Rushin

iTrader: (3)

haha, sounds like a really bad situation. I think thats why my idle reading is like 18-19 afr. But the car runs fine. And i bet thats why i keep getting misfires at idle as well. Well hopefully an exhaust clamp will fix the problem.

Rushin

iTrader: (3)

got both a u-clamp and the band clamp. Band clamp did not fit because it was too large. 2.5" was too big for a 2.3 or so inch pipe. So i used the 2.5 inch u-clamp that was a little too big but still squeezed the pipe. Its not leaking as bad as it did before but still a little bit.

As for the coolant leak, i got a nice uv flash light and dye for the coolant. It looks like the coolant is coming from the nipple on the back of the thermostat. I think i need a new nipple that is an oem part not a universal one.

I seem to get a strange stutter again. I was driving on the high way and a few times the car stuttered and i could see the rpm gauge drop really quick from 3k to 2k and back. It almost feels like i loose spark for a split second. Could the coolant getting something wet and shorting it? The leak is close to the CAS.

Mikeymx5

iTrader: (2)

Weld them and cut off the holder for that long bolt.... sure its a pain but you will end up doing it anyway after a year of pulling hair.

Rushin

iTrader: (3)

I dont really want to weld them together. It will be a pain to remove the downpipe if i have to later. I will just use a u-clamp. it looks like its much better now but i think i will use another one.

thymer

iTrader: (5)

Are you talking about the back of the engine (your coolant leak)?

Rushin

iTrader: (3)

yep, right near the CAS where the rear thermostat is. I think its coming from the nipple there. I cant get a small enough clamp to keep the nipple round. I put a zip tie around it instead of the clamp it looks like its more round now. Not sure if a zip tie can hold it but we will see. I out die in my coolant and can see its coming from that area. Its not a slow leak it really sprays out of there and makes it all the way under the washer fluid tank.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you should probably replace the cap, they fail.

Rushin

iTrader: (3)

The rubber cap?
I did replace the rubber cap. But i forgot to put a clamp on it a long time ago. so when i went for a drive it got blow off. So i got a generic one from Napa and it does not fit too well. I just ordered the OEM one.

Rushin

iTrader: (3)

the leak was from the rubber cap btw and the u-clamp fixed the leak. Now on to the other problem...

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Well, I thought the U-clamp would hold.


It didn't. I blew the bottom half of my downpipe off launching the car. Actually I was in first near redline. I think running stock exhaust doesn't help, I must be building up some pressure in it as well as the whole inertia of stock system.

I really torqued on that bastard, so I need a better style clamp. Could be because DP is used, and deformed to the position it was in on the original install. Who knows, but I've got to find something better until exhaust parts get here and I can get them installed with less pull on this joint (can't fully insert joint and still connect DP to stock cat).

Anyone know where to get the the band clamps at local auto parts stores?

Not seeing them on websites, and spent ALL of last week running to every store for bolts etc, would like to save some time. Thanks in advance.

Mikeymx5

iTrader: (2)

Some one told me orally has them but they are a special order.

Im starting to have clearance issues with my down pipe again, I will probably be contacting FM this time as I have had enough if this $#!%. Im hoping that the FM pipe can be substituted as it appears there turbos are in a similar location.

gospeed81

iTrader: (51)

Yeah, the lower section of my DP is too short to slip all the way into the joint, I only get about an inch of overlap.

As soon as my metalcat gets here from deliverator I'm going straight to the muffler shop and getting a system built all the way back, with a little more slack in it for the overlap.

Not being able to romp on it in the meantime sucks though.

Haven't found the clamps locally, but am about to check -god forbid- vatozone.


Having exhaust parts not fit/fall off sucks when you have a car that wants to go fast.

jayc72

iTrader: (14)

Get the joint welded, end of problem.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

However, on the flipside, with the joint there its pretty easy to remove/replace the downpipe with the turbo still in the car. It would be unpossible without the joint there.

Mikeymx5

iTrader: (2)

the down pipe can be remove in 1 piece on my 03, you just have to have the car up real high.

mandrel-bends

Replace the slip joint with a vband assembly. This will eliminate your problem and facilitate easy removal.