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Apologies for my silence. Had to take a break to move, back in June. That's all done now but I'm just overwhelmed with my real job and the family, and I'm trying to catch up on bushings as well. I have all of your emails Im sure, and I'll do my best to get this ball rolling again starting this weekend. I'll try to get everyone responded to in the next few days with etas. These hubs are easier to get knocked out than the bushing kits so I should be able to work through the list of orders quickly once I dedicate some time to it. I appreciate everyone's patience!
Apologies for my silence. Had to take a break to move, back in June. That's all done now but I'm just overwhelmed with my real job and the family, and I'm trying to catch up on bushings as well. I have all of your emails Im sure, and I'll do my best to get this ball rolling again starting this weekend. I'll try to get everyone responded to in the next few days with etas. These hubs are easier to get knocked out than the bushing kits so I should be able to work through the list of orders quickly once I dedicate some time to it. I appreciate everyone's patience!
Well' I will give it to the end of this month for a reply of what is happening and then I will have to look else where.
I can't see them being made up and shipped in time if there is a back order.
The cars first event is 1st of March 2020.
Will look into getting hubs machined up locally, but may even just put OEM Mazda ones in, Already have the bearings, seals and ARP studs for OEM setup anyway.
Going off this post from Sean ( https://www.miataturbo.net/race-prep...3/#post1468211 ) I went ahead and purchased Lancer ARP stud ( 100-7717 ).
I wanted these for the longer 3" UHL vs IS 300 stud since I run a pretty large rear spacer ( exocet ).
IMO these stud do not work without drilling a bigger hole. I was able to get it in with my HF press but it actually forced the surround metal out of shape a little bit and the circumference of the hub is now out of round. I didn't notice this while i was pressing it in but it is pretty obvious even visually after the fact.
Do you guys think this is junk now or still salvagable if I press it back out .. drill the hole bigger .. and press it back in ?
Urg .. yeah that's what I was thinking too. I guess my fault for not double checking after I pressed the original lugs out. It was only .4975 diameter not .559 as expected from Sean's post. Maybe different batches of MR2S hubs ?
Yea the oem toyota hub is 0.559". The china hubs I use, use their own stud size of 0.500". There are only 2 hub choices for mr2s; OEM at about $340 a pair, my cost, and (what appears to be from product listing pics) one chinese manufacturer under a few brands for about 1/10 of that.
Sorry, I would have given you a heads up if I knew your plans!
Yea the oem toyota hub is 0.559". The china hubs I use, use their own stud size of 0.500". There are only 2 hub choices for mr2s; OEM at about $340 a pair, my cost, and (what appears to be from product listing pics) one chinese manufacturer under a few brands for about 1/10 of that.
Sorry, I would have given you a heads up if I knew your plans!
pm inbound
So which model ARP stud kit do you use in your machined hubs? Model/part number.
Or do you drill the China Hubs to make the IS300 studs Kit #: 100-7715 work?
Edit.
Also another question, regarding ARP studs to anyone that knows the answer.ARP specifies a UHL(Under Head Length) which I gather is the total length of the stud under the head.
Some studs have a rounded nose(EVO8, and MX-5 models) where as some are just threaded to the end (IS300).
Also Knurl lengths vary as well.
Does the UHL also include the rounded nose and knurl length in that measurement?
If it does then the EVO studs are a waste of time over IS300 ones as they only have 0.05" more thread length even though they are 0.4" longer. 0.35" wasted in the round nose.
Last edited by Luke; 11-16-2019 at 07:32 PM.
Reason: Stud Question
I put in an order for hubs and bronze bushings on the site back in May. Can you give me some idea where I am in the line?
I have an Exocet like Pho Cup (he actually just lives about 20min away) I like the option of longer studs because of the funky clearance issues of the Exocet frame.
Edit.
Also another question, regarding ARP studs to anyone that knows the answer.ARP specifies a UHL(Under Head Length) which I gather is the total length of the stud under the head.
Some studs have a rounded nose(EVO8, and MX-5 models) where as some are just threaded to the end (IS300).
Also Knurl lengths vary as well.
Does the UHL also include the rounded nose and knurl length in that measurement?
If it does then the EVO studs are a waste of time over IS300 ones as they only have 0.05" more thread length even though they are 0.4" longer. 0.35" wasted in the round nose.
I emailed ARP regarding the question about UHL Under Head Length.
It does include the Knurl and Rounded nose.
So there you have it.
Unless you want the rounded nose there really is no advantage in which one you pick. 0.05"/1.27mm of extra thread length on the EVO studs.
Originally Posted by Cxracer
Hi Sean,
I put in an order for hubs and bronze bushings on the site back in May. Can you give me some idea where I am in the line?
I have an Exocet like Pho Cup (he actually just lives about 20min away) I like the option of longer studs because of the funky clearance issues of the Exocet frame.
Andy Volk
See above for whether you choose to go with EVO 8 or IS300 studs as the actually threaded length has nothing in it.
It's still a good question as we don't really know what is coming with the hub. I thought they were IS300???
Sean got back to me via email, so have another go.
I wonder if that is what Sean is putting in? Would make the most sense to use them if the holes are 0.5" like he says. Less machining/drilling work required.
Sean confirmed to me that he drills his hubs and fits the IS300 studs.
Sean also confirmed he can custom drill to what ever stud hole size your require, obviously he cannot go smaller.
So if you need really, really log studs like the GM 3.25' ones, contact him first when you put your order in.
The reason I don't use the Camaro studs is because at the start of this I hadn't quite figured out that all Chinese hubs come with a 0.500" hole, and more importantly I have found it to be better to drill out a fresh clean hole to press a knurl into. Not that I haven't had success in the past with pressing a new stud into a used hole (giggity), but you can feel an inconsistency in the press handle, some would go in too easy, while others hard. Probably depends on how the new knurls line up with the depressions in the hub left by the previous studs knurl. I just find it better to drill a new hole, as I don't want a borderline looser stud getting knocked out because you bumped it with your rim while trying to remount your wheels, or whatever. And I don't use the miata and other studs for the length reasons mentioned above.
09-26-2019, 01:35 PM
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