If I build around GT2560 will log mani be a hindrance comp. to a SSM -also DP design?
12-09-2009, 12:29 PM
#21
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you're only leaving a little on the table with the cast manifold, while tim's manifolds are pretty much ideal, in your situation, you're probably best to snag a cast manifold and DP and just make it happen.
If you wanna pinch pennies, source a good SR20 T25 turbo, will perform like a GT2554.
'99 with one:
If you wanna pinch pennies, source a good SR20 T25 turbo, will perform like a GT2554.
'99 with one:
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12-09-2009, 12:39 PM
#22
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Yes, just need to get things going on my budget build- I havn't even had a ride in a non-normally aspirated Miata yet !!! (I have in a Viper ACR so i'm ok for now)
I really just need to get some boost!
This week we got a foot of snow and had mornings of -27C so even stock I am having wheel spin and it makes me not want to add any power or work on a car. I still keep watching the parts for sale forum so we'll see.
I really just need to get some boost!
This week we got a foot of snow and had mornings of -27C so even stock I am having wheel spin and it makes me not want to add any power or work on a car. I still keep watching the parts for sale forum so we'll see.
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12-09-2009, 01:01 PM
#23
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If I had to do it all over again, I'd go Absurdflow and v-bands everywhere. But I'm kind of serious about it. I track my car, I've broken studs before, etc.
For a street car and stock block, i would not bother myself.
For a street car and stock block, i would not bother myself.
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12-09-2009, 02:13 PM
#24
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Im pondering on the same thing. But I don't track the car like spooky and others on the forums, mostly autox. I'll probly end up with the original absurd manifold and bellmouth downpipe
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12-09-2009, 02:47 PM
#31
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I am the guy that is awaiting Tim's next absurdflow Vband setup and I can hardly wait to dry hump that thing. I also bought one of Abe's(Artech) 1.6L manifolds and donwpipes for MiniMe(my previous DD street/track car) as I decided to turbo it again after the engine is rebuilt. That said, I would not hesitate to get a log style manifold for street use. I would only go V band and tubular on a car that sees track use, or if I had too much munny
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12-09-2009, 04:38 PM
#35
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I think $400 is a good price for a manifold and the hardest part of the downpipe to make. There's no used absurdflow stuff because I haven't build many. it's just me in my garage in my spare time. I only sell stuff cheap when I build it w/o a buyer in mind then need the cash quick. I have a twin turbo setup for $1800 shipped in the classifieds It's not what you want in terms of quick spool unfortunately.
It's not what you want in terms of quick spool unfortunately.
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12-09-2009, 05:26 PM
#37
Yeah, Tim builds that. Here's what he built for me. Click the pictures in here for bigger versions:
Shore Motorsports: Fabrication & Installation
And here is one he built for Paul:
Part 1: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...aulBEGIdp5.JPG
Part 2: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...aulBEGIdp7.JPG
Shore Motorsports: Fabrication & Installation
And here is one he built for Paul:
Part 1: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...aulBEGIdp5.JPG
Part 2: http://www.shoremotorsports.com/pics...aulBEGIdp7.JPG
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12-10-2009, 04:42 PM
#39
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The tubular manifolds are fine. They work great, and help to provide lower end spool. But, they are not as reliable as the cast manifold.
The SSM is the BEGI-S kit with "S"tainless "M"anifold. Basically, a BEGI-S turbo kit with the S4 Manifold and downpipe. Parts from the cast manifold and stainless manifold are not interchangeable. If you are not tracking the car, do not worry about the studs stretching.
Stephanie
The SSM is the BEGI-S kit with "S"tainless "M"anifold. Basically, a BEGI-S turbo kit with the S4 Manifold and downpipe. Parts from the cast manifold and stainless manifold are not interchangeable. If you are not tracking the car, do not worry about the studs stretching.
Stephanie
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