huge short".
8. Reassembeled, started it just for kicks, still running on 2 cylinders.

I PM'd wayne for his .msq, since that was the last thing to get it to run, hopefully there's some bizzarre "run on cylinder 1&4 only: on" setting.

Interestingly enough, there's a settings for the tacho pin, which is currently "off". The other setting in that window has to do with halfing the output. Maybe if I turn that on so the tach's match the heavens will align and it'll all work, mainly cause my horoscope told me to remain positive.

 

Ok, i posed a question to Joe via PM about the possibility of one of those spark output transistors being damaged by not running inverted spark.

Until then, attached you'll find my MSQ.

 

And the answer I gave him, to spare everyone the suspense:

Nearly impossible.

The Inverted / Non-Inverted state refers to whether the system should be considered active-high or active-low from the CPU's perspective. If the setting is wrong, then the transistors will simply be conducting the pullup to ground at the wrong time. In the circuit as-designed (the size of the pullup resistor relative to the collector-emitter current rating of the transistor) they are perfectly suited for continuous operation, with considerable headroom to spare.

The only thing that's at risk from an improper software setting is the igniter and ignition coil primaries. Those are not rated for continuous operation, and will overheat and fail if operated in that condition for any length of time. That is why the problem of frying coils during a reflash exists in the first place.

 

Awesome, so once again we're no where. The thing that's aggrevating is that I don't entirely trust my PNP harness, yet that's the simplest thing to test since it's just continuity, which has been tested from the MS db-37 cable all the way to the coils. 12v, ground, and tach are all same for the coils, so they're "fine" as long as 1&4 continue to fire. The two trigger wires are the only concern, and right now it seems like only one of them is working. Again, plugging the 2&3 trigger wire into the 1&4 trigger wire results in spark on 2&3. Should I be looking at my injector wiring? Not that the injectors aren't working, but would any break or fault in the injector wiring cause those cylinders to not fire?

 

BTW, I looked a little closer at that disconnected orange wire, and it turns out it's orange with a blue stripe, is that the IAC valve wire, as described in this thread for DB-37 pin 30?
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t32161/

I know it wouldn't have anything to do with spark, but it would be good to get it hooked up once i get this working. I've found a lot of things amok while wiring in the MS, for instance I found out my narrow band O2 sensor hasn't been plugged in for a while, oops.

 

Ok, the results. All I did was burn my MSQ and plug it into my car. I didn't show the embarassing 4 start attempts since its cold out and my car has been sitting for a week almost.




And actually I said twice I was going to try to get that to the UPS store today but its dark out now and I have a headlight out so its going to go out tomorrow morning. Also, I wanna take some time to pick over your PNP harness. As we discussed, i'll be sending you my 100% stock unmolested ECU for your testing pleasure as well.

 

You act like I don't trust you that it's my MS that's running the car. "As you can see, I cut Ms. White completely in half, and she's still alive!"

Very frustrating though, sorry to of wasted your time, I guess I'll have to figure out what's wrong on my end. I bought some real COP plugs off Ebay, so I'll be making a trustworthy harness out of those, and if that doesn't work, I'll throw the AFM back in and see if it works with the stock ECU. I'm hoping not cause I cut the AFM plug out already, luckily with a 6" lead left, and I'd have to wire that back in first. Grrrrr

 

I'm sorry dude. Didn't mean to be condescending, just wanted there to be no doubt whatsoever.

It could still be the harness. We will see when I get to it tonight. And you haven't wasted any of my time. Any time I spend helping you troubleshoot this out is time that I learn more new stuff which is as valuable as anything else in my book.

 

Oh I found it funny, no worries. Not that I wanted it to be your craftsmanship at fault, but if it's not, it means I screwed something up, and wasted your time and my own blaming the MS. This just in: MSs can do no wrong.

 

Just to bring closure to this if anyone is trouble shooting their own 2 cylinder Miata and stumbles on this thread, it seems like the problem lay in the COP harness. After putting electrical tape on a few of the exposed connectors which I had previously triple checked that they weren't touching, I now have a four cylinder miata again. I than made a permanent harness out of eBay sourced COP pigtails, and had another 2 cylinder miata, 1&4 only again. Turns out I had one trigger and one ground wire switched, which apparently screws up your firmware as well. After switching the wires and reloading my firmware, all is fine. 460's are hopefully going in, and than hopefully I'll finally be able run to red line without hitting over boost!

Original harness, yes it did run on this, somehow:
[IMG][/IMG]

 

lol.

real men make them using all black wires and perfectly lengthed.

 

That's what mine looks like now, routing and all. I have colored wires though.