EPIC nuts/studs loosening thread (reposting stupid stuff without reading = warning)
04-20-2010, 05:13 PM
#1101
The thing with Inconel if I understand it correctly is that on the first machine pass it is fairly easy to cut. After the first pass it becomes harder on tools to grind and cut it where the initial cut has occurred. Link: http://www.espi-metals.com/tech/mach...kel&alloys.pdf
The reason I asked about them was I was thinking about using them for exhaust manifold to engine studs for my build (not on a B6 or BP)...
The reason I asked about them was I was thinking about using them for exhaust manifold to engine studs for my build (not on a B6 or BP)...
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04-30-2010, 12:09 AM
#1110
Hit it with your choice of penetrating oil for a couple days(I've found Kroil works best for me). Heat is also your friend, a few heat/cool/kroil cycles with a propane torch can work wonders. Take the downpipe loose (enough to pull it a few inches away from the turbo) and grab the stub with a stud puller or some vice grips.
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04-30-2010, 12:11 AM
#1111
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It appears that the bolt goes all the way through, in which case i would spray some PB blaster on it the night before (cold, obviously) and take a pair of small vice grips and turn it counter clock wise till the threads appeared on the dp side. Continue using vice grips till you remove the entire thing.
If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.
If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.
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04-30-2010, 12:32 AM
#1112
It appears that the bolt goes all the way through, in which case i would spray some PB blaster on it the night before (cold, obviously) and take a pair of small vice grips and turn it counter clock wise till the threads appeared on the dp side. Continue using vice grips till you remove the entire thing.
If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.
If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.
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04-30-2010, 04:58 PM
#1117
It appears that the bolt goes all the way through, in which case i would spray some PB blaster on it the night before (cold, obviously) and take a pair of small vice grips and turn it counter clock wise till the threads appeared on the dp side. Continue using vice grips till you remove the entire thing.
If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.
If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.
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04-30-2010, 05:05 PM
#1118
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The downpipe studs don't seem to back out or get loose, but they get INCREDIBLY brittle. I always use penetrating oil before even touching those nuts on a car that's seen track time. I've broken a lot of them in my own car.
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04-30-2010, 10:05 PM
#1119
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Well count me in as an official subscriber to this thread.
Loud wooshing sound coming from the turbo area under boost, and the car has felt down on power lately - I had this problem ~6 months ago - the original greddy manifold bolts had become stretched and loose and wouldn't re-tighten, so I swapped them out for a forum member's suggestions:
ATP turbo studs and locking nuts and the FM lock washers
Did the miatas @ MRLS track day and an autocross and now, like I said, the same symptoms. Checked, and the nuts are loose - not only are the nuts loose, the studs are loose. I could spin the whole stud with my finger. Re-tightened them and all is well for now, but I'm sure that won't be the last of it.
-Ryan
Loud wooshing sound coming from the turbo area under boost, and the car has felt down on power lately - I had this problem ~6 months ago - the original greddy manifold bolts had become stretched and loose and wouldn't re-tighten, so I swapped them out for a forum member's suggestions:
ATP turbo studs and locking nuts and the FM lock washers
Did the miatas @ MRLS track day and an autocross and now, like I said, the same symptoms. Checked, and the nuts are loose - not only are the nuts loose, the studs are loose. I could spin the whole stud with my finger. Re-tightened them and all is well for now, but I'm sure that won't be the last of it.
-Ryan
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