Another post where Magna badmouths FMIC's while he sports a ratfucked engine bay! - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-13-2007, 08:11 AM   #21
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WEld up the old hole or use some jb weld then tap a new one. or retap the esxisting spot. Yeah leaking will suck. The fitting is NTP so don't run the tap all the way in also does your kit come with a nut or bung to help you secure it to the pipes i have found that when installing on thin pipes that helps me torque everything down better with no leaks. I just ran the tap through a bolt that was close to the same size and it worked just fine. Idealy you would weld the bung in place though
Welp, I drilled the hole bigger a few times so i think tapping that hole wont work. And I dont think you can jb weld a hole that big. Bah its 4am I can't think of a solution right now.
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:17 AM   #22
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shoulda paid me to fly out there and put it in for ya
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:35 PM   #23
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There is a large, black, 90 fitting which the nozzle screws into from inside the I/C pipe. It's metal. If your pipes are the same type of metal, weld it on the pipe. That will seal it nicely. If they're different, redrill the hole. Tap it with a bigger tap, plug it and start over. Plug it right, boost leaks suck *****.


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Well its 100% installed. I bumped the timing up to 10 btdc. I didn't really notice much in the way of a power gain. Feels a little more peppy I guess.
Sorry to sound like a broken record, but the problem is you don't have a wideband to show you you're running rich. Wait, maybe lean. See what I'm saying? Right now your injecting fuel that's invisible to the ECU, as well as tuning w/ a RRFPR. There's nothing "wrong" with that, except that your car will be a bit slower than it could be. You have a bit more pep from the additional timing which is fine, but what you want is a nice, decent AFR and more BOOST, that's what makes the car faster. Use the spray to bump the boost with additional fuel and cooling.

..when you get a wideband :gay: yes, i'm the wideband police
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Old 08-14-2007, 04:52 AM   #24
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There is a large, black, 90 fitting which the nozzle screws into from inside the I/C pipe. It's metal. If your pipes are the same type of metal, weld it on the pipe. That will seal it nicely. If they're different, redrill the hole. Tap it with a bigger tap, plug it and start over. Plug it right, boost leaks suck *****.




Sorry to sound like a broken record, but the problem is you don't have a wideband to show you you're running rich. Wait, maybe lean. See what I'm saying? Right now your injecting fuel that's invisible to the ECU, as well as tuning w/ a RRFPR. There's nothing "wrong" with that, except that your car will be a bit slower than it could be. You have a bit more pep from the additional timing which is fine, but what you want is a nice, decent AFR and more BOOST, that's what makes the car faster. Use the spray to bump the boost with additional fuel and cooling.

..when you get a wideband :gay: yes, i'm the wideband police
Yup, UofACATS you are 100% right. The boost is staying at 6psi until I get a wideband. Ya I was thinking of doing the same thing you are saying, taping the too-large hole and plugging it with a bolt and jbweld. (my IC pipes are metal.) Think that will do the trick? then just install the nozzle elseware but this time doing it right!

I will also wire up a pump power on led and the wiring for the level switch. I was really fearing the wiring, but it was a snap. I found the 12v ignition source by using that unused blue connector by the intake. While the wireing now looks sorta like a rats nest (A few wires are too long...) when I clean it up it will look pretty good.

EDIT: My sig is updated to reflect whats going on with my crap.

Last edited by medisyn; 08-14-2007 at 05:05 AM.
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Old 08-14-2007, 08:37 AM   #25
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One more post. I don't own a set of taps. What should I be looking for. Also what is the technique for using them. Just run them through like a bit (after drilling the right sized hole.)?

Sorry my Drill-Fu is weak! What the heck does NTP stand for?
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:24 AM   #26
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Uhh the kit shuould have come with a tap. But anywho Npt is National pipe thread and it is a standardised pipe size, and pitch. It is designed to taper up to provide a better seal. Just make the hole big enough to start the tap then screw the tap in slowly and evenly backing up everyonce and a while to make sure the threads are clean and adding a dob of oil, to make it all cut smooth. taking your time it should take maybe 5 minutes to tap the intake. But do not go all the way down on the tap or you will lose the taper, and the fitting will not seal right. Once you are done test fit the fitting with abit of Teflon to make sure it all fits snugly. If you are satisfied with the fit then install and enjoy WI bliss. Also do not use a drill to run the tap this needs to be done slowly and by hand to be effective. Tap holders are readily available at most hardware stores etc. just shop around abit The standard size is 1/8 NPT inch for the tap. I dunno what drill size that is though
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Old 08-14-2007, 09:23 PM   #27
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Uhh the kit shuould have come with a tap. But anywho Npt is National pipe thread and it is a standardised pipe size, and pitch. It is designed to taper up to provide a better seal. Just make the hole big enough to start the tap then screw the tap in slowly and evenly backing up everyonce and a while to make sure the threads are clean and adding a dob of oil, to make it all cut smooth. taking your time it should take maybe 5 minutes to tap the intake. But do not go all the way down on the tap or you will lose the taper, and the fitting will not seal right. Once you are done test fit the fitting with abit of Teflon to make sure it all fits snugly. If you are satisfied with the fit then install and enjoy WI bliss. Also do not use a drill to run the tap this needs to be done slowly and by hand to be effective. Tap holders are readily available at most hardware stores etc. just shop around abit The standard size is 1/8 NPT inch for the tap. I dunno what drill size that is though
Nope the kit did not come with a tap. I am at a loss trying to figure out what size tap to use for the current hole. I cant remember what size it was haha.

