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Idle jump with car in gear and clutch pedal still pressed in

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Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Besusjesus
Thanks for the info, i'll look into that. Not sure it will be the cause since the problem goes away with the factory ecu..but i'll try anything.
check what signal the ecu is looking for from the gear box maybe the perameters are different for the neutral position im not too clued up on maps ill be honest but im guessing the ecu will look for a specific signal from the clutch switch and neutral position sensor so it know when to crank the rpms up a touch if its recieving a signal outside the idle perameters from the sensor then it will crank up the rpm's surely ??? even though they arnt needed
Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:24 PM
  #22  
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The clutch switch is irrelevant, OP just needs to tune his idle control valve.

If it's a 1.6, 480hz for the idle valve is wrong.
Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by deezums
The clutch switch is irrelevant, OP just needs to tune his idle control valve.

If it's a 1.6, 480hz for the idle valve is wrong.
like i say im not too clued up with the map side just know whats effected my idle in the past when everything else was fine
im sure with plenty of reading and research i will learn a lot more espcially with experianced guys to bleed info from lol
Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:48 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by deezums
The clutch switch is irrelevant, OP just needs to tune his idle control valve.

If it's a 1.6, 480hz for the idle valve is wrong.
I didn't notice that..I set it to 313hz and also tried 279..the idle is smoother but the idle jump when i go into gear persists..maybe i'm not fully understanding the idle valve tuning.
Old Jun 11, 2016 | 03:56 PM
  #25  
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There is a value in all of your datalogs, it's called PWM idle duty or something like that. That's a metered vac leak, controls the idle speed. You need to look and see if there's a relationship between that value and the idle jump, if there is you lower the value by changing the tune.

It could be something else, idle timing or something, but I bet it's the idle valve.
Old Jun 11, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #26  
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gotcha, I took a log. I see that when i g=put the car into gear it jumps from 32 to 45 on the pwm idle duty. Take it out of gear and it drops back down to 32. So this will be tuned in closed loop then?
Old Jun 11, 2016 | 05:07 PM
  #27  
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When you use CL you get several ways to change what they call "initial value" for the idle valve, plus the dashpot for returning to idle. Closed loop is just supposed to target an idle valve position to coolant temperature, that's the only input parameter. I don't really have much of an explanation for the jump if you aren't using closed loop, but that's something that can be controlled with closed loop much easier.


Old Jun 11, 2016 | 09:31 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by deezums
When you use CL you get several ways to change what they call "initial value" for the idle valve, plus the dashpot for returning to idle. Closed loop is just supposed to target an idle valve position to coolant temperature, that's the only input parameter. I don't really have much of an explanation for the jump if you aren't using closed loop, but that's something that can be controlled with closed loop much easier.
Thanks Deezums. I'll start playing with CL. Still seems kinda of odd this didn't happen on the tune that i had..just appeared after i added fuel to my idle cells..
Old Jun 12, 2016 | 08:15 PM
  #29  
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So, nothing i touched in closed or open loop seemed to effect the issue..I decided to do the good old "turn if off and on again"..i set idle control to off, then burned it to ecu and set it back to open loop like it was before..issue is now gone! Not sure WTF was going on, but the problems have stopped..Thanks everyone who helped in on this thread, i really appreciate it.
Old Jun 13, 2016 | 09:19 AM
  #30  
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Can you post a log?
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