Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 424538)
And run at Spa Francorchamps the week after.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 424565)
spooky...did you have a failure or not?
So, to finalize conclusions I am going to Resbond them all with stainless studs and report back. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 424572)
Wait, a track day at Spa?! Dude!!!!!
Ok, and the Nürburgring :) |
Can you stay flat through Eau Rouge? :)
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 424597)
Yes, I love that track. You guys have Laguna Seca, we've got Spa.
Ok, and the Nürburgring :) |
Originally Posted by JasonC SBB
(Post 424599)
Can you stay flat through Eau Rouge? :)
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 424595)
So, to finalize conclusions I am going to Resbond them all with stainless studs and report back.
Edit: You always had problems on track right? Studs/nuts failing after second sessions? |
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 424656)
Where does one get stainless studs? I am yet to find any. Edit: You always had problems on track right? Studs/nuts failing after second sessions?
Yes, loosening on the track since day one. |
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 424658)
I am having OTS make me some. I will ask him what material it is exactly.
Yes, loosening on the track since day one. |
Originally Posted by thesnowboarder
(Post 424660)
Mind seeing if they could make a few? I am sure we would be interested in them if they do hold up.
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Mcmaster.com has stainless studs
McMaster-Carr |
Ive had my lugs come loose after I fooled around doing some burnouts, I was leaving and I heard a clunking 2 were falling off...and i did torque them to 100lbs! Had my waterpump bolts back out which were lock-tighted, and i just pulled out my motor last week because it sounded like a spring/lifter collapsed, but it was my cam gear bolt backed out a bit and my gear was sloppy so it created a oval shape inside the gear where the camshaft pinion goes in, so it caused a ticking noise. The guy who built my motor fixed it all for free, im only upset because i had to pull out my whole motor for a stupid cam gear :@
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Originally Posted by stranges12712
(Post 424712)
Ive had my lugs come loose after I fooled around doing some burnouts, I was leaving and I heard a clunking 2 were falling off...and i did torque them to 100lbs! Had my waterpump bolts back out which were lock-tighted, and i just pulled out my motor last week because it sounded like a spring/lifter collapsed, but it was my cam gear bolt backed out a bit and my gear was sloppy so it created a oval shape inside the gear where the camshaft pinion goes in, so it caused a ticking noise. The guy who built my motor fixed it all for free, im only upset because i had to pull out my whole motor for a stupid cam gear :@
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Originally Posted by stranges12712
(Post 424712)
Ive had my lugs come loose after I fooled around doing some burnouts, I was leaving and I heard a clunking 2 were falling off...and i did torque them to 100lbs! Had my waterpump bolts back out which were lock-tighted, and i just pulled out my motor last week because it sounded like a spring/lifter collapsed, but it was my cam gear bolt backed out a bit and my gear was sloppy so it created a oval shape inside the gear where the camshaft pinion goes in, so it caused a ticking noise. The guy who built my motor fixed it all for free, im only upset because i had to pull out my whole motor for a stupid cam gear :@
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Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 424085)
He said to use stainless studs, not hardened steel.
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 422690)
When I first had that top brace built, there was a single stainless-steel bolt and nut holding it together. I tightened it up, safety wired it, and it was tight. 2 track sessions later and I can spin the bolt/nut.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 424865)
stainless-steel bolt and nut |
Originally Posted by Spookyfish
(Post 424860)
18/8 is pretty regular stainless and OTS told me that what they use is different from your bread and butter stainless that you find at every home depot.
I shopped briefly for some A286 fasteners but all I could find was very expensive. I know of a project here we are using A286 fasteners for, but it is a high-end NASA application. |
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex
(Post 424906)
Well they also have 316SS. You need to find out what alloy they are using if you want to duplicate it since there are a lot of different stainless alloys out there. For example, if they are using A286, which is a corrosion resistant superalloy, that is a LOT different. It is a high strength steel, which depending on how it is heat treated can be up to 150+ ksi ultimate. 316ss is half that.
I shopped briefly for some A286 fasteners but all I could find was very expensive. I know of a project here we are using A286 fasteners for, but it is a high-end NASA application. $17/ each for American sizes: McMaster-Carr Air power systems use A286 studs and copper lock nuts in their turbo kits. You should contact them for metric sizes. |
I have been trying to get a SM Turbo type of class going for a while now. The cars I build use A286 fasteners. I don't know of anyone else who can say they have raced- and won - endurance races in a Turbo Miata. 4 hours in 2008, 8 hours in 2009.
Seems everyone wants to build a better mousetrap. If you want a proven solution, you can get me at kverges "at" figdav.com. I have 2 built cars ready to race. |
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