What am I missing? The DB15 connector w/ a MSPNP.
07-25-2010, 09:13 PM
#21
Not to thread-jack too much, but I'm also having an issue with the throttle position and the DIYPNP. Mine will read some crazy number (it's gone from 400%-1200%) on the TunerStudio gauges. I have a 1.6 and I set it up by doing "Get Current" with the pedal untouched and floored. Every time I try to redo it the numbers are different. I tried inputting 255 for both, but the software says the values can't be the same.
Any idea as to why it thinks my throttle is @ 1200%? Is it even a problem? The car stumbles a lot, but that's because nothing is really tuned yet (still working out issues with the LC-1).
Any idea as to why it thinks my throttle is @ 1200%? Is it even a problem? The car stumbles a lot, but that's because nothing is really tuned yet (still working out issues with the LC-1).
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07-26-2010, 08:51 AM
#22
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TPS should be unplugged on a 1.6L. The stock TPS is just a switch that MS cannot use, your DIYPNP is prewired for a VTPS signal and if you RTFM you should have seen the section in red about unplugging it like I pointed out in post #5.
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07-26-2010, 08:55 AM
#23
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Well the car starts, by it is running very rich and I have to work the throttle to keep It from dying. It can't idle on its own even after it's warmed up.
Would the Wells tps (if there was something wrong with it) be the cause of that?
My tuning map is almost exactly what brainiak sent me so I wouldn't think it would need heavy tuning just to keep it running. So it seems like there's some setting that needs to be changed.
Also it shows the fuel load as very high no matter what I'm doing with the throttle.
Thoughts?
Would the Wells tps (if there was something wrong with it) be the cause of that?
My tuning map is almost exactly what brainiak sent me so I wouldn't think it would need heavy tuning just to keep it running. So it seems like there's some setting that needs to be changed.
Also it shows the fuel load as very high no matter what I'm doing with the throttle.
Thoughts?
Not to thread-jack too much, but I'm also having an issue with the throttle position and the DIYPNP. Mine will read some crazy number (it's gone from 400%-1200%) on the TunerStudio gauges. I have a 1.6 and I set it up by doing "Get Current" with the pedal untouched and floored. Every time I try to redo it the numbers are different. I tried inputting 255 for both, but the software says the values can't be the same.
Any idea as to why it thinks my throttle is @ 1200%? Is it even a problem? The car stumbles a lot, but that's because nothing is really tuned yet (still working out issues with the LC-1).
Any idea as to why it thinks my throttle is @ 1200%? Is it even a problem? The car stumbles a lot, but that's because nothing is really tuned yet (still working out issues with the LC-1).
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07-26-2010, 02:03 PM
#24
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Map is plugged in and i calibrated the timing (fixed timing to ten and then adjusted it untill the car showed ten degrees as well). I don't know off_hand what it's running at now but I'll be sure to check that when I'm at the car next.
Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.
Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.
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07-26-2010, 06:41 PM
#25
The concern I have is that I cannot enter "255" in both cells per the F'ing Manual because TunerStudio says both cells cannot have the same value. When I try calibrating it via the "no throttle/full throttle" method the values are different every time.
I am thinking a VTPS is probably the solution. As is the car stumbles like crazy and if I try to hold it at around 25% throttle at idle the car revs and then goes right back to idle. While driving between 2.5k-3k rpm with minimal throttle input the car bucks and stumbles all over the place. If this sounds like an issue of just needing a VTPS it looks pretty simple, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't another issue first.
FWIW I installed this by the manual TO a "T". I mean no deviations, everything was done to the letter because I don't know enough to think I know better. I understand you guys have been doing this a while, but some of us are new and are honestly trying to learn. We're not 17 year old pimple-faced retards, try to give us the benefit of the doubt that we might have RTFM and still have questions. That's my rant for the day, I think it's a fair and honest request.
Nate
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07-26-2010, 06:43 PM
#26
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It sounds like you might not have your wiring correct to the tps, if the MS is built right.
Swap your Vref, signal and gnd around at the tps location or better yet, use a multimeter to find which pin 'sweeps' (changes) resistance as you move the throttle cable at your tps switch, that should be the one going to your MS.
Swap your Vref, signal and gnd around at the tps location or better yet, use a multimeter to find which pin 'sweeps' (changes) resistance as you move the throttle cable at your tps switch, that should be the one going to your MS.
Map is plugged in and i calibrated the timing (fixed timing to ten and then adjusted it untill the car showed ten degrees as well). I don't know off_hand what it's running at now but I'll be sure to check that when I'm at the car next.
Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.
Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.
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07-26-2010, 06:45 PM
#27
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sorry, RTFM wasn't meant to be negative, just an easy abbreviation cause i'm too lazy to type "read the instructions I provided"
just put it at 254/255, it really doesn't matter.
so long as you're using 100% MAPdot for acceleration enrichments the throttle position should matter.
the "bucking" issue could be aggressive overrun settings and/or idle settings since they both have a throttle position as a trigger.
post up a datalog and your msq d00d.
just put it at 254/255, it really doesn't matter.
so long as you're using 100% MAPdot for acceleration enrichments the throttle position should matter.
the "bucking" issue could be aggressive overrun settings and/or idle settings since they both have a throttle position as a trigger.
post up a datalog and your msq d00d.
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07-26-2010, 06:50 PM
#28
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Map is plugged in and i calibrated the timing (fixed timing to ten and then adjusted it untill the car showed ten degrees as well). I don't know off_hand what it's running at now but I'll be sure to check that when I'm at the car next.
Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.
Any thoughts on the TPS. When itry to calibrate it, it will give me the same numbers for both zero throttle and WOT. And I have a linear Tps installed.
Sounds like you either have a broken TPS or a wiring problem.
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07-26-2010, 06:55 PM
#29
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Yes, I did RTFM, the stock TPS was disconnected before I ever tried starting it the first time.
The concern I have is that I cannot enter "255" in both cells per the F'ing Manual because TunerStudio says both cells cannot have the same value. When I try calibrating it via the "no throttle/full throttle" method the values are different every time.
I am thinking a VTPS is probably the solution. As is the car stumbles like crazy and if I try to hold it at around 25% throttle at idle the car revs and then goes right back to idle. While driving between 2.5k-3k rpm with minimal throttle input the car bucks and stumbles all over the place. If this sounds like an issue of just needing a VTPS it looks pretty simple, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't another issue first.
No way of knowing what your stumbling event is without a datalog, but it sounds like it's most likely tune related. You probably should post up a datalog and your .msq.
FWIW I installed this by the manual TO a "T". I mean no deviations, everything was done to the letter because I don't know enough to think I know better. I understand you guys have been doing this a while, but some of us are new and are honestly trying to learn. We're not 17 year old pimple-faced retards, try to give us the benefit of the doubt that we might have RTFM and still have questions. That's my rant for the day, I think it's a fair and honest request.
Nate
The concern I have is that I cannot enter "255" in both cells per the F'ing Manual because TunerStudio says both cells cannot have the same value. When I try calibrating it via the "no throttle/full throttle" method the values are different every time.
I am thinking a VTPS is probably the solution. As is the car stumbles like crazy and if I try to hold it at around 25% throttle at idle the car revs and then goes right back to idle. While driving between 2.5k-3k rpm with minimal throttle input the car bucks and stumbles all over the place. If this sounds like an issue of just needing a VTPS it looks pretty simple, I just wanted to make sure there wasn't another issue first.
No way of knowing what your stumbling event is without a datalog, but it sounds like it's most likely tune related. You probably should post up a datalog and your .msq.
FWIW I installed this by the manual TO a "T". I mean no deviations, everything was done to the letter because I don't know enough to think I know better. I understand you guys have been doing this a while, but some of us are new and are honestly trying to learn. We're not 17 year old pimple-faced retards, try to give us the benefit of the doubt that we might have RTFM and still have questions. That's my rant for the day, I think it's a fair and honest request.
Nate
You should have a stabilizing resistor between TPS and Ground if you do not have a TPS on the car. The resistor value isn't too critical, just grab an extra "pull up" resistor that you didn't need when building the kit and place it between the TPS pin and a ground pin. This will "freeze" the TPS value in the MegaSquirt, preventing it from floating. If the TPS value floats too high, it could cause the MegaSquirt to go into flood clear (fuel cut) when cranking.
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07-26-2010, 07:22 PM
#30
sorry, RTFM wasn't meant to be negative, just an easy abbreviation cause i'm too lazy to type "read the instructions I provided"
just put it at 254/255, it really doesn't matter.
so long as you're using 100% MAPdot for acceleration enrichments the throttle position should matter.
the "bucking" issue could be aggressive overrun settings and/or idle settings since they both have a throttle position as a trigger.
post up a datalog and your msq d00d.
just put it at 254/255, it really doesn't matter.
so long as you're using 100% MAPdot for acceleration enrichments the throttle position should matter.
the "bucking" issue could be aggressive overrun settings and/or idle settings since they both have a throttle position as a trigger.
post up a datalog and your msq d00d.
How would I know if I have 100% MAPdot?
I will grab my most recent msq and post it... how do I post a link to an msq file? It's definitely running like **** in terms of idle, low throttle, and transition. Not to mention there are quite a few audible pops from the exhaust when engine braking, I mean like backfire loud.
I have the msq on my tuning laptop, if someone tells me how to post it I will load it up. I haven't run a datalog (I was concerned with AutoTune first), but I can do a quick run and get one.
Oh and I misunderstood the context of the "RTFM" comment, my bad. There just definitely seems to be a lot of throat-jumping here on n00bs, believe me I understand the frustration, but this isn't my first rodeo and I'm just trying to learn.
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08-06-2010, 11:28 PM
#31
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Well my throttle issue was the TPS was f----d. Dropped a new one in this afternoon and I was actually getting a readable throttle position!
Now, I at first had the St_SIGN fuse pulled and the car wouldn't turn over (I don't think the fuel pump was running), but when I jumped the diagnostic box (i don't know the pins off-hand) I could hear the pump running and I was finally able to get the car to start.
I've left the diagnostic box jumped because everything is working really quite well right now. Will this be an issue to keep the fuel pump running whenever the car is on? (It seems like it would be)
Is wiring in the direct connection the the fuel pump (via the light green wire under the dash) the only way to solve this fuel pump issue?
Thank You,
-Sean
Now, I at first had the St_SIGN fuse pulled and the car wouldn't turn over (I don't think the fuel pump was running), but when I jumped the diagnostic box (i don't know the pins off-hand) I could hear the pump running and I was finally able to get the car to start.
I've left the diagnostic box jumped because everything is working really quite well right now. Will this be an issue to keep the fuel pump running whenever the car is on? (It seems like it would be)
Is wiring in the direct connection the the fuel pump (via the light green wire under the dash) the only way to solve this fuel pump issue?
Thank You,
-Sean
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