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... and on my 3rd attempt, an SE

 
Old 05-01-2018, 09:15 PM
  #21  
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I'm happy with 900/500 on the street. For hefty NB's stiffer springs with current gen Xida's aren't really an issue.
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Old 05-02-2018, 09:25 AM
  #22  
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Yeah Mobius, they're 1st gen though, and I don't know if the valving has been tweaked 'because racecar'. One way to find out though ... the worst that can happen is that they come off again, in which case I might be talking to you about those springs Lachy.

Thanks for that link Lachy, I just can't get over the price differences for a pressure sensor compared to a temperature one but I just have to bite the bullet.

I HAVE a hoist. It's a lazy bastard though, just lays there on it's side ... Currently doing a bit of housekeeping there to tidy the floor in prep for getting it up, finally found the instructions which set out the measurements for bolting down the base so I am pretty much good to go. The hoist is a two post I got for a good price from a deceased estate and it will make a big difference, what with decent lighting now, a gas space heater and the walls and roof fully lined with R2 insulation. When I have it operational I might put a post in the sheds thread, but they are palaces there ...

I am going to have to watch myself driving this thing. I have a 'favourite' roundabout, and I went through it so fast today that I passed a string of traffic in the left lane on the exit, I must have been a blur to them. Almost legal, but the speed differential made it seem like they were stopped, and if Plod had been watching ... it could have been a bad day. I need to get back on the track real bad. Or maybe just drive the Falcon wagon more.
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Old 07-01-2018, 07:47 AM
  #23  
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There has been a bit happening lately, had first track day and got into low/mid 11s at Wakefield (~2sec off the racecar's best), it is certainly a very different beast to the racecar! Brakes didn't seem to be confidence-inspiring, but at least I got some seat time.

Also, very pleased that it sailed through rego inspection with the 3in DP-to-tip exhaust, I was expecting to have to change it but though I would roll the dice, so that was a pleasant surprise.

Second track day! Down to 1:10.0, a few tenths off the racecar time. I might have got there but the piping to the air filter was pulling off the filter neck, probably due to a failed LH engine mount. Rather than risk things further, I called it quits.

Flat through the kink, ~170kmh, ...



... then hard braking for T2.


This time the car was much more planted, the brakes seemed much better, and when the tail began to come out, it was easily managed. Since nothing has changed on the car since its first track outing, I think it was the driver getting more confident, and more familiar with the car around the limit.

Now to get cracking on some of the bits that I have stockpiled for the car, oil cooler, ducting, bushes ....
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Old 10-02-2018, 04:56 AM
  #24  
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Car is currently up on the stands, lots happening.

Radiator is out, oil cooler mounted and single fan substituted for the twins. No pics for this atm.

Ducting is now pretty complete, still needs some tape/foam, but the structure is there. Stock the gaps around the radiator are ginormous, especially between the bottom of the rad and the plastic tray. Running the AC makes things a little tricky, and the IC piping is a pain.

Sealing to the crash bar and under the front garnish - (still a work in progress here):

The bottom bit mates with the back of the plastic crash bar. The aluminium angle sits inside/below the aluminium section of the front garnish.

This photo shows the the plastic crash bar in place, and the plastic trim shaped to fit on top of the two side pieces to hold the foam sealing strips:

Aluminium tape and adhesive backed foam will provide the finishing touches.

Being a pen pusher by trade, aluminium angle in various shapes and sizes are my go-to ...

This shows the front plate which will seal against the nosecone bulkhead, and the zigzag sections going back as far as the radiator sides.

Now I need to make a trip to the rubber store for the sealing strips, and the job will be pretty complete.

Next, catchcanning ...



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Old 10-23-2018, 07:23 AM
  #25  
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Valve cover completed, now with one SS scourer instead of the copper. Intercooler painted black. radiator and oil cooler ready to go in, oh wait, the nipples don't fit, order and wait for new nipples but decide to test fit with the supplied -12 nipples - one of them binds in the thread , turns out the anodising penetrated the thread of the cooler fitting, obstructing it. After a bit of to and fro, PWR offer a new cooler, hopefully here tomorrow.

In the meantime all the bushes are out of the spare suspension arms - rattlegun FTW! I have trial fitted the bushes (only) in the RUCAs, and devised a fix for the problem of the surplus hole. I don't know if others see this as an issue, but my OCD kicked in and ...

