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Old 06-03-2013, 03:48 AM   #1
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Default very low rpm when ac + clutch

Hey,

I use DIYPNP on my 97 turbo miata.

When I press the clutch paddle with no ac on, the rpm will go down nice and smooth to around 900 and stay there.

When I do the same with the ac on, the rpm will go down very low 500-600 and almost stall - sometimes it does.

The CL is not even on yet (2sec delay on both situations.

Any help ?

Thanks !
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Old 06-04-2013, 11:30 PM   #2
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Is it a MS1? If it is the MS1 doesnt have the idle up feature. I ran into the same issue. You can play with the Closed loop settings and get it to work however you are going to have a very high idle when the ac is off, however when it is on the idle will be normal. I switched mine back to Warm Up only till my MS2 daughter board gets in and then ill use the idle setting. There is a vid on youtube showing how it works. Much better then then relying on MS1.
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Old 06-05-2013, 03:45 AM   #3
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it's a MS2, I understand that I need gslender fw in order to fix the ac idle.
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:34 AM   #4
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yeah his fw does that, as well as any of the new 3.3 betas will have the same thing. You also need to re-wire a few things on the board to get it to work right...it's all in gslender's documentation for his mods.
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Old 06-05-2013, 05:36 AM   #5
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I read his pdf, I could not understand exactly what to do with the wires, can any one help me out ?

Last edited by elior77; 06-05-2013 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:26 AM   #6
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Can you post a data log of the problem and a copy of your MSQ?
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Old 06-05-2013, 10:30 AM   #7
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I would like to install gslender fw in order to fix the ac drop, I just do not understand what to do with the wires.

Can you give me a hand ?



I need to use 1K ? where do I need to put it ?
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Old 06-05-2013, 04:53 PM   #8
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I just woke up, so maybe sanity check this.....

1K (AC switch) should be routed to an input circuit (PE1, PE0, or PA0). I believe I used one of the input circuits for this to protect the ECU.
Signal to enable AC relay (1B, 1G) is routed from an output port (WLED, ALED)
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Old 06-09-2013, 02:51 PM   #9
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I did
1K-->PE1
ALED--->input1 IN
1G,1G--->input1 OUT

worked and then no connection...

Dead CPU?
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:02 PM   #10
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That wiring makes no sense. The 1K going directly into the CPU is cause for alarm, it should be going through the input circuit. You have the output traveling through an input circuit, that's silly.

Do:
1K to Input 1 IN (install r14)
Input 1 OUT to PE1
ALED to 1B, 1G
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Old 06-10-2013, 03:39 AM   #11
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Did it, still can not connect.

What should I do ?
dead cpu ?
new card ?
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:00 AM   #12
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Was it hooked up to the car like that, or removed from the car?
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:02 AM   #13
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I took it out of the car, did all the wiring and fw flush on the my pc table with a ac/dc psu.

I did not plug it into the car since I took it out.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:16 AM   #14
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Then I'd say your MS is fine. I actually think I wired mine up initially without going thru the input, then re-did it (without ever plugging it back in the car, like you). Never had any sort of issues.
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Old 06-10-2013, 04:21 AM   #15
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I can not connect... what can I try ?

I used to connect with out a problem all the time.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:42 PM   #16
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not sure what to tell ya. is it possible you messed something else up while soldering?
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Old 06-11-2013, 07:48 AM   #17
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Luckily a fw re-flush helped, I'm back on track again.

I got it updated to 3.3beta13

looks ok, I need to plug it to the car and see.

Thanks !

I did:

1k--->Input2IN
Input2OUT--->PE1
WLED--->1B, 1G

No need to put something on the WLED pull up - right ?

Last edited by elior77; 06-11-2013 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:06 PM   #18
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Tuned CL fixed the very low rpm when ac + clutch.
(Use last value or table: use initial value table (CLT) - did the trick, keeps the pwm valve open when rpm drops)





*Just closing up all my threads with the solutions I found.
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