EDIT: So I should be using teflon tape too?

Last edited by medisyn; 08-14-2007 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 08-14-2007, 11:44 PM   #28
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The tap is 1/8 NPT. If you have the tap and need to know the correct sized bit, look on the side of the tap where that info should be labeled. That's how mine is at any rate. You can buy a (single) drill bit and tap set at pepboys. Right sized bit for the tap. Magna covered the rest.

If you plug the hole with a bolt, it's going to stick into your I/C pipe. Make sure to trim it down. Sealant, I would use threadlocker, (or threadlocker blue for those parts you might change) instead of teflon tape.

Another option would be to take it somewhere and have them weld the 90 degree fitting to the I/C pipe since it's metal. This is the best option really, no leaks, no b.s.

The bit and tap aint gonna come with the kit. That's like expecting them to ship some meth with your order.

Lastly, you're really not running your begi afpr?
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:48 AM   #29
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My kit came with a tap. WTF also i have told you 304 times in this thread it is 1/8th inch. And a 90 is a bad idea the whole point of the nozzle is to have an optimal spray patern if it hits the wall of a 90 it won't be optimal for ****. get a nut and tap that then have it welded or buy bungs off ebay etc very simple. Of course they wont send the bit but a tap should come with any kit. If the DO kit's don't come with a tap i will most likely stop recomending them so much cause that is BS in my opinion.
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Old 08-15-2007, 09:52 AM   #30
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The tap is 1/8 NPT. If you have the tap and need to know the correct sized bit, look on the side of the tap where that info should be labeled. That's how mine is at any rate. You can buy a (single) drill bit and tap set at pepboys. Right sized bit for the tap. Magna covered the rest.

If you plug the hole with a bolt, it's going to stick into your I/C pipe. Make sure to trim it down. Sealant, I would use threadlocker, (or threadlocker blue for those parts you might change) instead of teflon tape.

Another option would be to take it somewhere and have them weld the 90 degree fitting to the I/C pipe since it's metal. This is the best option really, no leaks, no b.s.

The bit and tap aint gonna come with the kit. That's like expecting them to ship some meth with your order.

Lastly, you're really not running your begi afpr?
Was running late and went to Kragen and found metric and SAE taps. So I will look for these NTP taps later today. since my IC pipes are painted I dont feel like scraping that crap off so they can weld the 90 degree fitting on. If I can find somebody that will do it for near free then maybe I will consider it. So for right now I will look at just re-closing the hole.

Why no begi FMU? Well I got it from Andy Floyd a few years ago, I have no Idea if it works and its missing some stuff. (I doubt it works! Why else would he not be using it? Plus the top bolt part needed to be re-tapped. It took him like 3-7 weeks to ship the thing ) I am sure it needs at least a rebuild. I have been meaning to call BEGi to get a rebuild kit! Plus I don't wanna bother until I get a wideband. Whats the point?
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:11 AM   #31
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My kit came with a tap. WTF also i have told you 304 times in this thread it is 1/8th inch. And a 90 is a bad idea the whole point of the nozzle is to have an optimal spray patern if it hits the wall of a 90 it won't be optimal for ****. get a nut and tap that then have it welded or buy bungs off ebay etc very simple. Of course they wont send the bit but a tap should come with any kit. If the DO kit's don't come with a tap i will most likely stop recomending them so much cause that is BS in my opinion.
Ya no tap was included which I didn't expect. I figured since the instructions said to only use the tap when drilling into a intake manifold it was not needed. But looks like if you are going to use any metal intake you need to use the tap. No way the fitting was even CLOSE to fitting threw the hole with the recommended bit. I had to use 3-4 sized larger bits to even get the nozzle to fit through the hole. Frankly I am blaming the instructions, the relay wiring was all wrong. The tank outlet didn't fit threw the hole with the given instructions I had to drill larger just to get it to fit. Thank god it doesn't leak. By the time it was to install the nozzle I didn't trust the instructions. So I just went with what seemed to work. Which well didn't work!

The level switch which at like 20+ dollars was a complete ripoff, didn't have no instructions at all. You know that switch found somewhere else is less than a dollar! They didn't have the fancy self sealing one when I bought it. It was the glue and hope it holds switch with no instructions!

There was no way for me to figure out how to tighten that bastard without some magic, so I just used a lot of silicon glue! (no wrench would fit inside my 2.5 gal tank to hold the thing while I attempted to tighten!)

Devils Own stuff is fairly cheap (not bad cheap.) and seems to be of good quality but for how much they charge for the 2.5 gal tank the fitting and the level switch should come pre-installed! Really. Everybody just buy a 4.99 dollar gas tank instead of the devils own one. Its just a plastic one with a ****-load of plastic shavings inside of it. The rest of their stuff is fairly priced. The tanks. forget it its a complete rip.

