TunerStudio timining issue - 90 Miata 1.6 Turbo
#22
Timing issue Fixed.
This is what happened. When I had the engine outside the car there was a bolt hole on both side of the CAS. One on the left and one on the right when facing the cylinder head from the back. I bolted the CAS on the bolt on the left side thus plug was facing downward and my timing was extremely retard.
Can we please lock this thread so in future people can see this last thread as an answer.
Thank you everyone. Appreciate the help.
#23
This is what happened. When I had the engine outside the car there was a bolt hole on both side of the CAS. One on the left and one on the right when facing the cylinder head from the back. I bolted the CAS on the bolt on the left side thus plug was facing downward and my timing was extremely retard.
#24
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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When you adjust the trigger angle positive which way does the timing mark move. If it moves away from the 10BTC mark then go negative. If it moves towards it then go more positive.
#25
Sorry to revive an old thread but I think I am having a similar issue except I know 100% my CAS is not backwards (). I was having issues with a rough idle after I finally got it to start with the CAS rotated counter-clockwise to the max and a trigger angle of 22º (which TS did not like, AT ALL, I would get a config error after every power cycle until I returned to the +/- 20 range) so I decided this was a timing issue for sure. I went in and redid my timing belt even though I can verify it was correct before. The intake and exhaust cams are both aligned with cylinder 1 at TDC, all of my marks line up as well. Its odd because after I got everything back together I couldn't get it to idle again even with the previous settings. I've tried everything I'm aware of here and could use some desperately needed help . I can upload base maps and some cranking logs if that might help diagnose my problem. For some background: Car ran perfectly in November, added a turbo, GM IAT, MSPNP2, and an aggressive wire tuck at the same time (probably not the best idea but this is how it worked out between funding and the weather). Wiring is all verified and I know I am getting spark as well as fuel although the spark seems a little weak? Maybe need some new plugs? I really don't know here my dudes and any help would be fantastic. Sorry about the poorly formatted babbling here, hopefully, you can understand well enough. Thanks!
#27
Have you taken the timing gears off the cams and verified that the key holding the gears in position is solid and doing its job? The first two cam lobes should be pointing at 9 oclock on the intake side and 3 oclock on the exhaust side when the motor is properly timed and cyl 1 is at TDC.
#28
Car is now running at 10º, this whole megasquirt thing just baffles me. I reset my CAS to a neutral angle and got it to idle real rough with 10º of trigger angle. From there I was able to fine tune down to 5.7º of trigger angle with a timing light (word of warning: I bought a shitty $20 light from eBay that never worked and had to spend another $50 on a decent light from AutoZone, don't waste your money and time, just buy quality tools from the start). The car will idle great at 800 rpm but drops to 500-600 rpm shortly after being started, idle droop I believe this is called. Is a variable TPS the only way to fix this? I'd rather not throw more money into the pit lol. Otherwise, it should just be a matter of scaling my tables for boost and getting some decent logs. If y'all have any words of wisdom for a first-time tuner please share! I know this reply was unnecessarily long and may not pertain to the topic 100% but I just want the info out there for anyone else who might experience a similar problem down the road. Thank you, fellow members, for all the help!
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