The thing with Inconel if I understand it correctly is that on the first machine pass it is fairly easy to cut. After the first pass it becomes harder on tools to grind and cut it where the initial cut has occurred. Link: http://www.espi-metals.com/tech/mach...kel&alloys.pdf

The reason I asked about them was I was thinking about using them for exhaust manifold to engine studs for my build (not on a B6 or BP)...

 

What's wrong with having some of the stud sticking out?

 

Nothing. It's an aesthetics thing.

 

On my SR20 T25 I had to cut the studs down so that I could actually get the turbo on and the nuts tightened down. The space between the flange and housing is to small for a long stud.

 

Basically this. You want some thread exposed that way you have efficient engagement on the nut.

 

Falcon, what are the part numbers for those nissan studs? I would like to try them.

 

Sav, sounds like you have some good studs.... also. I am delighted, the more good parts around the better for all.

Corky
Am I too old for this?

 

I've had this issue as well, having to cut studs. When I bought my plain jane 10 mm's, they worked ok cause I got the right length.

 

Any tips on taking this out besides drilling?

 

Hit it with your choice of penetrating oil for a couple days(I've found Kroil works best for me). Heat is also your friend, a few heat/cool/kroil cycles with a propane torch can work wonders. Take the downpipe loose (enough to pull it a few inches away from the turbo) and grab the stub with a stud puller or some vice grips.

 

It appears that the bolt goes all the way through, in which case i would spray some PB blaster on it the night before (cold, obviously) and take a pair of small vice grips and turn it counter clock wise till the threads appeared on the dp side. Continue using vice grips till you remove the entire thing.

If that does work, or if you cant fit a small set of vice grips in there, yank the dp and use vice grips from the dp side. Done deal.

 

The downside to this is if you dick up the threads on the stud then drag them through the hole in the manifold and dick those threads up, you're screwed... literally.

 

Ahhh, didn't even think about that. Good to know.

Rennkafer>thesnowboarder

Now to get to sleep, gotta wrench on someone's miata tomorrow

 

Nah I've just been doing this longer... learned the hard way more times.

See you tomorrow morning, lots to do!

 

I always MIG'd a nut onto the broken stud and it comes out easy-like. Penetrating oil is a yes.

 

If you have the room that works pretty well, and welding the nut on counts as one of those "heat/cool" cycles I was talking about.

 

worked

 

The downpipe studs don't seem to back out or get loose, but they get INCREDIBLY brittle. I always use penetrating oil before even touching those nuts on a car that's seen track time. I've broken a lot of them in my own car.

 

Well count me in as an official subscriber to this thread.

Loud wooshing sound coming from the turbo area under boost, and the car has felt down on power lately - I had this problem ~6 months ago - the original greddy manifold bolts had become stretched and loose and wouldn't re-tighten, so I swapped them out for a forum member's suggestions:
ATP turbo studs and locking nuts and the FM lock washers
Did the miatas @ MRLS track day and an autocross and now, like I said, the same symptoms. Checked, and the nuts are loose - not only are the nuts loose, the studs are loose. I could spin the whole stud with my finger. Re-tightened them and all is well for now, but I'm sure that won't be the last of it.
-Ryan

 

Welcome to track life with a turbo. Sonny had success with my studs at MRLS.