weird hiccup at 5000-6000rpm - Page 4 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 09-16-2010, 11:14 AM   #61
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I replaced all 4 of them last night, again. I have a box of 16-Toyota coils, lol.
So you still get the same problems after replacing all 4 cops?
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:18 AM   #62
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Same problem. I'm searching for an igniter.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:23 AM   #63
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Same problem. I'm searching for an igniter.
And out of boost?
Lower boost?
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:59 AM   #64
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The spark drops every time in load. However if I back off throttle minimally in boost, spark drops (Maintenence throttle mid corner). This is a recent problem, it once worked properly, even at 16psi rather than the current 11psi.

I can hold 100kpa to redline with no drop.

Last edited by hustler; 09-16-2010 at 12:01 PM.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:06 PM   #65
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Right now I'm leaning toward a late-night rewire.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:06 PM   #66
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Have you had the cap mod done yet? It'd be worth doing.... Send it to DIY. Or I'll do it for you if they charge a fee. I doubt they do.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:12 PM   #67
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Ok, I\'m going to try the cap mod I guess, nothing like learning to solder a $700 PCB the night before a road trip. I\'m prepared to track my daily.

Last edited by hustler; 09-16-2010 at 12:23 PM.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:35 PM   #68
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What kind of wire to attach the cap to the board? What are my chances of abject failure?
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:39 PM   #69
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you can probably just use the leads off the cap...then bend 90 them so the cap itself rests on the board.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:42 PM   #70
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you can probably just use the leads off the cap...then bend 90 them so the cap itself rests on the board.
Why would this problem develop after functioning properlyfor almost 2-years? I wonder if somethig else is wrong.

Does Radioshack sell these? How do I know poalrity? When I solder, do I heat the lead or board? Youtube's "how to solder" vies don't address that.

Thanks guys, my car wouldn't run without you.
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:47 PM   #71
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Honestly, I dunno, not quite sure what's going on.

radioshack should sell a 3,700uF cap, again, I'm unsure what size DIY uses within the units now. The leg with the longer lead goes to 12v, the short leg goes to ground.

When I solder, I like to heat up the lead I'm going to attach first, then "tin" it with some solder. Then, I heat up the area it's going to attach to, put it in place and let the solder from each merge.

I still use a $7 radio shack soldering iron for all my units. I bought a nice weller once for $0, but it died in 2 weeks.
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Old 09-16-2010, 04:27 PM   #72
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When I go to Radioshack, what part do I ask for? "0.1'you' 'eff' capacitor"?
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:17 PM   #73
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email ben @ diyautotune.com and ask him.


if you wanna put it on the cop harness, you'd want to to buy two of the 4,700uF capacitors.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tic+capacitors

Now, IIRC, the arrow points to ground. seriously google it, i cant remember.
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Old 09-16-2010, 05:26 PM   #74
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Go to the drawers of parts that are usually somewhere in the back of the store, and find it yourself. It's hit and miss whether the employees know about those drawers, much less anything that's in them, or that it's how Radio Shack became as successful as it is today.
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