2860RS makes much more sense, at least on the bottom. The car should still drop torque from 5k up using a factory VICS manifold. Do you have a boost trace we can look at?

 

Yeah that curve I mean ramp looks like straight up boost creep. Not that there's anything wrong with boost creep if your car can support it.

 

Boost creep on a stock exhaust?

 

+1 on Ken Hill. Going back to when I first got my Link ECU and he was still at FM, ~10 years ago, he helped me out a lot. Very nice guy.

And I ran RC440's at 57psi base pressure to get my 289rwhp dynojet/mt.net dyno daze (big TT's). I was at ~270 with the 2560.

 

From Ken Hill to me:

The only problem is I ordered the 2560!!!

Your turbo has the following markings:
739548-5001S
OHM61944

I went to www.turbobygarrett.com

hoping to search on the model number but did not find that function. I did look up a GT2860RS and its part number starts with 739548. I then looked up a GT2560R and its part number starts with 466541.

 

Yep, that's a spud.
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant...egory_Code=GRT

C

 

That's why I didn't suggest it, but Faefail is right - looks like boost creep on the top is propping up the torque curve. It doesn't make sense with a stock exhaust, though...

 

Unfortunately I did not log the boost. I was using a known manual controller I keep in my tool box. The gauge held steady at 12psi. And yes, I realize boost gauges can be off by a pound or so in either direction.

There was never a doubt in my mind this car was running a 2860RS. I just did not realize the owner did not know. I have run two other 'taters with Xedes one with a tubular manifold on a '96 that only made 233hp. I could not get enough fuel to go higher and the owner ran out of money. The other with a cast manifold on a '00. That car made 257hp at about 11psi.

I get the '96 back in about two weeks. The new owner is having me install a Link. I'm eager to see what I can do with it.

Thank you all for the kinds words. I do appreciate it.

 

Is there a reason you are going with the Link instead of something newer? From what I understand the Link is no longer sold and does not really have any future plans for updates or anything.

 

he might as well install 16 powercards.

 

Beyond harsh. The FM LINK is much more capable than 16 powercards, just because it's old doens't make it bad.

It's as good as if not better than MS1.

 

Care to back this up with some experience or examples?

 

I have never used it, but I did just look through the manual and it does seem to have some pretty advanced features for it's time, but with a pretty archaic interface. I wounder how well the knock detection is on it.

 

OP want to sell me your xede? I will buy the xede plus the xede harness

 

Yeah I've used and tuned both.

I'm not knocking MegaSquirt, hell I know I've been using the system longer than you have. But the LINK is more than capebale, hell it has decent knock sensing on board which the MS1 is completely incapable of.

Care to give a decent reason as to why the FM link is junk?

 

Off the top of the head, the Link has crappy fuel/spark table resolution (worse than MS1 which is really saying something), no adjustable RPM/load breakpoints, and no dwell control.

 

Any of you guys Xede fans?

 

What Link are you guys comparing here, FM Link, G1 Link, G3 Link, G4 Link....?

 

The LINK table is a weird size, 6x10 or something. but it interpolates in-between? For the other two sure they're nice to have if you're one of the few with non standard coils or a weird setup, swings and roundabouts really as the FM LINK has knock control and decent boost control, I know what I'd rather have...

I'm not saying the FM LINK is amazing, but it's much better than you give it credit for.

MX5-Kiwi, I'm talking about the FM LINK. the G3/G4 wipes the floor with a MS1!

 

We'll have to agree to disagree. 6x10 tables are really, really awful - even the 12x12 MS1 tables are not particularly well regarded. MS2 is 16x16, AEM is 17x21, and those sizes are just about perfect. The old 24x24 Hydra tables are too big, and the new 32x32 tables are annoyingly large. The fact that you can't adjust the breakpoints on the 6x10 table makes the problem infinitely worse - if the 6 load breakpoints aren't in the right spot, it's just not possible to tune the car the way you might want to tune it.

I think there are significantly more users here with non-factory coils than you think there are. Non-adjustable dwell means that you are basically locked into stock coils, which means you can't use high boost without running very narrow plug gaps, which turns the idle to ----.

Boost control and knock control are important, but plenty of people sell standalone boost/knock setups. Nothing fixes crappy table resolution.