This was evident in the racecar delrin bushes, I can't remember what I did about it, but as road car, this time I needed a proper fix. The bushes need greasing (mainly to keep our debris which causes accelerated wear), but when the grease goes in, this surplus hole in the bushing housing allows the grease to escape, and potentially, debris to enter.

This shows the drilled out and tapped hole, the 8mm grub screw used to seal it, and the bushing (half):


The job almost completed - grub screw inserted, half of the bushing in place (note the rough recess for the screw):


Job done!


Note1, if you are doing this, unless you create a recess the bushes will not want to go all the way home, and this will likely cause difficulty when replacing the arms in their housings. I solved this by drilling out the hole to accommodate the grub screw with the bushes in place, drilling the bushes at the same time.

Note2, some thread locker will be in order to ensure the grub screws do not loosen and fall out.

Last edited by Gee Emm; 10-23-2018 at 07:24 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 10-30-2018, 04:56 PM
  #26  
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Progress has been slow, but the spare arms are now sporting the PU bushes, the sleeves are stockpiled, the knuckle sleeves are being drilled for 12mm camber adjusters (Thanks for holding my hand Sean ), now I need to find my centre punch to start drilling the holes for the grease nipples.

The existing suspension is out on three corners, the fourth is well advanced. Turns out the car has been fitted with poly bushes, and so for science I tried to remove a couple of the steel pins. Fortunately I had a 5lb hammer and so I was eventually successful. So much for poly bushes, these hadn't even had any grease nipples to give some comfort that the steel pins might be rotating in the bush as they are supposed to. On closer examination, the ends of the pins look nice and shiny, I think that the pins and bushes were rigid with the bush housing, and were rotating around the bolt holding them in the chassis mount

If only that was the worst discovery! Most alarming was the state of the RH FLCA balljoint: The bolt in the bottom shock mount was loose, and had unscrewed itself about 20mm, allowing the BJ to rotate about the through bolt. The only thing stopping it from coming right out was the bottom mount of the shock absorber which was preventing it from any further unscrewing.




Also unsettling was the ease at which the bolts securing the brake callipers to the uprights came out - the rattle gun did not even activate the anvils, just 'whoosh' and they were out .

The PO was good enough to leave on the windscreen the sticker from a local suspension shop, who presumably did the bushes, and who will never be seeing any of my money.
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Old 12-20-2018, 04:53 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Gee Emm View Post
...
In the meantime all the bushes are out of the spare suspension arms - rattlegun FTW! I have trial fitted the bushes (only) in the RUCAs, and devised a fix for the problem of the surplus hole. I don't know if others see this as an issue, but my OCD kicked in and ...

This was evident in the racecar delrin bushes, I can't remember what I did about it, but as road car, this time I needed a proper fix. The bushes need greasing (mainly to keep our debris which causes accelerated wear), but when the grease goes in, this surplus hole in the bushing housing allows the grease to escape, and potentially, debris to enter.

This shows the drilled out and tapped hole, the 8mm grub screw used to seal it, and the bushing (half):


The job almost completed - grub screw inserted, half of the bushing in place (note the rough recess for the screw):


Job done!


Note1, if you are doing this, unless you create a recess the bushes will not want to go all the way home, and this will likely cause difficulty when replacing the arms in their housings. I solved this by drilling out the hole to accommodate the grub screw with the bushes in place, drilling the bushes at the same time.

Note2, some thread locker will be in order to ensure the grub screws do not loosen and fall out.
Only because I never asked, I never knew that grease nipples could be had in 8mm thread ... so now I have a collection of straight and 90* 8mm nips to both fill the surplus hole, AND grease the bushes. They will have to wait for the new year now, but I will report on what locations these can be used.

Happy Christmas everyone!!
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Old 04-26-2019, 06:25 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Gee Emm View Post
.


The bottom bit mates with the back of the plastic crash bar. The aluminium angle sits inside/below the aluminium section of the front garnish.
Oops! Don't do it this way, there is a section of the nose clip that needs to fit in around the corner of the headlights, and this configuration prevents that.

I flipped the right-angle sections over, and that provided the necessary clearance easily. The centre section doesn't need any change.

Car is on the trailer, goes into the shop on Monday for a tune for the Skunk and a few other minor updates, including upgrading the Autronic to improve its performance running the alternator.
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