unbolting my **** once > 3x.

 

First off, best thread in a decade. Bitch'n job all of you! Big up's to Savi for being a great mod and keeping all the clowns out of this thread! I break M10 studs on mountain run's, let alone at the track! I am also caring for will's car as well as SONNY's MSM beast. I am currently undergoing my last revision of the cast pieces. 12mm x 1.50 in the Mani to turbo; 10x 1.25 in the turbo to outlet as well as the outlet to DP. Clearance of nuts seams to be the biggest issue thus far. Most areas can be worked on to make space for the larger nut's. I fell that the integrity of the turbo house as well as the other cast pieces may become an issue; But I also fell like I would not be able to die in peace if I do not at least try the 12-10-10 setup. Has anyone done THIS yet? Savi? Tim? ? ******* HARDWARE ON THE TURBO SUCKS I hope the new setup savi is trying WORKS! 1 more time and I have had it with hardware

 

Nice to know that my lathe is still getting a good workout.

Partially related (and possibly stupid) question:

Nuts / bolts in a traditional flanged application seem to be a problem in severe duty. Why aren't the v-band crowd having this issue? Surely just as much heat there, and a similar potential for materials to expand against the fastener.

 

Simple question. Has anyone tried 12-10-10? If so; What was the out come after a real session?

 

Interestingly, the v-bands on some of the heavy equipment downpipes fracture somewhat regularly, and some not at all. I always attributed it to the weight/position of the muffler assembly vs. engine movement, but it could be that certain types of machines are more likely to experience repetitive rapid cooldown cycles than others. And those are the ones I see failing more often.

 

Just for reference, at today's 100* track day at Oregon Raceway Park, I wasn't having any issues with my new stainless hardware and (OMG) nordlocks. I'm not saying the hardware is the reason for it staying together (nordlocks weren't working what-so-ever with my standard studs+nuts), but I believe the difference in track was a big contributor. max speed was 95 twice as apposed to 110 twice at PIR, and now FIA curbing either. I'd say keeping up with cueball1 on R-comps and passing another upgraded mazdaspeed who was also on r-comps proves I wasn't exactly slow. (BTW, all miatas at track day were turbo'd, boo-ya)

 

It depends based on the material, and lockwasher. The material I'm using is so superior to standard steels at operating temperature that you would break a standard bolt if you torqued it this much. Its all ad-hoc when it comes to torque. You change one thing in the system and everything is WRONG.

THe torque with my hardware will be 18-25 foot lbs. I will be using the rod-length method to see how much it takes to meet the actual pre-load.

 

Its a special grade, I can't give away all the goods. M10 on the flange and M8 on the down pipe. M8 on the flange will work too. Thats just what hustler has.

 

gt2860rs (.86AR) clearance phayle:

 

I'm going to try Travis' studs, if those fail or the manifold warps I'm calling tim. The cash fell out of the sky today.

I hope my cast **** fails.

 

Is this 12-10-10 with a side of fail? or just another 10-8-8? WTF?

 

Erik, why switch the head up to 12 and the DP up to 10? I've never had a head stud come loose, and the DP is pretty bulletproof as well.

 

cylinder head studs stay at 10x1.25; Turbo manifold to turbo studs change to 12x1.50 then the weak point will be the 8x1.25 studs in the turbo to outlet as well as outlet to DP. These studs should be up sized to 10x1.25; The moment I put the brace on sonny's MSM I notice the turbo to outlet studs under way more stress! The brace works; but only very little. If the turbo mani 2 turbo studs were up sized to 12, then the outlet hardware must follow or failure is certain.=[

 

How do you fit M12 nuts onto the studs? As is, we are forced to use low-profile 14mm nuts and those are a tight fit. The 15mm nuts BEGi supplied me simply didn't fit without grinding away at the turbine housing.

 

I can fit and torque all 4 with 15mm heads if I remove the water outlet (the one near the head) just takes the right wrench. But I don't see 12mm studs fit easily either.

 

Still working on roadsters.....Savi u are right the hardware Corkey supplies is the oversized ****! In a 10MM size these nuts are still slightly bigger than the 12MM copper plated euro nuts that have the slit on the top as a locking mechanism. In the earlier pic the nut does not bottom out because it is a flanged nut. You can clearly see the flanged part of the nut come into contact w the turbo house. However the euro nuts are flange less and built for a tight profile. BTW was that in fact a 12-10-10 or just another 10-8-8? Oh yeah congrats on the current setup

 

Travis: have you done the calculations that illustrate the stretch recovery in 8mm studs vs. 10mm studs vs. 12+mm studs?

 

is sonny warping manifolds?

 

Who?

 

read the thread or I'm going to beat your ***.