Their 2.5 gal tank that is so expensive should have the level switch plus outlet fitting plus mounting kit all ready to go for 57 dollars. Really its build quality is like I said, as good as any gas tank you can get for 5 bucks. The tank has no pre-made fittings to help secure it down. Its zip-ties or some other sort of clamps.

I am happy with the kit, but pissed about the instructions, (and how dumb I am for ignoring it in some parts.) and the utter ripoff the tank is.

Sorry to say some negative stuff but I am rather miffed about their tanks. They suck ****.
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Old 08-15-2007, 10:23 AM   #32
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dude i think you are right 70$ for the tank is a ripoff. I told you that when you bought it. In leu of not comming with a tap i will withdraw my support for the kit. It is to bad to here about your experience. On a lighter note send me a link to the site for the 1$ flaot switch. Kthxbia GL man try fastenal for the tap.
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Old 08-15-2007, 12:24 PM   #33
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My tank was perfect when I recieved it. No shavings or anything like that. I am sorrry yours did not arrive as clean. The tanks are a little pricy but well worth not having a red gas can in the trunk. If you want to trade out the level switch for the new style one just let me know and I will get it swapped for you. I don't think the kit should come with a tap. Every single tap and die set comes with 1 1/8" NPT tap so its pretty common for people who are doing these sort of mods to already have one in their tool box.

If anyone is ever unhappy with a part of the kit or has a question just let me know. My phone number is in the large sale thread.
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Old 08-15-2007, 02:32 PM   #34
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Well i still support WOT but i am still shocked at the tap issue. the customer service WOT gives makes up for this in a way.
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Old 08-15-2007, 03:43 PM   #35
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I appreciate your support Magna but I still think a tap not being included in the kit is not a big deal. I could understand if it was a specialty tool that was made for a certain job but a 1/8" npt tap is something most of us either already have or certainly should have. Sure, maybe Snow of others include one but thats another reason they are sooooo much more expensive for essentially the same thing in a different wrapper.
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Old 08-15-2007, 04:59 PM   #36
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Thanks WOT thats badass of you, but the current level switch might as well stay in there. Its got a metric fuckton of sealant holding it in. See stuff like that is why I bought it from you. I knew if there was any problems I was 100% supported by you. Which is super cool.

Yup the kit should NOT come with a tap. They are super cheap anyways and is a tool that I should of had. This is more a Medisyn is stupid issue rather than any fault with the product.

Plastic shavings, etc. is not a big deal and takes like a few seconds to wash out. I was kinda blowing the problem out of perspective. You do make a good point WOT, it looks way better in the trunk than 4.99 red gas tank. Its kinda fancy to see the blue fluid sloshing around.
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Old 08-15-2007, 07:07 PM   #37
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I just want you to be happy so let me know if I can do anything. I haven't been as good lately about answering my PM's since I have been holy **** busy and it doesn't look to be letting up any time soon but I am trying to stay on top of stuff.
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Old 08-15-2007, 08:42 PM   #38
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I just want you to be happy so let me know if I can do anything. I haven't been as good lately about answering my PM's since I have been holy **** busy and it doesn't look to be letting up any time soon but I am trying to stay on top of stuff.
No man you have by FAR did your job. You gave me a nice discount and quick service.
Well the kit is working as advertised, the nozzle is just leaking. I just need to get that fixed up. Driving it today even with the leak the car feels a lot more responsive with the timing bumped back up. Rev matching and such seems to work better. (Weird?) Boost seems to build at partial throttle once I am over ~2500-2900 rpm. This is with stock exhaust and DP + cat. 5-6 psi by 3k rpm in 3rd up. Nothing special, but not too bad for the crap exhaust. I have the nozzle turn on around 4+ psi. I don't notice any bogging or any such other problems.

The ultimate test is to drive up Highway 9. That would always heat-soak the crap out of my car and result in a glowing manifold and turbo! Its all up hill 2nd and 3rd gear turns. I would love to see how much the WI will bring down the exhaust temps. That is not going to happen until the leak is fixed.


I will take some pictures later. In my opinion pictures will help a lot for others thinking of trunk mounting. I know another guy on the forums has done the same. I pretty much copied how he did it. Running the lines and wiring is pretty easy. I am just a retard and everything took me 3x the time! It took me working half-assed with beer 3 nights of working a few hours each night. :gay:

EDIT. This might be retarded but does a small amount of water/meth blow out the BOV? It sounds a little different and was wondering.
EDIT#2: NeoGenesis2004 thanks for helping answer my questions a few months ago.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:39 PM   #39
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Ok I ended up drilling that too-large hole to 13/32 (.406 in.) any idea on what size tap I would need?

EDIT: Looks like I should drill the hole out to 7/16 and then use a 1/4in NPT tap? Then just a 1/4" in pipe cap fitting do the trick?

Last edited by medisyn; 08-16-2007 at 07:50 PM.
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:33 PM   #40
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OK 24 dollars later, I have the right stuff.
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