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Dyno, new Bell Engineering turbo..

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Old 07-30-2014, 05:00 PM
  #61  
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I agree, those are good IC's from reputable companies. Where I'm coming from is pushing IC cores to the next level, something Corky can pull off.

I included a link in post #51, a tiny insight, from the guys at Ambient Thermal Management. They weld on half-rounds on each row to reduce aero drag both within the charge volume and through the ambient.

Since the half rounds are hand welded it adds a lot of labor cost. I would hope there's a way to manufacture cores with similar aerodynamic improvements, but that's for Corky to give us a reality check on.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:07 PM
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I think i'd like to see Corky pull off a tubular manifold that doesn't crack bi-yearly first. Then maybe redesigning/eliminating the stupid BPV crossover tube crap. Finally moving to aluminum intercooler piping instead of coated/immediately flaking mild steel piping is a good step in the right direction.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:27 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Ryephile
Yup. I bought his book, read it cover to cover, and also purchased his products. That doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement.
Just checking as you are not a known quantity. You sounded a lot like the average n00b we get rolling in here once a week trying to teach everyone how to do things "better" because they've been watching MightyCarMods on youtube or some ****. I see where you are coming from and believe it or not I agree on some of your points. Notice I didn't do the proverbial bash n trash, but asked a simple question.

Originally Posted by Ryephile
I nut swing on merit, not internet cool points.
aaaaaaand then you went and made it weird and hostile. I'm someone who could actually have a legitimate beef with BEGI/Corky if I really wanted, but I choose not to. I asked a simple question, that's all. Check your privilege or whatever the cool kids say these days. Its not a pissing match, we are all here to learn and give feedback.

Personally, I appreciate the fact that Corky is still a site sponsor/vendor. It's amazing that he bothers to come around at all considering the volume of monkeys hurling **** around here.
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Old 07-30-2014, 05:37 PM
  #64  
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Sorry for making it weird, I do that sometimes. FWIW I did not nor will I ever consciously intend to make things hostile. I'll readily admit when I'm clueless about something, but will assert when I have applicable wisdom. My phrasing was intended to show I'm not a blind fan-boi of anyone, and greatly appreciate specific solutions that solve real problems.

I'm seriously not trying to not hurl ****, but preset a little slice of perspective for a solution that's contextually appropriate; Corky looking to find that last "1%" and get more power from the same boost.

Peace, I'm out of here until we get some real info.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:06 AM
  #65  
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Aluminum tubes; as a should be well trained injuneer by now, I can't quite show why a steel tube sheds virtually the same heat as an aluminum tube. Best guess is the hurricane overwhelms the heat transfer coef. But, but, but, it can't. Or can it?

BIC has a grid we use to streamline the core entry when the need arises. The "need" comes from two sources; so much boost the core needs more strength, and/or the flow is so high that losses get a bit out of hand. For the Miata, cutting the flow loss by maybe 10% will prove nearly zip. Decidedly not worth the trouble.

We (BIC) does make an IC for a Lotus performance parts seller.

The remote gate is worth a noticeable amount of power. Plus, boost creeps go away. We've cured (?) boost creep with the stinking integral gate 27 times. Every time we change something for a tick more flow, we're right back in creep again. Phone calls regarding creepers are not the high point of the day.

Take a look at the flow paths through the system from head to dnpipe. Its all a nice even shot to both gate and turbo. The bends are generous and the path is smooth. This is not a gate welded at a right angle to the flow path atop the turbine housing, thus closely emulating the same old integral thing. Plus, the empty pocket at the original integral gate gets plugged and baffled so the exit flow is not screwed up.

The dnpipe has only two bends. I made the dnpipe first so it could lie in one plane. It is straighter and has a gob more clearance everywhere. Add a couple adjustments; it can swing 5 degrees at the turbo, lengthen/shorten two inches up/dn, and even change overall length. Of course, the tube tapers outward from whatever the turbine exit dictates to a larger section at the cat entry, just as any honorable dnpipe ought to do. Also made the w/g vent tube longer and arranged an easy, yet supported, dump to atmo if desired. Surprisingly, that atmo dump adds about 22% to the flow area. Then put a brace from pipe to tranny.

The turbo is raised up an inch or two. Its no longer necessary to cut the frame ledge for anything bigger than a 2554. No cutting even for 50108. That'll teach 'em to copy.

With the higher turbo position, a hood shield is provided, although not really needed. Its on the hood (naturally). There is also shield for the bake stuff.

Every time I calc fuel available and measure the actual fuel pressure, I come up with 234 hp a bsfc of .55. Would it not be reasonable to lower the boost with less octane? We will send a lighter spring for the gate and force its use with verbal coercion.
The reflash technique can use injectors up to 450 cc/min. We'll try that very soon.

The original four cars have weld el manifolds. In my view, these are not good enough and require too many lousy/difficult intersections. I've got the pattern and core box done for a pretty nifty little casting. Its the first time I've tried a specific feature in the collector, which a casting permits. This is taking the oval shaped ports coming out of the head and twisting the oval 90 degrees as it heads for the collector at which point it is much easier to merge into a nice shape. The runners also taper 10% over the distance to match what the turbine housing initially does to the velocities. Now, tell me that's not fun. Except, of course, for a sawdust allergy. Ductile iron, of course. The casting is only for the 1.8's, btw.

You need to see the cool air horn on the front of the turbo. We found a way to press it out of a 2.75 inch tube with the use of a hydraulic press. Different piece for a flow meter, of course, had to machine a half donut and stuff it into the filter.

Same old well anchored stainless braid oil/water lines.

I've probably forgotten the rest of it....... thanks for your indulgence.

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Old 08-02-2014, 02:29 PM
  #66  
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Thanks for the clarifications corky. Looking forward to see the final production parts when its all said and done.
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